Originally Posted by rchippie (Post 336208)

FASTXR
I use lipo as well . I just use the 4 cell gtb because it fits my car in the middle behind the battery & in FR of the motor . I also noticed some of the oval guys were removing the case & just using heat shrink like the BK'S did .

Originally Posted by FastXR (Post 336222)

Ah the 4 cell version of the GTB, I miss read what you said earlier, makes sense that would be a nice light setup and cheaper than buying the 6 cell version.

Originally Posted by castlemike (Post 336235)

Yes we will be releasing a limited amount of 1 cell specific Mamba Max Pro's with the next production run. If there is enough of a demand we will make more in the future. They will come with solder posts instead of motor wires and there will be no fan.

Originally Posted by BrianG (Post 336238)

Interesting. Just curious, what mods/steps are needed to turn a regular MMPro into a 1s version? Not that I plan to, just would be nice to know (and yes, I know it voids the warranty). :whistle:

Of course, you probably won't want to divulge this to avoid bogus warranty claims...

Originally Posted by rchippie (Post 336239)

Is it possible to pre order the 1s esc or do i have to have my friends hobby shop pre order one ?. He is a authorized castle dealer in tampa fl .

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 336244)

Should be able to do either. However, you (and your dealer) will have to wait until we have all the part numbers in the system -- you can't order until that is done.

Thanx!

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 336244)

Should be able to do either. However, you (and your dealer) will have to wait until we have all the part numbers in the system -- you can't order until that is done.

Thanx!

Originally Posted by ta_man (Post 336136)

I don't think it is Rds(on), I think it is C.H.E.A.T. mode.

Originally Posted by BrianG (Post 336218)

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.

Originally Posted by What's_nitro? (Post 336264)

Well CHEAT mode advances the timing, right? That causes the motor to draw huge amounts of current compared to normal timing, right? Low Rds(on) allows more current to flow and for that current to rise more quickly, right?

Haha, yeah I know we're both right... :mdr:

Originally Posted by castlemike (Post 336235)

Yes we will be releasing a limited amount of 1 cell specific Mamba Max Pro's with the next production run. If there is enough of a demand we will make more in the future. They will come with solder posts instead of motor wires and there will be no fan.

Originally Posted by BrianG (Post 336218)

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.