I posted it on the Traxxas forum. I thought I posted it here but it looks like I didn't, or I can't find it. Anyway, here it is.

http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...on_how_to1.mp4

No laughing at my ugly mug or my French accent :lol:

Use latex gloves from CVS... Personally I just use a dremel... Why make life harder than it needs to be.

A good router or dremel with a diamond cutting bit will get through the carbon fiber pretty well. If you tape up your cuts before you take them it should help with the ripping too.

Great vid MC. How did you fit a 1/8" bit into the router tho? Usually they are 1/4" at least. Do you have a better desc of the bit used? I see lots of diff styles

I like that idea of the table router. I've been making some parts, cutting the part out on the outside w/ a bandsaw, drilling holes w/ the drill press, but I've been trying to figure out how best to cut out the intricate center sections. I like this idea more than anything I've come up with so far. Very clean cuts too.

Cheap routers and router tables can be had for $25 bucks on CL. I have an used one that may work. I like this idea better than a dremel as its impossible for me to get very straight/clean cuts like that with a handheld rotary. The tool doesn't have a stable base, so always likes to pull to one side (let alone jump.) Too much fighting the tool for me. I'll leave it for cutting and grinding.




x2 on using tape for the edges. Works well on lots of cutting projects to not damage the edge (tho MC's look fine.)

I was referring to leather gloves as dangerous w/ power tools. Basically anything that will catch and get pulled in and take your hand with it. Thin nitrile/latex gloves don't count. ;)

I bought a multi tool at Canadian Tire a few years ago. It accepts 1/4'' shank bits but had this adapter to be able to use 1/8'' shank bits also so that's what I used on the router. I like to use this bit from Dremel. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme....aspx?pid=9903 for small parts that have small radius' and I have a larger carbide burr with a 1/4'' shank and 1/4'' cutting surface that does good work cutting around larger parts.

Looks like this adapter may work. Only $4 too. I may have to do this.

Yep, the one I used look a lot like that.

How well would your setup work for cutting 1/8" 6061 aluminum do you think?

I guess I like to do things the hard way because I just use a dremel with the guide, and this bit. I take a straight edge like a level or piece of spare aluminum angle stock, clamp it down, and use that as a "fence". I've never cut that long of a piece in one shot though, but sounds safer than a table saw.

I used the router table to work with aluminum and it would have been better with a different bit. The ones I have gum up and get packed quickly with chunks of aluminum. There are carbide burrs out there that are made to work with aluminum. I managed to use the bits I have with lots of WD40 as a lubricant but it was messy.

I'm anal and I want the cut to be 100% square and straight.

I was a framing carpenter by trade(disabled now) and grew up on a farm. I was running a table saw by 12. Table saws aren't "unsafe" to me!:intello:

A Saber saw (jig) works fine on aluminum, mild or stainless under 3/16" If your saw has a orbit (where the blade kicks forward on the up cut) disable it or it will kick back on you.

You can also use the roto zip style bits, and a dremel to cut aluminum. We use them a lot on 1/16" 6061 and 7075 aluminum. It cuts fast but can get out of hand if you don't use a guide.

Jeff