The 2 motors in one is a nice feature some times though.
The hi amps are nice though for the soldering option.

Well you’re in luck people:) I have a 1930 that I smoked and I’ll try to solder it for you guys to see if it works

Can you even get a hi amp 1940-6 turn?
if so how do i get one from mike if its not listed in the drop down box? do i email him?

Yeah, you can drop Mike an email, he sure can get you a 1940/6 high-amp.

It will work, that's for sure, but the question is if the soldering points inside won't get weak.

As you can see the solder around the base of the socket was already melted due to when I smoked the motor, it got so hot you couldn’t touch the can and the label started to shrink, in a way it was very easy to solder I only used a very cheap 20watt ion BUT and a big BUT I use to service audio and visual equipment for years so I do have experience in soldering, I cleaned the inside of the socket because it was tarnished from the heat damage when it blew up and I applied some of my flux I used for service and tinned the socket, twisted the wire and inserted the wire while the socket was heated with the ion I applied flux and more solder.
It did a nice job I have tested the connection with my service meter and found no noticeable change in impedance the only thing I haven’t tested is the impedance under a massive current draw because the motor winds are burnt lol :035:
Don’t worry about that brown muck it just the excess flux.

Hope this helps


http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4...ldering0gy.jpg

I'm very sorry I did not respond faster, my friend Jeff.

Yes, I've soldered the soket plugs to the wires directly and it worked perfectly. I used the 1920/8 stock can, but I prefer the hi-amp like the 1950/10 I have where soldering is much easier. You need a soldering iron of atlease 60W if you need clean and fast soldering with a chesil tip for fast heat transfer. Using a soldering iron without the chisel tip even if it was 100w strong, is gonna cause a SCHIZOPHRENIC MELTING!!! where part of the solder is successfully molten in one place and the other part did not.

Hayden, is that an HPI touring car?

What speeds have you achieved?

I've never seen the back of these motors; are those solder pads covered on the non-hiamp version? Or are they normally exposed?

The are exposed brian. No cover unless some one makes one.

Thanks. I'm glad I asked. I was thinking of getting one of those simply because it's like having two motors in one, but I would definitely have to fab some kind of insulative cover. I'm funny that way.

I imagine the hi-amp version is different since it doesn't have those solder points?

Yeah it has three wires out the back. Just heat shrink them and you covered.

Hayden and Captain.... Thanks for the info. I really glad that this appears to work and not cause any other problems. The way I see it is I will solder 3 wires into the sockets and then solder proper connectors on the end. I'll use it like the high amp version. Once these are soldered into the sockets they will never be removed. If I need to change the connector I'll just change the connector on the end of the wire.

Hayden, Thanks for the pictures. In one of them it appears that there is solder in the socket but no wire. It looks like a connector I had once that the wire pulled out because of a bad solder job. Is that what you are showing? Also, can you measure the resistance of the soldered socket vs one of the others with a 3.5mm plug in it. Just looking to find out if there is a measureable improvement.

Captian, I'm assuming you have run your motor with no issues after soldering directly to the sockets. Did you solder in the same fashion. Fill the socket with solder? I'm asking because it seems like it would require alot of heat to get the solder to flow into the soket and the wire and get a good solid connection. I have a 60watt iron w/chisel tip I plan to use. But even with that when soldering connectors onto wires it seems to take alot of heat and I am worried about melting a connection I shouldnt.

I just fill the soket plugs with solder and tin the wires with solder, too.

That's why you need to use a very capable soldering iron with high watt rate and large flat tip.

Those sokets seem very dogmatic when you use normal soldering iron, and I almost destroyed one of the sokets with my pie** of **#t 40w Weller iron.
Although my 60w Goot iron has a pointed head tip, the solder was easily molten( but went through the " schizophrenic melting"), though the process would've been many times better with a high end soldering system with a chesil tip.

Lol, it is VERY difficult to measure resistances that low. If anything, you'll get inaccuracies from the meter leads and where the probes contact the surface. You really need a conductance meter for something like that (which is just 1/resistance),

It’s a highly modified colt I posted it here http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=126108 that’s a while ago it has changed quite a bit since then.
I don’t know the speed of it, I purchased a radar gun but I’m still waiting for it :026: all I know is I can only go about half throttle because it goes so fast I haven’t found a flat road that’s long enough yet.


As brianG kind of said you wont notice a difference
The meter doesn’t pick up any changes of the plugs vs solder joints BUT I haven’t tested it under load the resistance will change with current draw….but as to how much?

So what you are saying is your equipment isnt good enough.:018:

:dft012:

lol, no I don't think so...although I don't have a conductance meter (poo). What I'm saying is when you're dealing with single-digit milliohms, meter probes and even the probe wire will contribute to bad readings. Just the contacts of the banana plugs and the probe tips have a higher resistance that that! And I'm not about to solder my probes to whatever I'm measuring! ;)