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Cant you get something better?
A 4wd full of carbon fiber components and high end engineering? They're pricy, but you really wont regret the outcomes. The one I can really recommend you to buy right now is the Yokomo MR4-BX 4wd buggy. Its for $500 NIB. With a nice 6 cells saddle pack and the Mamba Max 7700 combo, you'll feel like you're driving over 100mph. These buggies are super stable and durable. |
$500 afraid not.....waaaaay out of my budget, im just looking for a cheap one that will still be up to the job as it will only get used when i cant use or cant be bothered with the nitros
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Then I guess the B4 is your ultimate choice. Get some Integy shock towers and chassis bulkhead and braces. They'll make the buggy even tougher.
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with the exception of the chassis, arms etc... |
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Got some pics of integy parts you might need to keep your buggy in one piece:
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They are however extremely durable when used for racing........just not for bashing.
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You might want to condider a XX-4 or a XXX-4...I prefer 4wd over 2 anyday...
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Can the 3s li-po cell be used in the mb4-bx? I still haven't bought a car. Looking around.
The split battery layout makes me wonder if I could get the battery to work. I know the xxx-4 and xx-4 would. |
For a basher the Traxxas cars are good cause the parts flex rather than snap. The pure racers are built light and stiff... the parts don't have much flex so the don't give... they snap.
Personally, I will always go with a race car like the Losi and Assoc cars. But many bashers prefer the less race-able but rugged Rustler. |
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how much better is the FT over the normal one or the stealth? as the normal ones seem alot cheaper |
You might be better off with the non-factory team version. The FT has all the graphite parts which are lighter but won't flex as much. There are a few nice things the FT has but they aren't neccessary. The front brace and lunsfords are good for durability but the rest is just "nice".
some FT stuff I like... teflon coated threaded shocks ball bearing steering aluminum front hinge brace titanium turnbuckles aluminum servo mounts Another thing I like is the carbon fiber battery hold down... with a screw-and-nut mod that replaces the body clips. It's nice because you use the nuts to tighten the brace and it hold the battery tight, and could be modded to work really well with lipos I think. One thing I don't like is the lightweight diff/outdrives in the FT. They wear out pretty fast so you have to get some regular steel ones after a while. Even the RTR isn't bad... has some stuff like dog bones instead of CVDs, but it's mostly the same car. |
ahh ok thanks for that, im glad i didnt win the FT one now then
what are these like? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Academy-SB-Spo...QQcmdZViewItem |
A couple local racers have run them. I wanted one when they first came out but I just kept my XX4.
There were a couple issues with the first units but I'm sure they have been addressed now, and there are hop ups like aluminum motor plates etc if you need something upgraded. It's a poor man's Kyosho/Yok/BJ4... and there are some satified SB owners... like Cain at www.rc10B4.com |
ok
that can be an option then, although i prefer the B4 but im finding it hard to find a cheap one |
im now very confused
will my runtimes get longer or shorter if i run more cells? i have been told they will get shorter and longer :027: and would i have to change gearing if i ran more cells? and can anyone answer one of my questions in the first post?...can someone tell em what runtimes would be like with 6 cells? 8 cells?12 cells? 3s lipo?(this is on the 5700 mamba maxx) |
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