I used the mugen titanium screw kits and was not impressed at all. They must only be 0.00000000000000000000001% titanium
However, i think it is a great truggy, i just finished testing mine with on 5s with a 1521 1Y:party: might see how gearing up a tooth or two and 6s go:whistle:

Any update on this one? You got the steering posts??

ps. no plans for alu (or something) chassis braces?

still waiting for motor mount as there has been some USPS mess. rest of the car is complete

BCE chassis is quite rigid so no need for alu braces. Been using plastic ones also on my BCE 5T.

I have the King headz alu braces front and rear on mine and it seems really good. I never ran it with the stock plastic ones though. Without them you can flex the standard chassis by hand

chassis flex is a good thing . it makes car more agile. it is always about finding a balance in handling.

small update - eliteRCD motor mount.
I will be using Mike's battery tray and it has been shipped today so one more week before I can finish everything

http://img.rcx.cz/motor2.jpg

There is one big issue I have with the motor mount - it just leaves motor too high for my taste raising CG so I may end up using Mike's mount even though Brandon's mount makes maintenance and gear mesh much easier. However I have high quality L shaped hex wrenches so I can live with standard Mike's mount

http://img.rcx.cz/motor1.jpg

For those wondering why I use MBX5 center diff top plate:

Reason 1 - My cat ate my MBX6 mount :)
Reason 2 - I will use piece of carbon as receiver mount and mbx5 plate will make routing cables easier.

Those heatsinks on Neu are there just for looks as motor runs cool even without them and they are just +4grams and match the servo horn :)

Wallot,

Curious how you've found the aluminum drive cups to work (not sure if you ran them on your MBX5T setup)?

Picked up a set for my racer and hoping they hold together reasonably well. Clearly a nice light setup with regards to the rotating mass of the driveline. Hoping it actually translates to quicker spool, less heat, less driveline loss.

Truck looks great. I'll agree, I prefer Mikes mount for the lower CG. I'm omitting using Mike's servo tray (like you have) so I can mount my transponder/Rx lower in the chassis. Need to see how it works out.

Curious what gearing your running? I went with 16/46 with my Tekin 1700kv setup. I'll be running this on Hyperion 5S (still working on capacity).

Aluminum drivetrain parts work great on my friend's nitro buggy no wear at all so i am giving them a try.

gearing will be 46/16 with 14-17 pinions available, 1700kv neu 5s
4000mah for 10minute runs
I can make 10 minutes with 3300 but it is pushing battery to the limit and car is very light that sometimes I fight with traction so I used to run 5000mah just for the added weight (on my old mbx5-t)

JC punisher and Proline Bulldog to match my buggy theme

http://img.rcx.cz/t2.jpg
http://img.rcx.cz/b2.jpg

You really need an additionnal heat sink with a motor that torque ?? Or you simply want to gear it for 80 mph ? ^^

Those bodies are sweeeet !!

read my posts they are just for a bling :)

Hey Wallot, what charger are you using?


Trying to find a charger to handle my 4200mah Hyperions.....

Thx.

I have several chargers:

good old Hyperion 1210i with LBA10 balancer
icharger 106B

and now new Raytronic C60 which is a clone of Fusion Emperor 702b made for local RC distributor for 2/3 of the price :) - Integrated balancer, dual outputs 2x300W of charging power. $200 for dual charger :)

Thanks for the information.

I need to pick up something more substaintial here. I'd love a single 300W setup at least for my racing needs.



How do you like the ichanger 106? Seems like it's pretty full feature (only charging my LiPo's) for reasonable cost plus has decent power. I'm only charging my Hyperion S5 4200's with this so LiPo only.