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Take a look at the MGM website:
http://mgm-compro.com/index.php?cat=...for-cars-boats Those are the controllers. Now take a look at the Neu motors: http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/15...es%20data.html RC boat sites are a good place to look to buy them if Mike is out of stock, and pick the smooth can versions. Now you simply need to match the Kv rating (RPMs per volt) to the voltage batteries you plan to run, and match that to a suitable esc. Example: On 6s you would want the 160-18 esc and a 1515 1y would be good I think, or maybe the 224-18 & 1515 1.5d if you wanted to go nuts. In any event, you will need the 1/8 drop in diff kit Mike sells for the revo since the stock items wont last 2 seconds. The best way to find out more info about all the mentioned items is simply to read through the forums- lots of info can be found in a short space of time, and lots of answers to potential questions too. BrianG's speed calculator will also come in very handy Im sure: http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html |
Quote:
I dont want to get a Quark because of the heat issues, and the MGM's are flat out too expensive for me, and a waste for 4S. But I'm dying to run these packs and they should prove to be a powerhouse. I had a 4.5 in my G2R and while it was very fast, it was a horrible drag racer. It had the most linear power delivery and smoothest running of any system I had ever driven, but it just didn't have the brute power that most people want. I'd reserve this system for tracks that don't have a lot of traction, don't require a lot of speed, and/or need a lot of precise control. For drag racing, this is not the system you want to be using. |
Hey BP-Revo, I saw an interesting esc you might be interested in on feebay:
CLICKY Personally I think it looks okay- cheap, forward & brakes only, but it does have a 120amp & 6s rating so.... I dunno, might suit what you want?.... |
luisranza,
Who is your friend? Are you talking about parking lot drag racing? I've been running in the parking lots in Gretna, and in buggy class, nothing even came close to my Turmoil. After one night of running, I took the buggy apart because there was no competition. Truck class is a bit more fun and if you keep the setup kind of mild, you can leave a lot of room for competition, whereas driving skill plays a larger part in winning. You will soon find that if you make your car/truck too fast, no one will want to race you. In a 10lb or so truck, this is what works for us. First, we run GRP tires. The Parks work very well and don't ballon much. We stuff the front and rear diffs with 100,000 diff fluid and the center diff with 500,000, which essentially locks the center diff. You have to do this or the power will unload to the front and cause your truck to wheelie. You'll also want to lower your truck. Slam it to the ground as close as you can get it. As for the motor, the 1512 can Neu motors work the best. They have the nuts to get the truck moving without too much torque and they spool up quickly. We are also using the Compro controllers. Through playing around with the gearing and programming the esc, you can get to a point where all you have to do is grab a handfull of throttle when you take off. A Neu 1512/1.5Y on a GOOD 5S lipo pack running around a 46/20 gearing with monster truck tires should get you about 50 mph, which should be fast enough to compete in a 132' race. If it isn't, change the gear ratio some. I just want to warn you, drag racing is rough on your electronics and the thrill wears off quickly. |
AAngel
My friend has a savage with 2 motors on it and I think he has told me about your Turmoil before. |
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