Oh, there are going to be balancing issues. If you are running two packs, you'll either have to charge each one individually, get two chargers with two balancers, or make a harness to charge and balance both batteries in series. With a single pack, you don't have to do all of that. Just plug it in and hit charge.

With 1/8th scale buggy's it's easier with a 4s single pack with truggy's you can get away with running duel packs but there is a lot more room.

The Hyper 7 is a much better buggy then the older discontinued Ultra series there still making the Hyper 7 and there is better part's suport oem and aftermarket for it. I have a ultra worlds II and could never get it to run more then about 20min without breaking something in the front end.:032:

Ok that about seals it then... looks like the Hyper 7 Pro unless its a total piece of crap. But I know the guy and I don't think he'd try to peddle a hunk of junk. He said it was in good condition. I just haven't seen it yet.

Yes Angel I have seen the conversion web site... not sure I bookmarked it though... so thanks for posting it.

ok next couple questions....

What motor mount for the Hyper 7? I see a Ofna CR mount on the this site... would that be the one or does Mike have one for the Hyper 7 that isn't listed (or that I can't find). I was considering using the Trinity EMaxx motor plate but I'm not sure how that would work. Specifically the mount is 4.76mm thick, then add and heat sink thickness, and the fact the mount is attached to the diff mount rather than replacing it I would think there would be a problem with the pinion reaching the spur.

ok now excuse my electronics ignorance here... if I go with the Wanderer motor that comes with 5mm plugs and the MM has 4mm (I think). So would I just replace the 4mm on the MM or should I use thicker wires also. Not sure but they look like they are 14g on the MM. Suggestions.....

Not sure if this will fit but I have some old XXX-S chassis around so I was thinking about cutting out the battery tray and using in the conversion. Seems pretty simple... I just hope they fit.

To tell you the truth, I don't even remember is the MM comes with any plugs. I think that the systems (motor/esc combos) some wired up with plugs, but I don't know if the esc alone comes with them. In any case, I believe the 4mm plugs to be too small for the large scale application. I'd go with the 5.5mm plugs, at least. The next time I re-wire everything, I might just go with deans plugs all the way around. The bullet connectors loosen up over time.

Anyway, chances are that you're going to have to do some soldering. I take having to do some soldering as a given. The MM does come with 14 gauge wire, although it is high quality wire. I've rewired all of my MM escs with 12 gauge. The 14 gauge gets quite hot.

I just got my MM yesterday (ESC only) and it does have female plugs on the motor wires. Nothing on the battery wires. I've done plenty of dean's so I guess I can go that route. I suppose its up to personal preference just wonder what others have done.

Mamba Max has 13ga wire

I'd replace those 4mm connectors with at least 5.5mm connectors. The 4mms get HOT and loosen up pretty quickly. Many just egg their female connectors for a tighter fit, but my anal nature tells me that doing that just decreases the surface area of the connection.

Ok I hope this isn't a stupid question...oh well I'll take that chance. Since I'm assuming that nitro motors have a pretty standard mount why couldn't you just use the RC Monster Revo electric motor mount for any nitro to brushless application? Since there are different electric mounts I would guess there is a reason but I don't know why.

The revo uses a rather odd mount; allmost every mount is a bit different.

The Revos actually have a pretty rigid chassis, with bends in them that add to their resistance to flex. That's why the electric motor mount for the Revo works. With an 1/8 scale buggy, you really don't want to mount the electric motor in nitro motor fashion, because of chassis flex.

Of course, some chassises flex more than others, but, in any case, chassis flex can be very bad for your pinion and spur. Generally speaking, a motor mount that is either bolted to the center diff bulk or incorporates the center diff bulk is the best way to go. That way, the motor and center diff move as one unit.

ok that makes sense

Oh my trials and tribulations! Man I can't even get together with these guys to look at their buggies! Sheeesh! I almost scrapped the project for an electric buggy (1/10 scale) but someone talked me out of it. Guess I'll just have to go with whatever comes up first... main thing for me is to get one going then I can switch to a different car later. I'll be back and show my progress if I can ever get this project going! lol Thanks guys for your input so far... it has really helped!

Ok guys here is what I'm planning to do... some of it isn't perfect and I'll upgrade as I get the money but to get it going this is what I have in mind.

Hyper 7 - done
Mamba Max - done (disconnect BEC)
Receiver pack - done (eventually UBEC)
14.4V IB 3800's - done (eventually lipos)
Feigao/Wanderer 9XL 16\46 - need
Emaxx motor mount - done (Just looking at things I think I'll want something different)
Heat sinks/fans for motor and ESC - need

Does that sound ok or is there something there that is a definite no-no? The upgrades are what I want but it would probably be the end of summer before I get it all... hence this starter version.

This should be up and running in a couple weeks if this sounds ok.

Thanks again everyone!!

padailey, you'll definitely want a heatsink for the motor. I was running an RC Monster heatsink, but wound up turning my own that covers almost the whole motor. The Feigao motors, due to their inefficiency, will get hot no matter what you do. I have mine to a point where it will run for just about 1/2 an hour before it reaches 200*F.

I wouldn't bother too much with a fan for the motor. It didn't seem to help me much. I would just go for a 12v fan from radio shack and mount that in a way that cools the esc and if it blows on the motor too, all the better. I run my 12v fan straight off of my 4S lipo pack. Running it on the overvoltage hasn't seemed to hurt it...yet.

Everything else looks good so far.