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According to your info in regards to gearing this is what you would have been running with the 2200kv motor and stock setup.
Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223 Transmission Ratio: 2.215277777777778 Other Ratio: 1 Spur Tooth Count: 44 Pinion Tooth Count: 20 Total Voltage: 21.00 Motor KV: 2200 Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3 Tire Ballooning (inches): 0 Motor Current Draw: 0 Motor Coil Resistance: 0.006 Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.2 : 1 Total Ratio: 15.70386 : 1 Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm) Rollout: 1.26:1 Total Motor Speed: 46200 RPM Vehicle Speed: 55.14 mph (88.57 km/h) Effective KV Value: 2200 KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A Motor Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Power: Amperage not specified... That's still pretty tall gearing in my book but with you current setup it gets worse. Now with the 1717, 39T idler and you 22/44 gearing you are pushing past 60mph on 5S. That is too high IMO and I am sure others will agree. Differential Ratio: 3.2222222222222223 Transmission Ratio: 1.5366847826086956 Other Ratio: 1 Spur Tooth Count: 44 Pinion Tooth Count: 22 Total Voltage: 21.00 Motor KV: 1580 Tire Diameter (inches): 6.3 Tire Ballooning (inches): 0 Motor Current Draw: 0 Motor Coil Resistance: 0 Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2 : 1 Total Ratio: 9.90308 : 1 Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72 mm) Rollout: 2.00:1 Total Motor Speed: 33180 RPM Vehicle Speed: 62.8 mph (100.87 km/h) Effective KV Value: 1580 KT constant: 0.86 oz-in/A Motor Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Power: Amperage not specified... Plenty of people use the 1717 motor with a MMM esc and have no issues what so ever. My friend has the 1717 in his Savage and he is beating the snot out of it on 6S every day with a HW 150A ESC. Only difference is he got his gearing a lot lower than you. I have also ran the 1717 in my E-Revo with the MMM, geared for just under 60mph on 6S and everything stayed cool. |
Hi Freddy,
You sure it is pulling more current ?. But from what i have learn from this forum, it seems that the general conception is that by using a lower kv motor and gearing to the same speed as a higher KV motor. You will get a cooler and more effiency motor. Not sure if my understanding is right |
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have to correct myself, it depends on the gearing and voltage. if the car have the same speed and same voltage it would pull about the same. as this motor is bigger and the same speed and voltage it will draw more current |
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as you can tell from your own calculation you will notice that my current statement is correct ore close to. but your tire size ore somthing is wrong i can tell the top seed is far from 100kmt many uses an 25t pinion and 6s on the stock 2200, way higher gearing that i have.. the issue is not the gearing. dont want a slower truck than i had (have slightly edited this post) |
Mounted a new mamba monster with 5.5mm bullets and this thing works flawless :intello:
both motor, esc and battery where nice and cold the entire run and the power is unbelievable. happy, regarding gearing i think im on a sweet spot ore maybe im gonna try some bigger tires (its about the same as the stock speed). gonna open the esc tomorrow and take som pic, im pretty sure its one of the fets. |
Hi Freddy,
How is your savage flux xl, is the tranny and gear holding up to the power of the 1717. Have you encounter any problem with your slipper clutch? |
my slipper is locked, so no issue there.
the truck is holding up fine, just the gearing thats a bit to high. the motor and so on is cold, but esc is getting a bit to hot. not sure if its the battery ore esc, so im just gonna gear it down to 19 ore 20t pinion. the best option is prob an bigger esc like the mamba xl. |
I am amazed you haven't shredded a diff yet, I killed a rear diff on my Flux XL with a 1520 and 6S within 5 minutes for the first run, and within about 8 minutes into the 2nd run I killed another rear diff, along with something in the trans and snapped the set screw pin holding the drive cup to the rear output of the trans. Geared for a conservative 37 MPH (16/44 pinion/spur) with HPI bulletproof diffs. I know the 1520 has alot of power, but I didn't think it had THAT much.... Any suggestions? I think I am going to have to go with FLM bulkheads and HB diffs to solve the diff shredding issue, unless someone can clue me in on a good fix for this?
Sorry to hijack the thread, I am just amazed at how many people are running 1717's and 1520's in XL's without issues with the diffs or trans, yet I've shredded it all in 2 runs. |
Krawlin- the shim job makes all the difference.:yes:
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are you stripping your bullet proof bevel gears? Thats amazing, never broken those. But depend of the driving style i suppouse. im mostly bashing in a gravel pit and im not gonna take those bacflip on flat tarmac surface, especially now with the xl kit with more weight in front.
with worn out cups i keep breaking the cross pin, thats the only issue i have had with these trucks. also broken a few a-arms and dampers, but thats to be expected. |
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That's something else, indeed. These gears are bulletproof. The flex in the diffcup is a tad too much for the standard 43/13's but these larger tooth are less sensitive to the flex of the plastic case. Unless the ringgear got unscrewed from the cup itself?
Where did you guys manage to get a hold of the 1717 motor? |
Mounted dual big bores, way stiffer and little sag.
Had to mount a spacer in front becouse of turnbuckle hitting the spring retainer, but i still get plenty of shock action and the truck is bottoming out before the shock is. The way i did it is to cut an bullet connector in half and heat shrink it. and of course get an longer screw for mounting. http://www.versland.net/dual/1.jpg http://www.versland.net/dual/2.jpg http://www.versland.net/dual/3.jpg http://www.versland.net/dual/4.jpg |
Don't be shy, you can tell me where the 1717 comes from.. :)
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