If you think I am scary, you should get a look at lutach in a dress...

The old jokes are the best...

Swapping pigs?!?!?!?! Sounds like something we used to do in high school with the less popular girls!

Those are good times with street tires, the demon is not too heavy, and the worked over small block sounds good too. Gotta have manley rods, the girley rods are no good!

I have an 8 3/4 rearend so I have two pigs(third members, chunk, pumpkin) or whatever you want to call it. Best time is 45 mins to swap it out.

The car in the back was my old dart. Rest in peace gold nugget. LOL

:rofl:. Will never happen.

Nice and clean SD, that 340 must be pushing the car around very well indeed. I like that you went with the holley demon for a carb :) Aluminum radiator propably keep it plenty cool but I'd toss that fan (They never pull air like they sound they are) get a pair of high flow 12" electrics and mount them diagonally. You'll pick up a few HP and not have the three little scars on your elbow like me hehehe.

I absolutley loved my chevelle when it had the 2.98:1 freeway fliers in the 12 bolt. I swapped up to 4.11's with a spool but was never happy about the RPM's at freeway speed (spent alot of gallons at 6,000 rpm going from cali to vegas). Twisted alot of driveshafts (even a $380 race shaft that was supposed to be good to 1200hp) before I realized the bushings in the trailing arms (boxed old school) were junk letting the rear end rotate up and bind the joints... oh whell live and learn.

I had a mercury 454 marine block (thicker cylinder walls you could bore to .110 over) rectangle port iron heads, 10.25:1 pistons and a eagle forged crank (454). Single plain holley manifold and an 850cfm double pumper, stock rods (yup) and super comp headers running dual 3" out in front of the rear tires.

Never broke 11:50 with the 295/70r15's but then I borrowed a set of 10" slicks and man did it fly!

Best money I spent on that car was the trailing arm bushings, hochkis springs (stock hieght), and 1 1/2" swaybars front and rear. The car never got more paint than primer black :( stripped every part and all the undercoating to cut weight (~2650 lbs w/o gas)
She was LOUD and rattled to no end, I loved that car. Didn't even have a radio.

No power brakes? you still running drums in front? disc's were my first upgrade after I hopped a curb and almost hit a lady waiting to cross the street at a red light.

Tried the whole dual spa fans but never did like them. I had promax put in some annular booster inserts into the downlegs. The LM1 meter says I'm dead on with my tune. Only thing that gets on my nerves is setting the lash every so often but the jesel rockers help them stay within spec(.018). I still have alot to do and really want to go to a solid roller but not just yet.

Oh brakes are 4pistons up front and 11inch drum in rear. I don't pull enough vacuum to run power booster.

That 340 has a shaft style rocker base right? I know I had problems with valve adjustment with the 454 till I put a brace on the studs. I was only running the Z28 springs, 1.6:1 comp roller rockers, and I think the lift was like .480" on the cam.

I did later build a 400hp small block and used the Rhodes hydraulic lifters, they took some of the lope away but didn't improve the idle vacume??? never could undersand how that worked. Still I liked them.

Wish I could have gone mechanical roller cam/lifters with a belt drive and aluminum heads, but man that stuff was EXPENSIVE 10 years ago!

Nothing we can't fix with photoshop! :lol:

Won't be a pretty site :lol:.

Yes they came oem with shaft rockers but the MP heads I got have the pushrod holes moved over for a bigger port window and the only company besides T&D that would make a set with the offset I needed was jesel. They are way over kill so are the heads but I wanted the ability to go to a solid roller cam(550lbs open) and more cubes but at the time the R3 blocks are way too much and the XR blocks weren't out yet. The car gets me were I need to go for now. Kinda taking a break from it.

I know what you mean about driveshafts. When I first put the 340 in after taking a mild 360 out I blew the driveshaft taking out some thrust washers in the trans a busting something in the new coan converter. 2 weeks and 1500 later I had it going again. That was my first trans I have ever fully done and I still have nightmares about it but I have over 20K miles on it and it works perfectly.

Oh since this is a rc forum....what fan would work with the MM? Does the MM have a port to hookup a fan or do I have to get the power from my receiver?

Hmm, now to find a good clear pic of lutach? Maybe in shorts? Is phototshop good enough to clean up hairy legs!

Man I have got to get some new material, but the though of a grown man playing with rc cars in a dress just makes me smile!

Was that picture in RCX yours linc? If so I got photoshop up and ready to do some damage first :rofl:.

Got the MM today and hooked it all up. Was impressed how easy it was and how good it works; no cogging or anything else. Here are a couple pics. I'm still trying to figure out what fan and what connectors I need to plug into the receiver pack for power. Any suggestions?

Looking good.

speed demon, do you need a fan yet? (assuming you have a temp gun), can you run it hard then post up some temps?

I use a sunon fan from digikey.com it's 5v's but does just fine on 6v. It's $11.57 plus shipping so I'm sure there are cheaper alternitives, I just wanted the best spec's possible for a 20x20x10mm fan. If you want I'll find the link.

I got my first run in and I'm not happy with it. The temps on the motor were131 max but the controller was 219 and it shut down on me twice. Also top speed with same gears, lipo, ect... was alot slower. Am I programing it wrong? What is a good setup on the controller? Also the lipo was the same temp. as normal.

what speed is it geared to? You may need to gear up some. I would think that ~40mph should be close for a starting point. Remember that 6 pole motor makes tons of torque so tall gears will not make it unhappy. The esc will be switching overtime with small pinions causing it to heat up.

