Okay the 12020 BK is your next choice.

I can get a few good runs, then it shuts off. Then i give it a little throttle and it goes a sec and shuts off.

How is the programing on bk's? Is the controller big as far as size.

Its big, but only little more than the mgms.

Is programing easier?

The 8s is only rated for 81 amps. The 8012 should handle that. Some one else had problems with the mgm. It was close to your problem. Maybe different though. Just wish I could remember who. It was around this forum somewhere. Pm mike there big air see what he says about this. Good luck with problem. I hope you get it fixed.

What about the 9920?

Coolhandcountry - A Feigao 8L is rated near 80amps. In my buggy on 4s Lipo, my 9918 would get pretty hot. Ratings don't really mean much, as motors can easily pull more or less current than they are rated for.

The 9920 would be able to handle the 8s with ease. But you won't get any of the programming features that the MGM controller has.

Features? Like what, I can't even really figure out if I'm doing the basic features down pat> :)

The MGM is customizable in terms of brake strength, motor timing, acceleration strength, LVC, etc. The 9920 can only have its motor timing changed via a computer cable, and that's it!

Bigair, have you tried a few different programming parameters(like cells, cutout mode, etc.)?. I think it is cutting out due to voltage drop or amp draw. What cells are you using? Do you remember what settings you have programmed?

Also, if you need help with the programming, we can work this out. It is pretty easy once you do it once or twice with success. The first try, it is a giant PITA, though.

GP3300 new cells. Match from SMC. Yeah, I'll get with you guys to figure the programming. I'm going to reprogram tomorrow night when I get off and tell you the beeps.

Do they make a program cable I can buy that would make this easier? If so, how much?

The controllers are not yet programmable via computer link, but when this is possible, the newer controller can be upgraded. LMK if you need live assistance with the programming. sometimes it is just easier to talk you through it rather than walk you through it via messages.

I really didn't like the idea of the 8s being sucking lots of amps, but now that Mike is here, things will be much easier for you. We hope.

With the 20120 (not the warrior, but the other 20120, there are two types of 20120's right now..) you can get the programming cable. Mike, That warrior, doesn't it work on the program cable? I thought it did?

I haven't posted in a while so I just read this .I run the 9918 with a lehner 5300. This setup pushed my bandit to well over 60 mph on 8 GP cells.

With M2k's and normal gearing you would be well over 40 mph on 7 cells with the 5300. My lehner 4200 pushed even my pede over 40 mph on 7 cells and normal gearing(18/87 or so) , with massive torque also.

I know this is late advice ,sorry. I hope you figure out your programming. Good luck.

Hey nut. It is better late than never.
Keep me straight captian. I know it is a hard job.
Hope mike helps you get it straight big air.

Huh, what did you say?!

Keep me straight. Don't let me get out of control. Make sure i keep facts right. That help.

@rccarnut.. You happen to have a movie from that little monster? from what i've seen on a basic 4200 on 8 cells in a RS4MT, it is a blast.. It has got endless power, so that 5300 must be pretty mad....

The warrior also works with the programming cable, but it does not have as many settable features(can adjust acceleration, timing, and a couple other things on the warrior).

Okay, I reprogrammed and see if this sounds correct.

-Hold full throttle until it beeps 3 times. Then full brake.

-Then full throttle again to get in to parementer mode. beeps 3x -put in neutral and motors beeps 2x.

-Move throttle to full brakes-1x beep- throttle back to neutral 2x beeps- full throttle then 3x beeps- back to neutral- 2x beeps. Now set to car mode.

-After this I just kept pulling full throttle and got 3 beeps and the 2 beeps to get through each parementer until it stops. (I don't know what parementers to really change)

- I then cut it off and back on and it works.

Can't really test it out. Between the dew and the mosquitos I'll wait. Does this sound right though?

Thanks for all the help guys.

according to this

with this;

you restore the parameter defaults.

After that it should (be) shut down, i don't know what it does with the rest of the parameters you are giving it..

Mosquitos are a plaque here too.. I don't understand the meaning of their lifes either..

That sounds right, bigair.

Ok, here is the deal. After programing the truck doesn't have all the problems as before. But it does still have the cut off problem when I give it full throttle. If I ease into it I don't have the trouble. So I am guessing it is the current limiter? I'm geared 18/84. Any thoughts of how to help this? Other than going up to the 160amp.

Make sure you are in the "reduce rpm" setting. If you are in race mode or cut-off at 5v, the esc will cut power to the motor. Also, make sure both capacitors are intact. You could add extra capacitors and that may do the trick.

How do you select a different setting? Hitting the brake while in programming?

Follow the directions and input the forward trigger as many times to set it into reduce RPM mode. Or, you could put it into "race mode" where there is no LVC effect.

Hey Bigair, I just found the same thread at www.radiocontrolzone.com and I just wanted to know where did you find it better to get answers and suggestions? Here or there?

Did you tried a different set of batteries?

I have found more help here.

As for the batteries it happens on most of my gp's but not as bad on my cheap cells.

The cheap cells don't push the amps to it.

It sounds to me like a damaged capacitor on your speedo..

The pulses that the controller takes from the batteries are deadly (temporary ) for the voltage of the batteries. (batteries simple can't stand any high frequency pulse load) .A capacitor absorbs those pulses and makes it a nice and easy on the batts clean amp draw. When a capacitor dies, it is no longer able to absorb those pulses, and may cause in what you are suffering.

However it also might have got something to do with the BEC on your speedo. you could exclude both things;

one by adding a capacitor to your circuit and two to use a seperate receiver pack.

How can you tell if the cap. is bad? I don't have a receiver pack to test that either.

You could add another one. Make sure its a fast one, the types used in computer power supplies are the ones you need.

A simple test would tell.. (or you must have got an C tester, but this requires removing the cap from the speedo..)

Usually, the caps heat up when in use. If one cap is significantly warmer than the other, then the other is bad or disconnected. When I reconfigured my mgm 120, one of the capacitors came loose and I lost all servo control under acceleration and throttle control was way out of sync.