I got the rear diff assembled and the rear end back together and i don't see any problem at all,they're spot on.

I took the shafts down in the lathe to 3.5mm from the centre of the bevel gear pin hole,the same as the original outdrive.

All i had was 20k oil so i used that but only just over half full since it's a little thick.Now i just need my chassis to arrive and i'm ready to go.:027:

Off topic but I need a body to use on the non-extended g-maxx.Any suggestions? I want to cover the batts as much as possible,i know it won't cover them completely.

Very nice gustav. Much more robust solution than I would have come up with.

I think I need a simpler solution though. I'm not looking to buy an expensive diff set if I can get a maxx 3.3 from ebay for around $10 each and that will solve my problem. I don't need bulletproof for this truck, I'm only running a 9L in it.

My question now is, Does anyone know exactly what the difference is between the stock emax diffs and the 3.3Tmax diffs? Is it just the housing? If thats the case, I should be able to solve my problem really cheap. But I'm not sure how changing the housing will allow the 3.3 shafts to fit.

I actually think the 3.3 diffs are like the Revo's. Im pretty sure there sealed, new diff cup, ect.

I was thinking i should have just used 3.3 diffs because like you say for $10 you can get a new one if you need to.I guess this way i can throw in an 8s lipo setup if i feel like it and not nurse the transmission.

If you're not running tons of power then the stock 3.3 diffs will work out a little lighter,racers often use them for that reason and shimmed correctly they should do fine.

I thought it was only the cases that were different too,if they're sealed that's a bonus.

How do I shim them properly? :002: I just got 2 sets on ebay for 10.50 each and I'd like to set them up right before throwing them in. What exactly do I shim and what do you use to shim it with?

Well they should be shimmed correctly from the factory but some companies are better at this than others.I would just run them if they feel and sound OK.I normally just run complete diffs as they are unless they feel horrible.

if you push and pull on the outdrives and there's not alot of backlash and they spin nice enough so the mesh isn't too tight then they should be fine.

When you use something like hybrid bulks or the UE ultralite cases they need alot of setting up since they're made to fit different diffs.The stock diffs are made to fit those cases and they probably just use a set number of shims so apart from tolerances they should be good.

Basically you want the ring and pinion mesh to feel and sound right(not to loose and not too tight) without alot of slop between the bearings or preload on the bearings(too few or too many shims)

If they did need it then a LHS or Mike would get you shim sets.

So basically... Don't worry about it unless I have a problem.


OK... Now I'm really confused.:confused: I just went to the exploded views on the traxxas site and it looks like the the emaxx and the 3.3 diffs are identical with the exception of the housing and some upgraded bearings. The cup, gears and output shafts are the identical part numbers. So if the stock 3.3 shafts don't go onto the emaxx diffs cuz they bottom out on the shoulder of the flat, they theoretically wouldn't fit on the 3.3 diffs either cuz they use the same output shaft. I gotta be missing something????

Well yeah in theory then they should fit the diffs you have already unless they were fouling on the cases.I guess you'll find out when you get your new diffs,maybe the exploded diagrams are wrong:032:

The hummer h1 by proline seems to be a low hanging body. I got the sut style. It some down pretty close to the chassis. I can take a pic if you wan to see. It would be on a estended version but reg body length.

Yes please,if you don't mind.I saw the one on Ryan's MaxxBling is pretty low,not sure what that is though.Escalade maybe?

It is not as low as I thought. It give you an idea any way. YOu can drop you body post down some more than I have. Attachment 1489


J concepts has a pleazer type body that works decent. Not sure of the maxx body though.
Ryan had escalade on the maxx bling.

Cheers Leroy,i think it will be OK,i've got AE cups and i might make a plastic guard aswell.

How wide are the AE cups. Would a lipo pack 2" wide fit into them? Looking for a better way to hold the Lipos than the Gmaxx strap.

The ae cups are 1 7/8 in wide. Inside.

Well thats not gonna work then.....