I was going to try to fill a MT tire with air, but figured the required pressure would make it too easy to pop if I go over any kind of sharp object (R/C tires aren't exactly thick-walled), and sealing it properly would be a PITA.

Yeah, I figure the first one will be the toughest. But I only need two (since I'm making a front-wheel drive setup), so by the time I have the process down, I'll be done.

you could use one of those arosols they have for sealing and filling car tires when flat..

How about putting an inner tube inside a tire?

I remember seeing a video on youtube about a guy with a MT floating his truck on a small lake with inner tubes in his tires pumped up all the way.

Good luck,
Nick

I'd have to find an innertube that was the exact size.

Now I think of it, I'll probably just use the wagon's front tires and mod them with the 17mm hex. Cheaper that way.

That's what I was saying. Not sure on exactly how to do it, but IMO that'd be an easier way to go than trying to find RC wheels and tires that can handle the weight.

Well, I got some parts on the way. Most of them are Traxxas parts simply because they're cheaper and it's easy to find replacments:

- Summit 2-speed transmission with 68T spur
- RDLogics Revo CVDs (more on why later)
- Trx 17mm hubs
- Revo pushrods/steering links
- Revo knuckles

Other parts I'm going to use (which I already have)
- Center diff from Hyper8 buggy (had a couple extra for some reason).
- Center diff mount from the Hyper8 buggy
- Medusa 36-80-2000 motor
- MMPro with CCBEC hardwired in for extra BEC current.
- 4s 5Ah lipo

I plan to attach a 16-18T Mod1 6mm bore pinion (have to talk to Mike about a 6mm bore version) directly to the output of the Summit tranny. That will mesh directly with the 46T spur on the CD. When using a 16T motor pinion, this gives me ~55:1 reduction ratio. This arrangement allows everything to be compact and bolt up nicely without having to use a center shaft of some kind.

I got the RDLogics CVDs because the output of the CD has drive cups, and these are the only ones I could find that had dogbones on the end. I just won't use the drive cups the kit comes with.

I'll obviously have to create a simple chassis to tie everything together, and then work out a steering setup. I just hope the Revo knuckles are strong enough to support the weight. I chose them because I can simply run the pillow ball bolts through a vertical metal "strap", which will hook directly to the wagon.

I want to spend no more than ~$150 on this project. I'm already at ~$120, but at least I have just about all the parts I need. I doubt I'll get a strong enough servo for $30, so I am thinking about robbing the servo controller from a crappy servo, adding an external H-bridge driver, and an external geared motor I have laying around. Just have to find a good way to provide feedback from the motor's output via a pot to the servo controller.

Once everything arrives, I can start going actual assembly.

Would it be easier to drive by the rear wheels and steer by the front wheels?
Could do some kind of straight shaft system for the rear or even some barbie jeep drive.
Just thoughts or ideas.

Yeah, I thought about that, but figured it would be easier to have the drive and steering in one spot.

Sorry, looking at their dealer list your out of luck if you don't live in Eurasia.

Anyone know of a 1/8 buggy rim that has a completely flat face (no curves) and absolutely no offset whatsoever)? I want to cut out and use the 17mm hex portion of that rim, and bolt it to the wagon wheels. My LHS didn't have anything and most of the pics on ebay aren't clear enough for me to see how flat the face is, or if there is an offset.