Because of their superior handling.

As well as the fact that there damn near indestructable in stock trim...

squee is right. The only NiMh/NiCd cells I have are stick packs, the cells in my transmitter, and some 2 year-old GP3300s (that don't work). I don't have any desire to run NiMh when my focus has shifted to LiPo, and I feel I know enough that I can continue using them without any problems. Besides, I find LiPo to be better than NiMh :027:.

I wouldn't be worried about the strength of the mud guards holding the cells, it's just that it would be hard to make battery mounts fit properly onto them. My original plan used a motor above the center diff and larger batteries on the chassis and mud guards, but I couldn't figure out how to overcome the shape of the mud guards.

Why not use different mud guards, or even use a heatgun to make them like you want them...

new user they have very smoth handling, great for the track. and good for jumps, (track jumps)

I suppose I could try out new mudguards, but finding them wouldn't work too well. The LHS I work at (only close one) only stocks one 1/8 buggy: the XTM XT2. While I could try out the mud guards from that, I just don't think it would be worth it. With the Maxamps batteries I plan on getting, they will easily sit neatly on the chassis, and what's good about that is that they will remain closer to the centerline (as close to it as they possibly could). Here's a pic to show why I can't mount batteries on the stock mud guards:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3701.jpg
You'll notice that there's a ridge where it meets the chassis. That ridge is actually raised above the outer surface of the guards. I can't just shave the ridge off since the ridge is only there because of the angled edges of the chassis.

is there room directly on the chassis to mount the batteries with associated battery cups?

It might be able to fit Associated cups, but I'm straying away from using them. They would be about 10mm wider than necessary for the batteries I plan on getting. I used to use the Associated cups in my Rustler, until an upside-down landing on the body caused the hold-down screws to rip through the plastic (and releasing the batteries).

Where did you get the polycarbonate angle from, metalman?

http://www.mcmaster.com
I order all of my screws, nuts, washers, etc. from there. Just this morning I placed an order for some more of the polycarbonate angle (1 1/2 x 1 1/2in. legs) and some 4mm set screws. They have a warehouse only about 20-30mi. from where I live, so I get my order the day after I order it.

Must be nice to have a place like that near you! I have close places too, but they are DOWNTOWN Mpls! Try to stay out of that area as well. Wouldn't go there with less than a platoon with me!

A few days ago I finished the battery holders, but still have to do the battery straps. Soon (very possibly this weekend) I'll be getting some batteries from Maxamps. Originally it was going to be a 4s2p setup using the 2100HV cells, but glassdoctor convinced me to go with 4s3p for increased capacity and increased amp-handling capability. This pack will also end up being more economical for me since the reduced current draw per cell should allow the pack to give more cycles.

Here are some pics of the battery holders:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3846.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3849.jpg
This setup allows for a battery up to about 35mm wide to fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3851.jpg
It can fit batteries up to about 50mm (2in.) wide. Unfortunately the length is limited to about 105mm.

Nice... I still like it... looks like my truggy layout... only shorter. :)

I was talking to BrianG the other day about this layout. If I didn't already have all these 140mm long lipo packs.... hmmmm

I might even end up redoing my X-Terminator into the same setup. Right now it's a more standard setup with the motor above the center diff and the batteries on the mud guards.