If the battery bar is loose, then you'd still get steering. A steering servo uses about 2-3amps max., which a loose solder joint can easily provide. But when your motor is trying to draw 30+amps, then a loose solder joint will show itself. I'm not saying that it is a loose solder joint, just pointing out that like squee said, it's a possibility. If you have any other battery(s) to try out, then you can eliminate the battery as the problem.

Yup. My servo still worked as well. Like I said, its just a possibility.

Warrior 7020.

heres a pic of the inside of the motor
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...r/DSC00258.jpg
if you ca'nt see it peoperly, the green wire has not got as much heatshrink on it as the other 2 (not as far down) ive tried it with many battery packs before i posted it here, and it still did the same thing.

Take some heat shrink and wrap her up and see. Have you also checked the wries going into the esc?

Did you check the esc wires from the motor to the board?
My bros esc lost it right at the board. It was simaliar problems to yours.
It was the 7020 as well.

Is there and echo in here? LOL

to check do i just lift up the bit of plastic covering the goes around the wires (if you dont know what i mean, the black covering that surrounds the wires that go into the esc) i'll have a look at it in a mo.

None of the wires from the esc are loose. i dunno what it could be now.

gotta be a losse batt bar like squee said, or your motor connections

neweuser, it can't be that.

I also had this happen to me agian, and it was a motor connection. It also didn't seem loose, but after resoldering all 3, it was fixed...

Superbasher, I would remove the old heat shrink and then heat shrink each individual wire first and heat shrink all three together right were it goes through the motor case.That gives you double protection on your wires. Try testing it in your hands before puttingh it all back together. Simulate a bump on each item to find out exactly which one is having a problem. Let us know from there and we probably can help out some more. Hopefully that fixes your problem and you can start bashing again if you can get back into the garage.lol It sounds like you and I are the only ones that use a stick pack on this forum. With all of the battery bar problems we might be the only smart ones.
Edit: Resolder your motor wires while it is apart. After reading your first thread again that very well could be your problem. Only do one thing at a time so you know what the fix was.It takes a little longer but could save a ton of time in the future if you,or any of us, ever have this problem again. And get yourself a ladder

right.
i cant re shrink wrap the wires, as i dont have any, and it doesnt seem to 'cut out' now, it just has a persistent problem. i hardwired it (soldered ech wire end to end instead of a connector) and when i hit the throttle, it stutters, and makes an ascending noise from the motor, ans sometimes it onoly will move for a bit of throttle. does this mean anything?
lol go4gold i guess we are the only ones with shotgun-style packs. i bought them like that cause i thought the battery bars would give me a shock :005: lol

You can get heat shrink from Radio Shack.Put the rear endbell back on and see if it starts to cut out again. I wouldnt worry about getting shocked from the battery bars if you wanted to go that way.7.2v or 8.4v dc isn't going to do anything to you. I know you've tongue tested 9v batteries before so don't worry about 7.2v batteries.
It doesn't cut out now? are you bench testing it or have you put it all back together? Did you try and reprogram you esc before you tried running it again? I run the stick packs cause that is what my truck came with when I bought it from a friend and I'm to cheap to buy more batteries if mine are still working O.K. besides i just bash my truck into everything on the street/sidewalk no racing for me yet.