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-   -   Revo shocks (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3133)

cabking 05.20.2006 05:45 PM

They did bend ..........honest :005: forgot to mention that I used aul shock ends too.

Never in 18 months did I bend a shaft on my my Nitro Revo although I did bend a few mount screws, Now I've got the alu mounts on, the screws are staying straight but the shafts are bending, Ive put the stock plastic one's back on tonight..............extreme testing to follow :028:

squeeforever 05.20.2006 05:50 PM

Have you tried the Titanium Nitride coated shafts? They should be stronger.

I honestly like the MSR6 shocks. They have the piggybacks, aluminum shock mounts, aluminum spring retainers, ect. Very nice shocks for less than 55 bucks....I'm just wondering how they compare to the GTR shocks though. I would hate to get the Integy and find that there not even as good as the stockers.

crazyjr 05.20.2006 06:44 PM

I use racers edge alumnium shock ends

squeeforever 05.20.2006 08:55 PM

I was thinking of getting a couple of sets of RD Racing rod ends for my trucks.

BrianG 05.20.2006 09:48 PM

Aluminum rod ends might look nice, but whenever I broke a shock it was right at the end of the threads where it's tough to get at. It was easier and cheaper to throw away the rod end.

IMO, get some of the Ti shock bodies, but keep the stock ends.

squeeforever 05.20.2006 10:05 PM

Well the reason I was gonna get them is because on the nitro trucks the exhaust over the rear heats them up and causes them to warp and get slack in them which traslates to alot at the wheels. I had one that had warped so much that it cause a quarter of an inch of slack at the wheels...

BrianG 05.20.2006 10:12 PM

Well, that's easy to fix: convert to brushless! :D

Seriously, I see your point. What about a heat shield right below the pipe? Something thermally insulative, but doesn't melt...

squeeforever 05.20.2006 10:19 PM

Well why convert to electric? I already have one... One nitro and one electrics fine with me...I can only run one at a time anyway. I think ima just get the aluminum ends and be done with it. I think something like what your talking about will help but I don't think it will cure the problem completely because the pipe gets hotter than the motor does. ALOT hotter.

BrianG 05.20.2006 10:51 PM

When I had a Nitro and an electric Revo, I never took the Nitro one out because it's such a PITA to tinker with and clean up compared to slapping some batteries in and running. I ended up selling the Nitro one for almost $500 and used the proceeds to buy more BL stuff. :)

squeeforever 05.20.2006 11:03 PM

I would probably do that if I didn't race. I think I'm just gonna get a 3.3 for it.

Gallagher 06.10.2006 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dafni
I just plain love those Traxxas hard-anod ones, with the TiNitride shafts... almost zero abrasion on the inside. Get some Jato boots along with them, and you have a killer setup!

I always replace those blue x-rings with two proper, thin, black O-rings.

Last time I rebuild them on the G3R, the oil was still clean and no leaking whatsoever. was very surprised. And they are smooth!

May I ask the dimensions and the material of the two ,thin ,black o-rings?
I would like to change the x-rings to ordinary 0-rings.

squeeforever 06.18.2006 10:15 PM

What do ya'll think about the MIP hard anodized shock bodies?

CCristo 06.19.2006 04:51 AM

I just replaced 4 MIP bodied shocks with GTR shocks. The id of the bodies is too large and doesn't seal against the side of the piston well. I was running 100wt oil up front with the #2 piston and it felt like 20wt because the oil would just past by the piston side and no go through the holes. I'm loving the GTR shocks.

squeeforever 06.19.2006 08:38 AM

Thank!

Sylvester 06.19.2006 08:35 PM

Thanks alot ccristo! I was gonna get the PL threaded shock bodies soon but ill just get the gtr's.


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