If I remeber correcly the high pole count motors like more timing and more punch control. I'll get that fan info for you in a bit.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=259-1319-ND they have gone up in price, but still the best fan out there in my opinion... Do a search and you should find the novak fan guys are using pretty easy, I think it was like $6-7.

But go with gears first! In car terms it's like a big block (high torque, low hp) and a small block (low torque, high hp). If you gear the small block with 2.98:1 rear end it's a dog. If you give the small block 4.56:1 gears it can spool up fast and hauls butt. If you give the big block 4.56:1 gears it cant spool up fast enough and the car is a dog. Give it 2.98:1 gears and it will pull right through them making the car fly :)

You now have a big block. Gear it accordingly.

OK I have a 28pin which I will try. I was just baffled because both motors are 3500kv. I figured that they would have the same top speed with everything else being equal. Where did I go wrong with that thinking? One last note the new motor draws more power then before. During our ten minute races I usually pull 2800mah but this time it pulled 3600mah.

Heat is produced by waised wattage. In other words your MM was acting like a 300watt heater and an ESC :(

The difference in the two motors is the pole count. The 2 pole motors don't produce as much torque but they spool up well and have good high end power. The 6 pole motors make tons of torque and bottom end power but the get less efficient at higher RPM's.

Lots of gear should bring the rustler around.

What settings were you running on the MM? I'm guessing by the sound of the lack of top end speed you are at full throttle and max rpm alot?

The teps should be fairly even for the ESC, Batt, and Motor. With the motor being a little warmer than the rest. Seems like 140*f is the max acceptable for all the components.

Holy crap I'm a moron. It's all my fault for it not working right. When I first turned it on I had to do the whole radio thing. After I did that the forward was reverse and visa versa. Not really thinking too much about it I just flipped the channel switch on the radio. During the first run with the guys I didn't use my brakes but later(during lunch) I was out back bashing around the RR tracks and noticed that when I hit the brakes that it goes into reverse. That got me thinking then it hit me I had the wires to my motor backwards. I set it up to have 75% brakes so there for I was only running 75% forward with the wires backwards. Man I feel stupid.

There was a spare fan at work the right size so I'm using it but it is made for 12V so it doesn't push much air but it mounted perfectly so at least I know the size I need.

Thanks for all the help...much appreciated.

Last questions. If I do get dirt and stuff into the motor can I simply use cleaner that's made for the brushed motors? Same process?

the mega is sick! i love mine. run it in a revo on 3s geared for only 40. it is crazy strong. loads better then feigao

Don't know about the brushed cleaner? I use a shop vac (never compressed air, it pushes stuff into the bearings). Once in a while take the motor out and make sure it spins free, you can get bad bearings or iron filings stuck on the rotor (like putting a magnet in the sand, you pick up stuff).

You ran it long enough to get new temps yet?

Nope will have them tomorrow. I have a ton of cycles on my lipo and will be getting a new one in the near future. I've had such great luck with the milehighrc pack that I don't want to get anything else but I've be considering a 4S and he doesn't have them in 4000mah. Doing the math the motor is a max rpm of 44k and a 4s will be over that but I've read here before that a motor normally doesn't reach its max rpm becaues of drag and what not. Also the MM has a setting for a 4S lipo cutoff...does that mean it can handle it? I ordered a fan and terminals today so it should be in next week. The fan is 40mm square but that's the fan size that mounted great. It's 5v and pushes 6cfm. Should that be enought to cool it?

Do you have the ubec yet? if so the MM should take the 4S just fine, lots of guys running that way. You HAVE to have the ubec for 4S or else the internal bec will get to hot.

6cfm is very respectable, again though you'll realy have to have the ubec, the wattage the fan pulls will make it even harder on the bec.

No I haven't gotten a ubec yet. If I stay with a 3S would there be any difference in run time or performance if I got one? Or is this more a thing for longevity of speed control? Sorry for all the questions but all these electronics just baffles me. TIG welding and muscle cars is about the extent of my knowledge.

Tig welding (soooo jelous, I know how, but have no access to one now that I live in Colorado :(

The ubec will put out more amps without dropping in voltage like the internal bec, so your servo's and fan will perform better even on 3S. Also the internal bec is set to 5v and the ubec is adjustable (via the caslt link-not the usb cable for your mm- castle link) so you can set it to 6v, or I like 6.2v because when you load it down it sets right a 6v...
So when you see the servo spec's at 5 and 6v you get an idea of the difference in performance. The ubec will help some with the ESC temps even on 3S, and alot more on 4S (BrianG has done some tests on the performance/heat of the internal bec, you can find it if you do some searching of his posts/threads).

Glad you found a problem (with the settings). I'd still highly recoment the taller pinion gears though, you'll notice a big difference, that mega is a torque monster.

I just tried to find it but no luck. To summarize; even on 3s the internal BEC heated up quite a bit with a very small load (less than 0.5A). On 2s it was fine.

ANY linear BEC has two enemies: high load current and high battery voltage (vs the 5/6v output). An increase in either (or both) of these values results in lots of heat. A 4s setup with a 2A load will generate around 17 watts of wasted power. Not good on such a small circuit. For anything over 2s or 7 cells, use a UBEC.

I finally got another run in and the power was awesome(much better then before). It's harder to control then the vxl and I honestly couldn't even make a full power pass going down the road, it was just floating then a slight wind came and I kept spinning out as I was trying to get full power. The MM shut me down once and the temps were 221, motor was 141 which is higher then before so I might try going back to the 26pin. Over all I'm very pleased and will be even happier when my fan comes in.