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hahaha. well put.
here is a pic that is a bit larger for those that wanted a closer look. http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...-newbuggy1.jpg |
That one is cool and all, but I would rather have the first one you posted, with the nylon parts and the clear body...it's more bashable, the one above is just a "looker" and would get bent up under severe 1/5 bashing.
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seriousloy that outrunner and the cells you will need - did the spread sheet power to weight ratios etc - it adds 33% mass to the stock car and its power levels start to look pretty lame and it is VERY innefficient at the amps te car will run at most of the time - but then at 2.3kg its a hell of a heat sink.
If you can change direction smaller motorswill do the job better and not require the sort of strengthening the proposed motor will require. It will be quicker and more nimble . |
After reading a bit more, I am probably going to use the layout Ryu James used on his Rampage conversion. Outrunners look cool but the inefficiency, heat and the fact they dont like to be dirty makes them a hindrance IMO. Now I need to find a suitable motor/esc/battery combo that wont break the bank. Looks like more research for me :D
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maybe you should just get a Neu 2215 from offshoreelectrics.com for $425 and then a Castle HV 110. that would put you just over the $600 mark and then you can have my CNC'd motor mount and spur gear for cheap. i will pm you price. it would be a sick buggy but you almost need to wait to get it before dropping coin or doing too much. |
obeast,
just a couple of quotes to consider from the forums as i have been reading more on 1/5 conversions: "Neu, Plett, Lehner and Castle are the only guys with viable 1/5 inrunners I know about" "I did a lot of testing with the 1717 motor and found that the top speeds are right about the same as with the stock gas motor, but the acceleration is much better." that quote is with a baja conversion which weighs 28lb. it might do well on a 20lb conversion and could certainly reach that 40mph mark. but, if the buggy weighs 20lb now its likely to weigh a couple pounds more after redcat does their improvements to it. |
The lighter setup will serve you much better. A great motor with a 12 cell single series pack will only weigh 2.1 kg and give much more power and much better power to weight and 12-20 minute runtime depending on gearing.
The Neu 1917 variant I sell has 8mm shaft and fan and runs approx 18500 on 10 cells (5.2hp peak) or 23000 on 12 (8.5hp peak) - they weigh approx 1.1lbs. They run cool with bucket loads of power and cost $249. I recommend a sock or a open cell foam filter for motor cooling. You can use cheap esc like the turnigy 200 and moderate rate cells - at least 30C cont and have a fast relaible car. |
Got a link to that motor? That motor sounds like itd be plenty powerful for what I need. Especially on 12s.
I was originally thinking of using 4 of the 6s 5800mah 30c packs from hobbycity. I know 4 of those things would weigh a lot, but the 40 minutes of runtime is absolutely critical. When racing I cant afford to change batteries while the gassers can just keep running. The extra weight in batteries is a sacrifice id be willing to make. |
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here is two thunder power 10s packs 5000mah for $136. normally $500 packs. if you had 10s packs and want to parallel you could saddle pack them on the chassis. just a thought. would look cleaner and might be easier to keep locked down than four packs floating around. this would give you 10s 10000mah.
http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=9837 |
The 6s 5800mah 30c packs are small enough I can squeeze 4 of them in. Wired in series and parallel for 12s 11600mah. Unless I can find some 12s 5kmah packs somewhere. Those 10s packs are nice but honestly I dont know if theyd fit. Man I need to get my grubby hands on a test sample :)
@AndrewG Im curious to know more about this motor. I think Ryu James interest is peaked as well :) |
The location of the 1900 ZR is
http://www.fastelectrics.com/blmotors1.asp and scroll to the 1900ZR. Ignore the cooling jacket. A couple of things;from the data logs most cars actually run low average power levels. Typically spikes hit 110-140 (6.5-8hp) but the average is around 15-20 amps. Petrol vs electric - no brainer electric comes out of turns so hard because the car has a torque to weight ratio double a petrol motor, and it takes less than 0.05 seconds to arrive versus waiting for a petrol motor to spool up. That also means it hits top speed sooner so your approach to a corner is smoother because its a constant speed, not still accelerating. Before you settle on cell count and capacity I recommend a data logger. For $90 you will know all about the power system and how it is going work. The economy you can find using 12 cells + shorter ratio vs 10 cells + taller ratio and other options like, cell heating, ESC operating frequency, timing, throttle exponentials, bearings, different tyre and wheel combos is stunning. BTW dont be fooled by cheap cells. In bashing the difference is invisible in racing the difference will be apparent as soon as someone uses a better cell. Better cells have more actual capacity available, higher voltage, and hold up a lot better int he second half of the discharge. Another reason to get the logger as the differences are real and try just one pack at a time and work up. BTW quick release packs are not that hard to figure and you will be miles ahead. :-) |
Looks like this project wont be happening, they are releasing an electric version, so I will just buy it and swap out the motor/esc. Heres a vid:
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