Couldnt really sleep last night as i have been getting excited about working on the savage again!

I am really determined to get this idea sorted.... everytime i make a little progress, i think of another problem that gets in the way... So here is where i am at. Please chime in.

OK SO FIRSTLY, something need to be taken into consideration.

The centre diff can not be raised any higher or drive shafts will hit on componants.

i worked out a way of possibly fitting the brake linkages and servo without getting in the way of my motor and pinion.

Here is the method i could use to mount it.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...brake1edit.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...brake2edit.jpg

At point B, i would obviously have the servo mounted standing and attached to the side of the TVP parallel to the motor. See image below for terrible diagram.

Instead of having the brake linkage assembly where it currently sits in the above images... i would have it on the opposite side (POINT C)... this would allow the motor to sit above point D.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...092308edit.jpg



But it looks like i will not be able to use my existing centre diff mounts if i cannot fit the hyper st carbon pro carbon diff plate linked below
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...IT#ht_500wt_997

Which means i would most likely go for the full centre diff and full brake assembly kit from an ST Pro linked below
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...c1#ht_500wt_997

It should hopefully be able to handle the brushless power without flexing i hope. I am just unsure whether or not the pinion on the motor will be able to reach the spur... If this is a problem, maybe a larger 52t spur will help ?

the reason i cannot use my existing mounts unless i do not necessarily have to mount the carbon top plate across all 4 posts as the motor pinion will not make contact with the spur. I had to chop one of the posts of so there was contact. As you can see in the pic below, the posts where the diff top plate attach too are quite tall. I had to cut the post as low as the screw hole where the pads attach to (hopefully you get one i mean) you should be able to notice this in the images below where the motor shaft sits in line with the diff mount posts...

http://www.rc-edit.com/graphics/part...d010131_01.jpg

SO THEN JUST AS I JUST ABOUT THOUGHT I HAD CRACKED IT... I RAN INTO ANOTHER PROBLEM!

Look at this image below which shows why one post has to be chopped for the pinion to meet the spur.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...203557edit.jpg


So another problem i noticed i would have...

If the brake discs were sitting on the diff outdrives at "E" in the above pic... THEY WOULD MOST CERTAINLY HIT THE CROSS BRACE JUST BELOW!

By how much... i dont know until i try... Maybe i could grind a little out but, if i do too much, it could make things weak...



YES LINC

I did have an idea to make a whole new centre diff mount plate, and move the centre diff all the way to one side and then mount the motor as low as possible in the chassis so the pinion meshs to the side of the spur rather than the top.
But this would cuase many problems...

I would need 2 new drive shafts as the distances would be increased slightly.

The motor would mount so low that the drive shaft would hit the motor clamps

The motor would mount so low that the steering servo horn would hit the motor (only just about clears it right now!)

The chassis would need a lot of work... i would need to mount another plate for the brake servo to mount too...

Sorry for the bad drawings, but i tried to make it as easy to understand and simple to see as possible




ALSO LINC I NOTICED YOU ARE SELLING AN ESC???
Do you think i could use it for my applications?
Does it have brake function?

Just curious, why not mount the batteries in a set of saddle holders on the outside of the plates? That would give you all the room inside the TVPs you need...

BTW: I like the way you did the brake setup in the pic below. You could go with an adjustable turnbuckle-style setup for the linkage so that the actuation is more centered.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...brake1edit.jpg

Could you rotate the CD mounts 90 degrees so that they would attach to the same TVP that the motor mount attaches to? Keeping the CD in the same position. This would allow the motor to mesh at the side of the CD mount where it is designed to and would free up the top of the mounts for the top plate and brake hardware. What I'm suggesting is using a standard truggy layout for CD and motor - but mounted vertically in your case instead of horizontally.

The esc I had is sold... Need to change the for sale thread.


What I am saying is that you need to make a new, longer plate for the center diff setup to mount, with the al braces (parts with the "E" on them) spaces farther away from the center diff bulks, thus giving you clearance for the brake disks. I like the servo idea, but you could easily do it the std way with the servo mounted outside the tvp and the linkage going thru the tvp cutout that the transmission originally occupied. You would need a top plate for the bulks, but a 3 point mount will be fine since you have al bulks and the pinion is in the way.

Simple is better!


Not sure if you need to do what you typed above, sounds way too complex.

BRIAN! Thank you!! That should work definitely...! Im going to try it and get back to you on the progress!!!

If you had to recommend an entire centre differential and brake set up OR piece together your ideal centre diff, STRONGEST Brake setup. What would you go for? I am new to centre diff mounts and braking systems.

Thanks

Edit

Linc, i have to cut a plate of alloy anyway... so i am going to look at both possibilities. I want to see which method allows easier fitment of the braking system.

Hopefully if i get this to work then i can settle with the ice hv 160amp...

What you did for the brake is probably the way I'd go about it to give me the most room. But usually, I just opt to use motor brakes so I get reverse too.

brian i cant use motor brakes because im wanting to use an ice hv 160 as i want to run 9-10s and the new castle esc is a little too out of budget and i dont believe they have all the little niggles sorted out yet.

Yeah, I know, I was just sayin'. :smile:

Have you thought about using something like a MMM on 6s or whatever for the time being, then moving up to 8s or whatever once you can afford and feel comfortable with the MMXL ESC?

I am guessing the prices will come down on the MM XL, but do you ever think they will go sub $200?

I would really like to see a 10s capable MMM size esc. I think that would be nice for our larger 1/8 and e specific 1/5 scale stuff. Seems like 10s and 150amps capability would be fine for most setups weighing less than 20lbs.

Haha brian.. 8s PSHHHH i am a little more power hungry that that. I want to make this thing undriveable haha

mr pimp, i really doubt the MMXL will ever come down to $300 in the near future considering the icehv are maintaining their price very well! but since i realised they are able to be had on the bay at $200!!! How can i pass that up, i will do anything to get this braking system sorted so i can run castle power instead of an HK ESC

I think CC might have a sale-able product if they were to take one of their HV escs and put car software on it... Yes it would be forward only, but for the larger scale conversion crowd that may not be such a bad thing. Have it capable of outputing a proportional brake pulse, so it could be used with a std 2 channel radio without having to use a Y cable. I would buy one.

I'd buy one of those as well.

Couldn't a specialist program a HVICE ESC with the car software?

That is what i am thinking... Unless the physical components used in the ICE air hv escs would not function correctly with the car programming? I can only see startup loads as a problem, but only offer the highest amp rated Ice with this feature, maybe?

it is something i would definitely be interested in! But i do believe there is a lot more to it...

Anyway... my braking system is under way, just ordering the necessary parts, and im going to spin the diff mount 90degrees...

Just ran into problems with a hyper st brake cam not working with my alloy diff mounts

As can be seen below

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-26150136.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-26150202.jpg


i have decided to run twin pads front and back for ultimate, efficient braking... Im going to run the cradock twin anti lock brakes on the front side of the diff and regular pads on the rear as i do not mind the rear locking up in a turn to sweep the back around a little, but i would not want the front locking up...
As you can see below, twin pads and discs should have plenty of room

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...1-26145947.jpg

Hey, nobody ever told me about anti-lock mechanical brakes

:neutral:

I'll have to look into those - it's a good idea. I just have mine mechanically adjusted so more braking power goes to the rear.