The Flux has the motor in the back just like a nitro. It has its own specific TVP's I believe that allow the motor to fit. The savage in the pictures above is running GCM db17 TVP's which convert the truck into a 1/5 scale basically. The GCM also runs the motor in the rear. It looks like Bmr4life mounted the front end to the rear of the chassis, he did not rotate the transmission 180 degrees.

GCM DesertBoy chassis mounts the motor up front.

that makes a lot more sense. I was wondering how he got the front mount motor lol.

I am trying to make it fit the stock savage x tvp at this stage. I have it mocked up out of cardboard and seems like it will work but have to cut the tvp up a bit and add a bit on.


Anyone running the 1717 what batteries are you running and what sort of run time are you getting from it?

I have heard it is a bit of a pig for power but just wondering what mah batts and run time you are getting. Oh and what cell count. 6s, 5s, 4s etc.


Thanks

BTW, GCM sell a modded stock flux motor mount that will fit the 42mm diameter castle motors. I am guessing he just bores out the stock mounts, which are 39mm, to 42mm. Straight drop in for the flux, as long as the motor will fit lengthwise.

FYI and smooth can 15 series neu motor will fit the stock flux clamps. And any other 39mm diameter motor too.

Oops, my bad. Idk why but I always get confused with the Savage stuff, too many variations. I'll just shut up and listen now! Lol

ALZA-Racing has also some custom motormounts for Savage FLUX


Dejan

Haha, yes...i am waiting for one ;)

The 1520 will fit into the stock flux with a little bit of effort.

Step 1: The castle motors are 2mm bigger in diameter due to the fins, so you will need to sand down inside of motor mounts. I didn't take pictures of this step, but there is another post somewhere with pictures of this step. First thing to do here is slide the mount onto the end of the 1520 motor and scribe a very thin line around where the fins touch the mount with a hobby knife. This will show you exactly how much material must be removed. Then chuck up a ~1" sanding drum in your drill/ drill press and make several full passes around the inside of the mount, gradually removing material until you approach the scribe line. When you start to touch the line, do a test fit and then very gradually sand off more until you get a perfect snug fit. If you want to skip this step, GCM has done the work for you and sells a set of mounts that have already been milled to the correct size.

Step 2: Install the motor without the pinion and leave all the hardware a little loose so that you can slide the motor front to back in the mounts and side to side in the slots. Slide the motor all the way forward until the motor shaft is just touching the transmission box, then back it off ½ mm so it will not rub. Then lock the motor down in the mounts, but leave the mounts loose in the slots.

Step 3: Use the sanding drum to take off about 2mm of material from the part of the TVP that is preventing the motor from sliding all the way to the end of the stops. Just take off a little bit at a time until you have full adjustment. Shown below is a picture of a stock TVP next to the one I sanded down.
Attachment 9643

Step 4: Notch the battery box mount. Just need to take off about 1mm or so.

Step 5: Mount the pinion on the motor backwards, line it up with the spur and lock it down. With this mod, there will be no front to back motor adjustment, but if the pinion is aligned correctly and loctited down, this adjustment is never needed.

Step 6: Put it back together and enjoy your bigger badder motor! I love the 1520, it runs cool, gives a little more run time, and has more torque. I have run it hard in the sand for 15 min straight and could still hold my thumb on the motor. Never temped it over 130 deg.
Attachment 9642Attachment 9644Attachment 9645

Does anyone know if the FLM tranny foward motor mount will work with a 1717? Maybe takes a little grinding?

Thanks.