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Okay, here is the deal;
the bottom of the esc is carrying some SMD parts, they can come off, if you mount it on a hard surface. Which might be the case.. I don't know how handy you are in terms of soldering, and a don't know what will happen to the warranty if you remove the shrink or weld it yourself. does it rattle when you shake it? Contacting Mike is the best thing to do in this case imo |
It doesn't rattle. I'll contact Mike. Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it.
JB |
The no foam may have damamged it. It don't sound good. Make sure the motor wires have not come loose on the board. I have had that happen to one.
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I mount all my BL speed controls on velcro & zipties so it can float a little bit.
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velcro is a good mounting platform. It provides some "padding". If you want, send it on back my way and I will have a look. Running 18 cells through it without removing the BEC jumper wasn't a great idea, really(controller's bec is only rated for 12 cells). You should also get yourself a real receiver pack or a UBEC. The 4AA batteries is not doing your system justice(you have a decent radio and brushless system, so you may as well scrap the weak link).
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I had a problem with mine where there wasn't any protection below the 9918, and a SMD part literally broke. That rendered it useless, even for Mike.
P.S., Mike, any chance that you have any more information on that controller of mine? :) |
Your controller is fixed, but it is somehwere out in la la land with my motors. When you see the xl motors back in stock, I should have your controller at the same time. :)
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You should add that on the page for the 9920: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=9920warrior It said 3A BEC, didn't state a limit so I was expecting to be able to run the BEC on 6S lipo......:032: |
The BEC limitations are in the instructions. There is a link to the PDF instructions in the listing, for those looking to find out all they need to know before the purchase. Of course, these forums will provide more information than you can process as well. :)
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Why are the AAs so bad? They dont need to be able to put out a whole lot of amps. I plan to get a good Rx pack ASAP, but don't have money right now. Do you think I damaged anything with the 18 cells and BEC? It was running after I got done doing that. I'll send it back soon. Thanks.
JB |
The controller is powered by the 4 AA's and the steeringservo can take a lot of power from them. the ESC takes his share too.
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I'm just trying to follow along here and am a little confused.
When you say you were running AA's, does that mean NiCD/MH, or regular Alkalines? IIRC alkalines have a steady dicharge curve so the voltage drops steadily as they are discharged. Plus, they don't like high currents too much as opposed to NiCD/MH. Second, were you running the built-in BEC at the same time as the AA's? The Warrior manual says you can run an Rx pack to help bolster the BEC for higher currents (I personally wouldn't do this), but not if those AA's are Alkaline. |
Yes... the AAs are alkaline. I know NiMhs are better and I really wish I had some, but I dont have $20 for a pack. And yea, I ran it w/ the BEC because the manual said it was good to do that.
JB |
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