Start narrowing it down. Throw the 8L in on the MGM w/ 4s. If its slower its the speed control, not the motor.

You really need to get an eagle tree to track down these problems. Being able to measure the power will really tell you alot.

jhautz, I agree. An eagletree is something that I should have invested in a long time ago.

I'm just going to have to go through the PITA of getting the battery out of the buggy. I permanently installed it to reduce weight.

Try switching the motor and battery out and see what happens. Let us know. You have me curious to get the the bottom of this now.

OK, I put in the Kokam 4S pack with the Feigao 8L and it was the same thing. It isn't the motor.

When I ran it this time, I ran it coming toward and then past me at full throttle. I could swear that I heard some sort of rev limiter kicking in keeping the revs down. I have it programmed in race mode and set for nimh cells so the controller should be running wide open.

I am really not understanding this.

I just looked at the specs again on the Compro controller and noted that there is a 150,000 rpm limit for two pole motors. What does that make the limit for 4 pole motors? 1/4 of that?

Is there a controller out there that will do what I want it to do? That is, let a Neu motor spin to 50K rpms.

I think a 4 pole would be half that, 75,000.

Yes 4 pole should be half of a 2 pole motor. 75K rpm

Aangle,

So does running it in race mode at least get rid of the cutting out problem you were having?

I finally got a chance to try my 16024 today, though not for long. Seems I am having similar issues. Running a Big MAXXimum on 6s puts me at about 50,000rpm too. Running in "cut off" mode it cuts out if I accelerate hard, Running in "reduce rpm" mode was better, but did cut out some as well. Running in "race" mode worked great, but after about 5 min it cut out, so I figured I better stop since I had about 15 min running on the batts with no lvc. I think the issue is current protection kicking in, the controller software on the computer said a max amps of 400! However, it does not seem to log amps in "race" mode, at least on my one run. My batts are hardly even warming up at all, which seems weird if it is going that high in amps or if the voltage is in fact dropping below the 3.1v cut off that often. I ran about 5min in each mode, so further running is needed to see just what is going on. And FYI, max temp reported in the software was 56c, so it is not thermalling (I would hope).

If the MGM is cutting out like this, and since bdebde's showed a max of 400amps, maybe something strange is going on with the circuitry of the MGMs? I'm thinking some of those 25v 330uF caps would be a good idea to try out for AAngel, to see if that would help at all.

Looks like I have bigger problems, bad esc or motor, with my luck, both.

400 amps... no way. Something is screwy with there software, or their current measuring device (shunt?).

AAngel, you really do know how to push stuff AND/OR find equipments weaknesses in a hurry! :rofl: You have some bad luck; I thought I had some bad luck, but YOU have some bad luck my friend! :whistle:

Metalman, the caps he has are 35v/330uf... I know because I bought a lot of 30 caps from him.

The Quark still seems to be the controller of choice for Neu setups, and/or 6s (7s M1) higher voltage running... with the internal mod, and a extra two caps on the power leads of course, which is not the biggest deal for such a smooth running controller.

:oops: Those are the ones. I don't know how I managed to put down 25v, especially considering that I also bought 30 of those caps from him while he had them.

If my Compro is fried, it's time to get a quark and caps. Anybody got any extra caps?

Bruce, didn't I send you some caps?

Anyway, I was thinking that maybe the esc needed more voltage. Since it is rated to 6S, I put together a 6S pack and ran it with my 1515/1.5d. It started out ok. When I opened it up, I got the same speed as I did on 5S with the motor cutting in and out like it did before.

I tried another run and poof....smoke. $375 down the drain. Like an idiot, I'm getting ready to buy another one, because I can't just not run my race truck for three months while mine goes back to the Czech Rep. I would consider a Monster Pro except that I fried my fourth one last week, which is why I bought the 22418.

I've come to the conclusion that no one makes a controller that will do what I need it to. I'm going to think about buying another controller. The last project, was $375 for the controller, $280 for the motor and another $240 for the battery to wind up with a setup that doesn't run. I could have bought two Novarossis for that.