If you use the right cutting tool it's acctually eaiser. A coping saw with a fine blade maybe better than a hack saw. The blade is very felxible & cuts turns very eaisly.

It's all opinion, lets not start a flamewar now.

I'm not flaming at all just stating my opinion . for me presonally it's eaiser.

To each his own. Plastic is relatively soft. It heats up quickly and melts and the possibility of making a mistake is greater.

Believe me, if i can turn it on a lathe, mill it, grind it, or cut it with a power tool, I'm there. Hand tools just work better for me when working with lexan.

Looks good redhatman:cool: . I also bought 2 sets of the associated battery cups,but realized that they will not fit the lipo I plan to use:rolleyes: .

I scored the otherside of the piece and they snapped very easily. Some of the score lines did not match up so im probably gonna round all of them off after all.

Is the lexan we are using to fab out chassis components similar to lexan used for r/c bodys? Im thinking of painting the underside of my esc mount and battery trays. Will polycarb paint work on the thick lexan sheets.

yes, thick lexan = thin lexan = polycarbonate...lol.

The special RC paint is meant for lots and lots of flexing so it doesnt chip. You may even be able to get away with regular paint, as long as it isnt going to flex much.

Yeah I figured as much. I was worried if any certian type of paint will cause the lexan to "fog".

Im using my pocket knife. The blade is thick and has a clip point thats pretty sharp, I should say "was pretty sharp". Works fine now that Im scoring both sides.

Good Luck!

The scoring method works great on the thin stuff, but i've never tried it on the thicker stuff to see how it works.

You could try plasti-dip spray - It came out really good on my e-revo.

Another tip is to cut down an old rustler or stampede chassis for the battery tray... Again this worked great as it provides lots of protection is perfectly sized and bolts straight to the chassis.