5S would be very fast on a bigmaxx (which is good... :) )

you would also need 2 LVC's with these 18.97 controllers to protect your lipo's from deep discharging.

The new 40c kongpower lipos do not look like they will need a lvc.

I think you mean 97 AMPS?... :rofl::slap:

???????
 

Ok linc since I have a "Big Maximum" on its way to me now:yes:, do you have a link for those Kongpower batts:wink:? I already have the UE SuperMaxx truck setup for bulletproof operation:whistle:. So now I am trying to put together the bulletproof electronics to move it around:rofl:. I have a Quark 125B coming, and an MGM 16018 or 16024 in mind as well:eyes:. Plus the MMM will be out later this month, and I will have to buy at least two of them for safety sakes:mdr:. So I am sure that one combination or another will do the trick for me. I also have a few lipos laying around to try and some Dewalt cells to put together to. I have two 11.1v 10,000mah batts that I have not used for anything yet. I am nearly ready to knock down a house with this truck, but I have to put together the most reliable power system that will give me the play time that I desire:whistle:. At this point I am merely bashing for fun, but eventually I do hope to get into the racing scene. Maybe once we arrive in Korea I can find a friendly place to run:yes:. I still have so much to learn. Help me "OB1Kinoby" ........:lol:

what is lvc...?
 

does it mount "in line" on the truck?

LVC = low voltage cut-off, to protect the lipo batts from over discharge.

Lvc
 

LVC :rules: stands for "Low Voltage Cutoff" Refering to a circuit/switch that cuts off the ESC when your voltage level drops to a specified point (usually 3v), so that your batteries do not continue discharging and drop below that parameter. If your Lipos voltage drops too low they can become unstable and damage may occure. Fire, explosion, etc etc ...... I believe the point that someone is trying to make with you is that your ESC may not come equipt with an LVC already. You may need a seperate LVC to accomplish this task in order to protect your equipment.:lol: Please correct me if I am wrong guys???? Good luck with that.:intello:

Good News!
 

i snapped off the front and then the rear portions of my transmission output shaft last week...i installed the new on today...the old one was stock traxxas aluminum....FYI>>>>the new ones from TRAXXASS are "steel" ,it should hold up better!....i still have not decided to make the switch to LIPO yet...i have 8-10 matched packs that i cant give up!....if these new shafts dont hold up i might switch to SHAVE some poundage!(literally)....some have suggested that i take off one PLETT...no way,that would be like removing a turbo charger because there was too much power!...VIDEO SOON!

Aluminum shaft was stupid idea by traxxas at least, you can twist it with your bare hands :diablo:
As for dual pletts, they are cool looking and great motors, but if I were you I would connect them together (with strong magnetic friction (pole cogging...) it would be very simple to match them) and run from single MGM ESC.

GriffinRU.....Have you ever done that successfully and made it work , running two brushless motors of one ESC given that the ESC has to sence where the rotor is.......:whistle:

That was just a joke right?.. or is it really possible... :surprised::lol:

sensorless doesn't keep track of here the rotor is, correct?..

Even sensorless get feed back on rotor position

But yes I believe this can and has been done - Get the rotors in sync and locked with gearing it can work

Please video tape it if you try..............:smile:

Arthur has explaind the precise procedure in the past, and its alot simpler than you might think:

1. Short 2 wires of each motor with a single 1.2v cell, they will rotate to a certain posistion. (do this with the pinions installed to make life easier later).
2. Wire the motors in parallel, then to the esc.
3. Bolt the motors to the motor mount, and mesh them to the spur; when you rotate one motors shaft, the other should follow automatically due to the mechanical magnetic cogging... thing.
4. With the motors meshed to the spur, you can now treat them as one motor in essence, only they will draw double the amps since they are in parallel. You really do need a good esc and batts for this setup.

Yes, I have done that on many occasions and I can even explain how it works and why.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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And nicely matched two plettenbergs would be not a problem for ESC to run in sensoreless mode.

Quote:

That was just a joke right?.. or is it really possible...

Have you seen any of this :yes: in my post?

Its all about timing :yes:

Thank you,

I've learnt alot from you dude, and I admire the crazy stuff you can do with electronics.

Cool.....this was said to not work in other forums , but hey your system does seem make sence . this I would like to see for real just to say that I have

new problems!
 

