6s on A123 is not the same voltage as a 6s lipo btw. They only charge to 3.7V while lipos are 4.2V. 6s M1 ~=5s lipo

If your motor is running that cool you can certainly move up on the gearing. I bet a 15t or perhaps a 16t would be ok.

i think the reason my motor is running that cool is because it is only like 50-55F outside. besides it is already geared for like 50mph (figure fully charged batts 1.2v under load.)

any other comments on lipos?

5s or 6s?

4000mah or 8000mah? leaning towards 4k to save weight.

BTW i am referring to TrueRc.com lipos........

thanks!

Cemetery, I should get my TrueRC packs in today (2 3S 8000mah) and will let you know what I think. I should be able to test them today or tomorrow...

sweet man, that will be awesome!

PROJECT STOPPED

Well I finally got my maxamps 5s lipos (2s+3s) and found out that the chassis is too flexible to handle this kind of power. I keep stripping spur gears with the center diff. I could just put back the original transmission, but what would be the fun in that?

I am going to convert my LSP again mainly because the drive train is really strong. (look for a build-up thread soon)

opinions?

Bye:018:

There's no reason to stop the project because of such an itty-bitty little detail like chassis flex! About 80% of the fun of these things is finding ways to overcome obstacles!

What about shoring up the chassis with some metal supports?

well, the truck looks different now than it does in the pics here; i have connected the center diff to the front bulk and supported the back of the motor too. (you can see ion the pics) I think I could have Mike machine me a solid aluminum motor/center diff mount and that might solve the problem, but i don't want to sink more money in to this particular truck. I know that later on down the road it will need 1/8 scale diffs among other things, my LSP has 1/8 diffs and is just stronger IMO

Bye:018:

Got any updated pics?

Yeah, I can understand that. Although, it seems a shame to spend so much time/money on something to abandon it now...

I will try and get some later tonight or tomorrow...

I guess, the thing is I do not want to have to spend more money on it. Ehh, it was a project, time to move on to bigger and better.

The only thing I would possibly do to the LSP I am converting would be the Slipperential "V2" for truggys/buggys (when it becomes avialalbe, if it even does). All the electronics from my e-maxx will be going into my LSP.

Bye:018:

Don't let a little bit of flex get to you.. Like Brian says; it's most likely easy to overcome.

Is your mount moving back and forth some. I would look to brace the motor
mount to the chassis and not to the other diff holder. It should help.

well I braced the motor mount to the diff mount, then the diff mount to the chassis. I also supported the back of the motor.

Also here are your pics CHC (sorry for crappy camera phone pics)

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/4.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/3.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/2.jpg

Bye:018:

looks better. definitely looks homemade though! ;)

I really like the looks of the formed rods you put in there, reminds me of a brace for a front wheel drive car, like the civic (reduces chassis flex)

Thumbs Up

Cemetary: I remember that truck now. You had a close-up of the motor mount in another post somewhere a while back. Do you still have that picture (or a link to the thread I'm talking about)?