i agree the daces are probably the best but they are 90 dollars for 2 pairs of them if i am mot mistaken. is there any think that compares but is not in that range proline perhaps.

they are 48$ for a pair of 4....

my bad i thought from the picture it only showed two and so i thought it eant 48 for 2 SO SORRY in this case is is no other option realy it is good quality for not much more than the prolines SORRY misread there site

Its alright, i dont think anyone would pay 90 for a little peice of aluiminum anyway ;)

yeah i hear you on that one

The dace adaptors are the thing you need. The proline 23 mm adaptors use an odd wrench, and they use a small pin to drive them.. the Dace adaptors with aluminum 14mm hexes are the bomb. the proline adapters have got a small pin which drives them, and the pin will wear/eat in the soft aluminum.

You get 4 for the money. Not 2. If that helps you out.
Like rene said about the proline. I have had the pins go 90 degree around
in the aluminum.

Is there any way to prevent the stripping of the wheel?

Just got back from driving my revo with Badlands mt, on Maimizer rims with 17mm hex, and after running the truck on gravel and grass for a awhile one of the wheel was completely stripped out and busted the plastic washer that held the wheel to the hex with the stock nut, I think I may have stripped some of the other tires but haven't checkd yet.

Ok just checked the other wheels and oddl enough I'm starting to strip the front wheel on the same side.

Your nuts are loose (let me guess right side of truck?)

Left side, and the locknuts were as tight as I could get without breaking the plastic washer.

hexes
 

hi all...i too have had this problem i run a 3905 e-maxx and the 14mm hexes are useless and so are the plastic hex nuts. so i now use 17mm half inch offset maximizer beadlocks with sum custom made (by me) 17mm hexes and washers so the original axle and nuts can be used. my wheel nuts do come loose now and again when i run 6s. so use new nylock nuts to solve that problem or try some locktight. plastic washers will be no good so get some ally ones. i dont see a problem with nuts with rounded edges as long as they fit snug in the wheel, the problem is alot of these hexes are actually oversized in the wheel and undersize on the hexes, like the ones i made needed to be 17.30mm +/- 0.05 to fit the max rims snugly so a good fit is best and check the nuts are tight before every run. loose nuts will kill hexes well quick and if you glue your tyres (this is a costly problem) hence i run the beadlocks. if the hex strips (which it dont) all i need is a new face plate for a few quid not 2 new rims and 2 new tyres. if you wish to see a piccy of my hex nuts and washers see my post in project x, they are made from 6082 t6, bye all...

I've never had any problems with stripped hexes, even with BL power. Usually, the left side will strip first because the way the tire rotates can loosen the nut. And once there is any strippage from a loose nut, it's only a matter of time before they all go bad. Even with a locknut, I use lock-tite on the axle treads, especially on the left side.

If it's not a nut tightness issue, I wonder what is actually stripping; the nut itself, or the rim plastic flexing?

lol, this is an old thread!

loose nuts
 

hello brian...well if the hexes dont fit snug in the rims then there will be movement and this movement of the hex will also cause a movement on the shaft and so cause the nut to loosen against the wheel, every time the shaft moves it will gradually undo the nut in the undo direction. u need the hexes to fit well or this will continue to be a problem. some manufacturers will provide too much clearence to there hexes and cause this problem, i have eleminated this problem by custom fitting the hexes to fit the rims. take your wheel, drive shaft, hub off,, set up as it is on the car hold the hub with one hand and try to turn the wheel with the other you will be able to "feel" the play in the system. this play will loose ur nuts:lol:. also play in the drive pin against the hex can be a problem. yes i know this is an old thread but if u still get this problem it can be a pain in the arse so just wanted to help as ive looked into this problem and solved it by tight fitting hexes with tight tolerences.

I thnk it was just too much clearance from the nut to the wheel and with a lot of stop and starts the hex kept rubbing away some of the plastic till it could almost free spin, but since the lock nut was tight the washer and the hub spun against the plastic heating it up severly till it melted the inside plastic and the washer the the wheel popped off.