EMAXX trani was working for almost two full batt runs...input shaft has failed now...trani seems to be fine...have to disassemble again tomorrow...i did pick up heavy duty (traxxas #3993x)new one today at hobby shop today!...I MIGHT HAVE TOO MUCH POWER!...it really hauls as for a while though!...is my 1 esc able to power two motors?

the power potential is definately there... but the poor old drivetrain is dying man... from the weight of them NiMH.... save ur truck by gettin' some LIPOS...

Hey, if you put two brushless motors beside each other and spin it, the other one spins as well....

You would need a seriously heavy duty esc to power both the BigMaximums, something like the MGM 224amp models- about $400+ a pop I think...

I will agree, only MGM would be able to handle 2 pletts. I thought that you are going to upgrade to LiPo and MGM.

-Even if you improve cooling for schulze, 2 pletts and such payload would cook it in no time when you hit brakes. You could do tests runs with your current ESC but lower you cell's count by half a least.

I would recommend you use/get..
Bulldog 30Amp Power supply
2x 4S/5S 25C/30C 5000mAh/6000mAh Lipos
Hyperion EOS 610i DUO .. charge both packs at the same time, up to 6s.. maximum of 360 Watts!!!

right now, you're only limited by ur ESC.. can only pump out 97 Amps...

even better, you could just stick to 3700mah 25/30C lipos.. save even some more weight....

trani repaired!
 

:mdr:....no damage...the small hollow pins that hold the drive gears to the shaft sheared off!...thank goodness i also located the two small pieces inside the trani case...they were stuck to the sides...in tact and not smooshed flat by runing through the gears!...i will be switching to lipo this week before i blow out something big$$$!...i can shave almost 2 pounds right there,if it still is too heavy i will drop a motor!

I am sure i can find a new ride for a BIGmaxximum and a Schulze 18.97!:mdr:
i still need an exact part number for the exact LIPO batts to purchase,please?
i will be gettind the Hyperion duo charger!

Well, if you have the cash, then I think the Neu energy lipos look rather awesome- Mike has them in the store, or look around. Truth be told, anything 20C or over, with at least 5000mah will run just fine. I would suggest a pair of 2s lipos if you go with a single motor, or a pair of 4s lipos if you stick to twins....

Thanks
 

Thank you for sharing your experiences wtih this setup:yes:. I am learning from your issues, and I have a Big Maximum and a Schulze 18/97 (2nd hand)arriviing very soon for my UE SuperMaxx:yipi:. I am only planning to run one motor and I do believe that it will do just fine as a single. I want power and speed, but I am not looking to break any records. I just want to have fun, and I still believe that it will turn heads. My challenges will be getting the right gearing and battery setup to keep it runing strong and efficiently as possible. I will probably start with 3S 10K mah, and work my way up from there. I have a few Maxamps packs already, but I think I will try some of the other more potent brands for the increased "C" ratings. Your thread has given me a lot to think about. Thanks Man.:lol:

i got my CA$H for lipo READY!
 

Polyquest 16/25,PQ5350LP-4s or 5s...what to get?...any final input?:whistle:

you're still going to run 2x BigMaxx right.... go for 5S...

yep 5s, 4s is not enough IMO.

ok 5s it is!
 

i am going to get batts & hyperion dUO from RC-LIPOS.COM...do you guys use this company?...do i need lvc?...what brand do you guys use?...whare can i get one?

last ?
 

i need a lipo rx pack?...which one ?what size?

You could use a UBEC as well. A 5 cell nimh rx pack should do.

Get the Hercules UBEC, its awesome and I haven't had ANY issues with it and it appears to really take care of emitting RF. Well designed layout.

check this out
 

so i can use the Hercules UBEC and not use a LVC?...is this correct?

nope,lvc and ubec are two seperate circuits, you need one of each, the ubec replaces the reciever battery and the lvc monitors voltage so you don't run your lipos too low, and the ubec further reduces weight

secondhand but brand spankin' new! (the esc anyway)

Thank You.
 

Yea thanks for the support "P":yipi:. I have the Big Maximum now, and the MGM 160/24 came in yesterday. It is brand new still in the factory packaging with the latest firmware updates. I am still awaiting the Schulze to arrive. I have a lot of work to do, but we are getting ready to packout for the big move to Korea right now, so I probably will not get the time to work on any of this until we get our household stuff in late August. Oh well I will get to it as soon as I am able and post up some pics and reviews. The kids sure are excited about getting to start working on them and running them. Thanks again Harold.:yes:

J2K, moving to Korea to get closer to the Lipo Manufacturers...:)

His probably going to show us all the high tech brushless stuff and make us cry for a while. The he's going to wait for us to beg him to buy some for us :lol:. Let us know what goodies they have there if you have time of course.