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-   -   Insight into 2350 Flux equipment? (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27745)

Pdelcast 08.12.2010 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scarletboa (Post 376595)
wait; so this motor is LONGER than the standard flux motor? why is the kv higher?

Cheaper magnets... :) Kv goes up with lower power magnets.

nuz69 08.12.2010 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 376594)
The endbell screws are exactly the same as on the 1515 motor -- never seen one broken -- ever. Just we used them on both the front and back of the motor to lower costs (the front-endbell screws moutns on the 1515 are really expensive to machine -- lots of time on the CNCs)

It is the same screws of the REAR endbell I meant, the front endbell on the NEU-CC 1515/1y has stronger screws longitudinally mounted. I thought you change the system on the 1:10 scale motors for this reason, sorry.
I broke a motor front endbell with this system (ORION 2300Kv 4 poles), but the motor was hold by the front endbell, if in the HPI chassis the motor is mounted with front and rear fixation they should be no problem...

Pdelcast 08.12.2010 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuz69 (Post 376599)
It is the same screws of the REAR endbell I meant, the front endbell on the NEU-CC 1515/1y has stronger screws longitudinally mounted. I thought you change the system on the 1:10 scale motors for this reason, sorry.
I broke a motor front endbell with this system (ORION 2300Kv 4 poles), but the motor was hold by the front endbell, if in the HPI chassis the motor is mounted with front and rear fixation they should be no problem...

Also, the front end-bell is glued in place, so there shouldn't be any issues. :whistle:

Freezebyte 08.12.2010 03:46 PM

Awesome, thanks Patrick!


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...pplause323.gif

nuz69 08.12.2010 06:09 PM

I am very happy with Castle Stuff, but I had a bad experience with one of this lateral screw on my 1520/1Y :

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7789/screwed.jpg

brushlessboy16 08.12.2010 06:42 PM

looks like you over tightened it and had the screw head pop off. Could have been a defect in the screw

nuz69 08.12.2010 06:51 PM

It happened when I tried to unscrew it, there is blue loctite in here I think, pretty tough to unscrew it. I will be annoyed when I will have to change the rear bearing next 2 or 3 year :lol:

Duster_360 08.12.2010 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 376593)
The ESC is a Mamba Max Pro, HPI special version.



What is it that limits the 2350 to just 4S then - MMP is 6S rated??

Pdelcast 08.12.2010 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duster_360 (Post 376624)
What is it that limits the 2350 to just 4S then - MMP is 6S rated??

Rated to 4 cells in the Savage -- the 4 cell rating is specific to that application.

bruce750i 08.13.2010 10:47 AM

From the picture it looks like the Q-base esc has solder tabs on the power input.?

Pdelcast 08.13.2010 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruce750i (Post 376682)
From the picture it looks like the Q-base esc has solder tabs on the power input.?

good point -- that is a difference. HPI wanted solder posts on the battery inputs.

suicideneil 08.13.2010 01:42 PM

Cool, thanks for all the info Patrick, answers alot of questions guys were asking on a few forums that I've seen. :yes:

Semi Pro 08.13.2010 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 376594)
The endbell screws are exactly the same as on the 1515 motor -- never seen one broken -- ever. Just we used them on both the front and back of the motor to lower costs (the front-endbell screws moutns on the 1515 are really expensive to machine -- lots of time on the CNCs)

i have never broken one myself, they always strip before you can do that:lol:

Pdelcast 08.13.2010 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Semi Pro (Post 376702)
i have never broken one myself, they always strip before you can do that:lol:

Be aware -- those are TORX screws, not hex screws -- if you use a hex driver, you might strip them...

simplechamp 08.13.2010 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pdelcast (Post 376688)
good point -- that is a difference. HPI wanted solder posts on the battery inputs.

I really like that the Q-base has all solder post connections. I wish the MMP was available in this configuration. It's nice to have the motor solder posts on the MMP 1-cell, but then you give up the fan and internal BEC, and the battery wires are still soldered to the board.

Is there any way to buy the Q-base as a stand-alone item? Contact HPI? Or look at the RC "chop shops" on Ebay?


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