I wouldn't put that much power in a T4, they can be kinda fragile everywhere but the tranny. T2's can go for as little as $60 on ebay, and are built like tanks. I got mine for $30 as a roller missing some screws and the steering bellcrank setup, but it had Lunsford turnbuckles all around at least. I put a few bucks into it, and ran it with a Lehner 5300 for quite a while and had a bunch of fun, still haven't broken anything either......and I don't exactly go easy on it.

I don't know about a T4, but I had a T3 and hated it. It was a nice truck except for the flimsy top chassis plate that snapped on every head-on or nose dive landing, even w/ a 19t. My bro in-law had a rustler and its a tank. Handles like one too, but I love this tough truck. I say keep the rusty if you're a basher.

So a T2 would be the best choice?

I would very strongly recommend a T2. Its the most durable stadium truck I've ever owned. I picked my last one up off ebay for $40 and it was a complete roller with MIP cvd's, lunsford turnbuckles, RPM wheels and a Proline shell. Not forgetting it comes with a tub alloy chassis as standard, and is mostly part compatible with the RC10GT..so hobby shop's stock quite a few parts for it.

You can mod the hell out of them too to make them even stronger. RPM make front/rear wishbones & bodyposts, and GPM make some very nice rear arm mounts (hobbyetc had them on sale in the RC10 catagory for $5...$5!! what a price). I've ran my T2 very hard - involving lots of trees, curbs, and a great BMX track. The tranny is very strong - the stock gears are good up to 8-9 cells, beyond that I recommend Robinson Racing alloy ones - idler is $12, diff gear is around $15, and if you can find one a titanium topshaft goes for around $20 (not necessary, but I got one anyway). This tranny I ran on 12 cells with an 8L for a few hours running and its still going good.

Are T3's as strong? I can get a T3 for $30.

T3's are not as strong, but are still stronger than a T4. They are lighter and handle better than a T2, but don't have its impressive strength (still fairly strong though).

Does anyone have a T2 they want to sell?

Since i swiched to a different motor, would the rustler work without any tranny upgrades?

You pretty much need an aluminum idler gear in the transmission no matter what motor you use.

Im having trouble finding a T2 where can i get an aluminum idler for a T2?

Well i offered a guy on RCU $100 for a T3 with a body, and charger. He said yes. http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=185530 should i do it?

I'd do a little more shopping around. That radio is a bit outdated, that charger is junk, and those batteries are garbage. I would just start with a rolling chassis and buy the electronics for it.

How about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/rc10-t3-not-t4_W...QQcmdZViewItem

I didnt buy the electronics. I offered $100 shipped for the roller. Should i tell him $80 shipped

I really really wouldn't get that truck as a basher, but its up to you. Still to high a price too. As above, I had one and it would snap the upper chassis ($4) plate on even a moderate front end hit. Additionally the plate attaches to the chassis by two raised pegs which also easily break off, and you are out buying a new $25 chassis as well to get it repaired. Not to mention this weakness bends the alu bottom chassis plate, which lives once unbent but eventually strips/snaps.

I had it for quite a while before I got fed up to buy a rustler. Its a tank. I even bought my wife a nice used graphite Losi XXT combo for $100. Its been quite a bit stronger than the T3, and won't take out the chassis if the upper plate snaps. Look for once of these first, or contact me. I have a number of good spare T3 parts (arms, plates, whole tranny, MIPs, loads of tires) that I no longer need if you really decide to go that route.

You don't need an alum. idler for a T2, the Rusty is the one that needs that gear. The Stealth tranny in the T2 is darn near bomb proof, super smooth too.