Thanks Sneeck and Re~mix
can i use these?

deans 2 pin ultra $3.09(2)

Team Orion Battery Jig $8.59

instead of those orion bars can i use this?
Novak Battery Cross Bars $4.29(2)

Novak Lead-Free Silver Racing Solder $8.59

Novak Super-Flex 12 b/r 3" $14.79

Hobbico 60watt soldering Iron $5.99

and oh yeah the flux that Re~mix gave alink too
Trinity Rosin Flux $4.79

Those would work also. You got a hot glue gun? Cause if not you'd need one too. Get's a lot of load off the battery bar's which could come loose if the load is to much.

my mom has glue gun so im good

i jus calculated all it would cost me 55+ all in all but theres still tax

oh yeah my dad has a soldering iron its 25watt
will that work?

When soldering battery's you want to minimize the contact w/ the iron touching the cell's. The longer it takes to solder, the more chance there is the cell can be damaged.(cell's don't like heat) It might work nonetheless, you can try it. I'm using a 80 watt iron to solder my side by side pack's. Works beautifully and fast.

instead of the hobbico one do you think i should get a better one??
or stick with hobbico since its cheaper?
or should i get this one
Cold Heat Cordless Soldering Tool Classic
have you guys ever used this b4?
would it be good for the batts or not?
I dunno how to look :W:

Can't open the page, but i've heart it causes a "cold" solder joint which can pop loose. I'd stick with something what worked before.

heres a pic of it
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/13...75189924_4.jpg
and the link to its site
ColdHeat

Yes I know what it is from the titel.

Those 'cold heat' ones are crap for soldering anything decent. If you solder the cells well, I find that shrink wrapping the whole pack is more asthetically pleasing than glue. But either is good. Shrink wrapping takes a little practice, as if you hold the heat on the wrap too much, then it breaks, too little and it doesn't hold tight enough.

Honestly, I find the deans speed jig to be worth the extra few bucks, its really nice and easy to use. And, I don't know anyone running novak bars, so no idea if they are any good? Personally i run orion's, but that is just because they are the only ones that fit in a losi battery tray.

When soldering batteries for the first time be patient, it takes some practice and redoing. After a few tries though, it becomes easy. Have you read a "how-to" on it yet? If not, i suggest you do.

can you give a link to a how to?
I'll stick with the hobbico soldering iron if your saying ColdHeat is useless

The deans speed jig only holds 6cells i need ones that hold 7 cells

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl...ld_battery.asp
Here is a link to help you out. I tried the 60 watt hobbico. It did okay. I like the 100 watt iron much better. Does the job in less time and keeps batteries cooler.

Mike!
i might ask my dad for the g2xbrace chassis this weekend
jus a maybe heads up
if not maybe next week
i might ease him little by little

ugg this sucks
I'll ask my dad next time for the G2 chassis cuz right now hes not gonna buy me anything expensive

Whenever you are ready, Shadow. Also, I can supply all the mentioned items in this thread(solder,battery bars, wire, battery jigs etc.) if needed(most items are already listed). Make sure you use a good, HOT iron when soldering batteries. The longer the iron is on the battery, the greater thenchances of damaging the cells. I use a Hacco iron(cost $100, but is is the best soldering iron I have ever used-I can tin a cell in about 2 seconds).

Thnx Mike