I am sure you guys will do a good job getting a decent center drive setup in there. Losi are a bit weird sometimes, but all of the products I have from them were/are great, save for the mlst (crap). Have fun with it.

A few more pics for those interested:

The center diff. A neat thing is that the bearing fits over the outdrive. I can't tell you how many times I put a diff together only to forget to put the bearing on! Arrrgg! You can also see how the spur is shaped. You can also see how the diff mount (left one) has a spacer. The bearing dimensions are 18mm OD, 12mm ID, and 4mm thick:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/losi_ten_3.jpg


A shot showing the differences in pitch between Mod1.0 and 32p/Mod0.8:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/losi_ten_4.jpg


And a shot showing how much room there is on this thing, even with a large motor and battery. The battery is sitting against the dirt guard, but not on it. You can also see how the dirt guard mounting screw would interfere with the motor. So, the motor will have to be raised a bit:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/losi_ten_5.jpg

I do like the diff design...Brian I know how you feel about forgetting to put the bearing on the center diff..did it last week..wish all manufactures followed this lead.

Someone in a previous post asked to see the Ten compared to a buggy. Well, here's one showing the size difference. The one on the far left is a Ofna Hyper 8 buggy, the far right is an Xray XT8.

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/losi_ten_6.jpg

I believe I asked Brian, thanks for the pics. I am liking the length. Basically 1/8 length and as you stated, plenty of room for everything. Basic platform looks to be better than the Jammin and Ofna IMO, but, time will tell. Are the shocks 1/8 scale...hard to tell

Shocks are 12mm diameter and shorter than 8th scale. Just looks like they are scaled down properly. Sometime, I may replace them with regular 8th scale shocks to get a little more suspension height and to have a "big bore" look (at least relative to the truck :smile:).

Another upgrade I'd like Losi to release is an adjustable rear toe plate. The rear has too much toe-in for me since I bash mostly. The stock toe plate is just a piece of metal with a hole for the pin - no plastic insert so you can adjust them. Besides, with the toe-in as far as it is (in the rear), the shocks are not at a vertical front-to-rear angle. Reducing toe-in will bring the tires a little further back and make the shocks align better.

Sorry to be a pest..how does the steering assembly look as far a durability.

Steering assembly looks solid. Very little "play", and I don't see anything obviously weak. Typical 8th scale setup, just a tad smaller for 10th scale.

The only thing I can say (and it's minor) is that the linkage from the servo horn to the bellcrank is at a decent angle. The servo horn is higher than most servos I've seen, which would make the difference. The only reason why it sits so high is so that the linkage clears the servo case on either end of the throw; a longer arm would solve that. But like I said, that's a very minor thing and not worth even looking at TBH.

Unrelatedly; another thing I just noticed is that the front/rear diffs, being helical cut, are very quiet when spun. If a plastic spur is used on this thing, it could make for a VERY quiet running conversion.

Well, I created my own rear toe plate out of some 6061-T6 yesterday. The stock plate is steel, so I hope the aluminum version holds up. My version is not as pretty, but I definitely like the way it looks better; the a-arms are not as swept forward, less rear shock angle (front-to-rear), pushes the rear tires back about 4-5mm, and decreases the toe-in. The hinge pin holes were moved in a hair less than 2.5mm on each side.

Send me the steel one when you send the car, Brian - I will make a nice machined one with less rear toe(and adjustable inserts if it isn't too big a PITA) when I make the motor mount and spur gear solution. :)

Cool beans Mike!

I just want to be clear: The rear toe IS capable of being adjusted in stock form via the rear hubs according to the manual. But I more wanted to address the fact that, for my taste, the angle of the a-arms was too far forward and therefore the shock angle was off. Making a rear toe-plate addressed this. But if someone simply wanted to adjust the toe, that can be done currently via the wheel hubs.

I don't know, I like the idea of a beefier bearing more than I like the simplicity of being able to slide it over the outdrive.

you're not going to run a tekno adapter and losi's mod .? clutchbells?:lol:

Is that a very cleverly made balance tap protector I spy on your battery?

I like that idea very much and am stealing it.

True, but this is a relatively light 10th scale don't forget. The bearing is bigger than a CRT.5 IIRC, and they weight pretty darn close.

No, no tekno adaptor. Although, that would be a simple solution to the odd gear pitch issue. But, I'd rather have a gear setup that I can get at my LHS...

lol, all my packs use a similar thing. Keeps the dirt out of the connector.

To be honest in the 1/10 scale electric is by far king.. I question why losi brought it out as a nitro other than to start a 'new' class such as Traxxas did w/ the slash. But with the price tag I don't see it getting big any time soon, but who knows. I think at the very least they should have dropped an e-version out at the same time, I mean losi has pretty well lead the way w/ the 1/8 ebuggies to this point.

A side note Brian.. It looks like you could just bolt on a tekno motor mount with long shank pinion and be done w/o any mods other than a couple screw holes.. just a thought :)