im currently running 2 6 cell packs, GP 3300's at an average of 1.179 AV. so what would suit my need?

1.179 Av?

thats wat it says on the battery. when i bought them the hobby shop guy said the higher the number the better punch ill get. so i dont now wat exactly that means.

Oh, ok, I see now. Probably the voltage it maintains under a specific load (probably 30A).

I'd just get an 7XL or 8XL then. The 7xl will be faster but will have less runtime. The 8xl will be a little slower but will increase runtime. I was using an 8XL with 12 cells in a Revo conversion and it was quite fast - not 50mph though. If speed is your thing, then get the 7XL.

**Whistles Innocently** I'm aiming for 50mph in my G2R lol...but then again I've had my G2R up to 40 and it felt so planted 50 will be fine.

But I have to agree crashes at those speeds aren't pretty.

lol. I never said there wasn't a crazy fool or two who wouldn't try it. ;)

What do you plan to do to get it there? I hope those new Revo diffs come out soon for your sake! :)

Stock Revo diffs are amazingly strong my friend :)

Not only that, but I'm surprisingly easy on drivetrains...Never stripped a spur in my life! My T-Maxx spur has 6 gallons+ on it. *knock on wood*

1950/6 Hi-Amp on my current Lipos (2x 2S2P 8K's Maxamps) with whatever ESC. I think I'll just try a MM...should be fine. Someone is running 4S on a 1950/7 without a problem, and a bunch of people run 5S with 7XL's and 8XL's, which probably draws more amps, so I should be fine. Plus, 4S is techincally within spec of the MM ESC.

Stock revo diffs are poop.

Remember you are running a tiny setup on yours.

If you build them in aluminum (the diffs) with proper shimming they can last a while, but they are not considered amazingly strong. Mike mentioned that racers replace the diffs after the race with new ones, just in case.. Meaning they don't put a lot of faith in them.

Well, take this form someone who has ran stock diffs on all of his trucks. I'm lucky with drivetrains...and I'm going to stick to that until the 1950 proves me wrong (not doubting that it will).

Plus, I don't know that they are "poop." They are not a strong as 1/8 diffs, yes, but they make T-Maxx diffs look like they were pulled from a radio shack car.

We'll see what happens. I'll report my experiences :) Upgrading from an HV to a 1950 is a big deal for me :D

you are using plastic cups/housings?

Maybe....:032: lol

Yea, I am...I have a feeling those will be the first to go.

I think I'll end up getting RR Ring and Pinion and some Aluminum Cup and Housings and shim it (if I ever blow the stock diffs - again, still operating under my little lala-land dream here). I think that'd be pretty strong, no?

Just how powerful is a 1950? Any analogies that I can compare this to?

MetalMan is running a 7XL on 5S A123 in his Revo and he has never had a diff problem and he's running stock diffs, but then agian he has a slipperential in his (his own slipperential).

Come on Rene, don't sugarcoat it; tell us how you really feel! ;)

I've never blown a Revo diff yet, but I do have my start power set to low. They are weak though; only two satellite gears in a plastic cup. I know I'll be one of the first to pick up one of those upgrades Revo diffs that Mike is working on...

Lol Brian..

I guess i can put more effort in choosing more uncolored and decorating words to describe how i feel about these 1/10th diffs..

lol. No, I think your words are just fine. You very clearly expressed your opinion about those diffs with no room for confusion due to misinterpretation. :)

how speed and run time difference are we talking? i have a feeling ill get the 8xl to keep run times up. i also read that the A123 Lipos are that great. Xtremerc cars tested them and they said yes they are strong but dont match the power of regular lipos. can you guys fill me in on these? and if i remember right, they some with a charger too?!?! maybe a link?!