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Think of a circuit breaker as a safety switch (thats what it is really)- like the emergency stop button on a lather or pillar drill etc. Its just a bit odd to use the emergency stop button instead of the normal on/off switch is all.
As for energy guzzling appliances: hairdyer = I have a grade 3 hair cut- no need for one! Tumble drier = I use the airing cupboard or the clothes airer infront of a window. Heater = I never have them on, only in the depths of winter if it gets really cold, then I just have the one in my bedroom on and keep the door closed to trap the heat. |
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Breakers are NOT simply switches, they are over-current devices. If you wear them out with repeated on/off cycles, they may not trip when they are supposed to, or trip before they are supposed to. It's along the same lines as using a screwdriver as a prybar; sure, it may work, but it's not the intended use for the tool. And like I said, one breaker may control each side of the house, or several rooms, etc. From my experience, those fliers from the elec co are a bit inflated. $30 savings a month is kinda hard on a $90 bill. You'd have to cut your power use by 33%. I still think switched power strips is the way to go on some of the smaller items. |
I just looked at the circuit breaker/fuse box in my flat:-
1 switch for all the lights 2 switches for all the plug sockets 1 switch for the oven (400v cicuit rather than 240v) 1 switch for the smoke alarm 1 switch for the electric shower 1 switch for immersion heater in the hot water tank So, it is indeed rather tricky to pick specific areas you want to power down. |
Electric shower? Doesn't that hurt? :lol: I assume you mean electrically heated shower?
Anyway, that's typical. High current stuff has it's own breaker (dual breakers in one package for 240/480v). Lights are usually all on one except maybe if you have two floors. Electrical outlets are typically ganged 10-15 receptacles on one breaker. I wouldn't mind rewiring my house so that every room has a seperate breaker for receptacles... |
move out.. that will save your parents a ton of energy!
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I have recently installed an APC 1250 UPS system for battery backup and surge protection. It's pretty advanced and has a built in watt meter for load levels.
I figured with all the thunderstorms we have here, it's a good idea. Into it, I have plugged the following: Cable Modem External Firewall Box Router HP pentium 4 (3.0 Ghtz processor, Dual Hard drives, ATI Graphics accelerator card) 46" LCD TV that I use for a monitor With everything running, watts average about 280 with the computer at idle, but it spikes to 350 watts during heavy processor use. With the computer and LCD TV off, the connection equipment is drawing 18 watts. It says it will carry the 18 watts for about 200 minutes, during which time I will use my laptop to stay tuned to the local radar. Sounds like a plan at least. I hope some of this information is useful. |
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I'm sure the code is better these days, but don't forget that there are a LOT of older houses that were built in a time period where not everything needed power (or as much of it).
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