You need something called a PiStix adapter to use plane escs generally. The thr signals are different from car radios vs air.

But honestly, if this is your first BL, I would say not to try and go too cheap and make things way to complicated and possibly unreliable. Buy cheap=buy twice.

I highly recommend just getting a Castle 2200kv combo and running that on 4 to 6S. IDK how big/hvy the truck is, but if its really heavy you may want to use a Neu 1521 instead.
The 2200 should be fine tho. Best off is the great warrantee, powerful software, and awesome service. IDK where you live, but do you really want to send a $100 esc halfway around the world for service BC you bought some knockoff esc from China?

ESC brakes are great, plus you get reverse. Reverse is really nice to have. You can get mech brakes, Ive done that, but its not worth a lot of trouble, esp if you are just bashing about.

You don't need a 2spd. A center diff is nicer to have and a BL motor does not more gears to be fast. RCM's slipperential is really nice, plus it gives a little low end slip plus some protection to the drivetrain from the low end TQ an elec motor has. If you can swing this, I would. It should fit about anywhere a std CD does.

5s on a CC 2200 should push that truck around just fine.

2 speeds and electrics don't really play well together. Either lock it into one gear or the other or replace it with a CD.

ESC braking is very nice to have but can also cause issues if you are doing lots of hard braking (especially with subpar batteries). I ran 4s Maxamps 8000s in my Muggy with a MMM and hard braking toasted it after just a few hours of total use. Airplane ESCs are very cheap in comparison to a car ESC but they aren't built as tough (which is why they can't handle proper ESC braking). I wouldn't mind building a truck that runs on mechanical brakes because I almost never use the brakes and air ESCs are so much cheaper. Bear in mind that mechanical brakes experience brake fade, ESC braking builds up heat in the ESC but it's manageable and you don't lose braking performance.

yeah the center diff is a must.
i also have been looking at lipo packs
ZIPPY Flightmax are really cheap in price. what do u guys think abt them..?

Zippy Flightmaxes are good performance for the money. I have run normal Zippy, Turnigy, and Rhino lipos and they all perform well for what you pay. The quality control and pack construction is subpar but for the price how can you complain? Hyperion G3 lipos are very good packs and are still reasonably priced.

alright thanks need to start looking for a charger =]

edit: what do u guys think abt this charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...OS0606I&cat=19

Great charger, for what you get it's good value as well. I have the predecessor (the 5i) and it has been going strong for 3-4 years and has been used literally thousands of times without error.

nope, never needed a pistix for those plane esc's, running them with my 40mhz fm acoms Hayabusa.

and again, the "suppo-style" esc's I had were very rugged. they all say, they're not reliable, their acceleration is bad etc. I have never experienced something like that. The breaks are just on/off, like an anchor. So that should be killing the esc when breaking, but it didn't. start-up on 1 deg. timing with the losi 4-pole is smoother then sae-car-esc I've testet recently (but I think they just did an updat on the software). with 7 deg. timing no cogging at all.

On the other hand: I used to have a "scorpion Commander 6s120a", and when changing the settings (after the first 3 batteries), it smoked, just during programming. And it's supposed to be a "quality brand". some folks here in Germany smoked MGM controllers (obsiosly used them right), and waited months for a replacement. but it's a "quality brand". We see, Marketing can do a lot...

Mech. & "electronic" Breaks have their pro's and con's, so U have to find out what is important for you. A con for mechanical breaks is for example the extra weight. on the other hand, most of the 1/5, 1/6 conversions work like that.

anyways, I don't want to hype these cheap plane esc's.

but just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap.

^^^

That's all well and good, but my general point is that I don't think they are a good option as a first intro into large scale BL conversions.

For a beginner, its better to get something proven, reliable and more common. All with good customer support. You don't want to be fighting your setup because you bought it too cheaply, or such a strange setup there are few people availble to help you when trouble arises.

The Castle system fits all those specs, plus a low price. If the OP is in the US, I can't see any reason why you'd want to get something different. Repair service is quick and shipping is fast and cheap. Once somebody gets experienced with electrics, then they may want to try something different and more unique (not that its better neccessarily.) Last thing you want to do is get something strange and overly complicated as a beginner, have problems few know how to fix, get frustrated and quit electrics altogether.

yeah and i don't like getting frustrated!! hahah
going to start striping the mammoth.
thanks for all the help guys.

hi I have just converted my mammoth, with an kb45 10xl runing on 6s, it is very very powerful, i need to change the diffs for the diffs of the xtm mmt because the stock diffs on the mammoth are very bad for that motor..... I do all things for the conversion on CF and it is very strenght.... I want to change a few things, better shocks, but only 4, an rollcage and tower post for the back..... Can anyone recommend me a good shocks for that truck? and a rollcage?
two pics....
http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/DSCF4082.jpg
http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/DSCF4083.jpg

how long would the stock diff work for?
this truck is pretty new used like 3 times .
any videos? =]

were did you get the mounts??

looks like he made them

yoo mikeee help me out with some mounts

...?