other than the obvious of converting to 2nd gear only, there is nothing to gain is there? i mean, i might as well just leave the 2 gears in there and if i want to try and craw on some rocks or something. other than that, i see no need in taking the 1st gear out.

pros? cons?

Pros = no shift servo
Cons = no 1st gear for slow speed

if you go the whole hog and get the fully gorillamaxx single speed kit, you do save a fair bit of weight and space, but that requires a bit more work to complete. I never had a functioning 2spd gear box, locked it into second before I even started and have never looked back.

ya, i see no point in doing it. i havent used 1st gear at all. well, i only ran for 45 min but still. i see no point. i think if i lost the stering servo, i could mount my reciever on that side. i have the MMM where the reciver was and took out the evx. now all is up front. i will take some better pics tommorow when i install everything and show you guys what im running.

is there any pics of a stock tranny converted to 2nd gear i can look at when i make this change? anyone have a link???

Those'll work far better than those you linked from Ebay! I bought ofna diffs from a guy on UE for $80 - same ones UE includes in their 6 spyder Ultralights.

After you get diffs and pinions, find some shims and set them up right. If you've never done it, go over to UE and find their setup instructions for theirs - well documented, lots of pics, and easy to understand. Once you see these, you'll know what need to do for yours.

huh? the pics of the combo diffs are from ebay, yes. and those are the ones i got. i am confused, what are you saying here?


edit: i cant find that write up. link?

If you hop over to my website, I have detailed pics in the TXT-1 and Gmaxx sections of the tranny being converted to single speed, both with the full tranny still, and the gmaxx single speed conversion.

i looked around and only found this pic.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...llaMaxx/83.jpg

is there detailed instructions anywhere? sorry i couldnt find them

The diffs in the red alum cases from a while back (your ebay link in your posting #21) - just stock maxx diff parts assembled in a set of alum diff cases - the combo bulks you picked up will be much better than those, obviously.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/instructions.shtml Go down 11 or 12 items to the Ultralites and click on V1.5 - that opens a pdf - UEs build instructions. Save it to your PC, print it or whatever you want to do.

sweet thanks!

Bloody useless.... :wink:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...lespeedmod.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...earboxopen.jpg

Just install the coupler into the 2nd gear... gear, and remove the drive dog and shifter fork. Leave the 1st gear-gear in place, or use 3 bearings as a spacer to prevent the whole output shaft from sliding back & forth inside the tranny case. $18 for the coupler I believe, and no other modifications required.

thanks for the pics bro!!


i have some updates on progress. new combo bulks installed. same issue. i notice if i unplugged everything from the motor and tried it a few times, the motor would cogg too.

some pics of the new combo bulks..

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02136.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02137.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02138.jpg

and here is the video of my problem.. again, as you can see it is cogging while not connected to anything.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i108.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid108.photobucket.com/albums/n9/tha5150/MOV02150.flv">

You have either a blown phase in your ESC or motor. Could be a short or cold solder joint somewhere too.

i will go home today and re solder the 3 wires and pray that fixes it. :diablo: if not, how to i figure out if it is the MMM or the Motor?

If it was a blown phase, you'd think you'd have trouble ALL the time. Seems to cogg then run right. Yeah, at least you can make sure all your connections are ok...

Brian, thanks for your input.

if i go home, solder the bullets, and the problem persist.... how can i rule out the MMM or Motor?

Try a different motor- if it still cogs, then the esc or wiring is at fault. If the problem goes away, you know there is something up inside the motor.

all i have is an EVX and 1 Titan. the other is blown.

Tha,
Where you located? Maybe one of us is close and you can try a temp swap to see if it is motor or ESC.

Thread steal :) If anybody knows of a good deal for UE or equivilent Diff let me know I blew my rear, I need something that will standup to a Medusa 36 60 1600 V2

PM please so that THA can have his thread back

Highflier

lol, i dont mind the stealing. lol.

i just got the FLM ones you saw in this post on ebay with stock diffs. but my thoughts are this. UE is polished, FLM is not. same everything else. just get the FLM combo bulks for 120 new and be happy with them.. just my $0.02... mine look awsome.

Yea but I was looking for a deal. 120 + 40 + 40 ish for the internals Now I am up in the several hundred range. Almost makes me think I should bail and get a new brushless ready e-revo or e-maxx

You never did mentoin what city your in. If your local to me I would be happy to have you stop by and trouble shoot it, I have a few parts that we could use as a test.


Highflier

oh ya, thats no possible but thank you! i am in south florida. i wish there was someone else around here that could troubleshoot it. DickyT knows the problem but it is always good to have a second set of eyes on any problem.

as for your price problem, you might be right. for what it takes you to upgrade the bulks and diffs, you can almost get an e-revo or something. but then you will have to upgrade that, obviously. heh. it never stops man, its the sport.

Where in South Florida? I live in Sunrise.

I've found that BL motors, if they aren't secured, will cog when you power 'em up. I think it's because the ESC tries to kick the rotor, and instead of the rotor moving, the case tries to roll around the rotor, and yes, it will cog. Hold that sucker down tight and see if it does the same thing.

As for blown phases, if you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the phases. You should get the same reading within 10%. If you have a lab-type power supply, you can do a similar test, except you set the power supply up to supply 8A of power through each phase. The voltage reading should be within 10% here too. The first way is a good quickie test. The second way is more of a load test, it may show differences you won't see with the first method.

I'm not so sure that holding it loose or tight will make a difference with respect to cogging because the rotor is turning with respect to the windings no matter what is held stationary.

To add to what sleebus said; when you use your ohm meter, expect VERY low readings (or what the meter considers continuity) since the windings are in the 0.01-0.001 ohm range. You'll probably see just the resistance of your test leads. :smile: No matter what, the reading across each phase should be the same.

You can take a AA battery and touch it across each phase. When you do this, the shaft will turn a little. Each phase should turn the same amount and speed.

I don't really think it's a fully blown phase though since the motor does turn.

It could be partially burnt out at the very least (how many strands of wire are in the Neu motors per coil? Maybe a strand or two is disconnected or burnt for some reason). Or if one or two FETs on the ESC are blown in one phase, then the motor would probably still run, but that one phase would probably cause issues on startup, but it would still be able to spin a decent amount of RPM under no load since not a whole lot of current at all will be drawn as compared to trying it in the truck on the ground.

ok first off. thanks for the updated info and checking scenarios.

FIve-oh-Joe: i am at 10th and federal. maybe we could get together tommorow to trouble shoot this beotch? pm me your number and i will call you if thats cool!!!

i definatly want to check this out to find my problem. use a different ESC and a different motor to eliminate the problem. i wouldnt doubt it was the MMM, then again, this is all sounding like the 8XL motor. Joe, maybe you could help me out with this??

Sent you a PM back, but I looked at the PM before this post, so I forgot my number....damn... I'll PM my cell to you in a few minutes.:oops:

Like I said in the PM though, tomorrow is probably undoable for me. Some time during the week or next weekend may be easier though (depends on if I can get a job this week, and a few other stupid things....heh).

What does DickyT think the problem is? And what is this about an 8XL that you were having issues with? In the meantime, if you can crack the motor open and see if any windings are shorted or sliced, maybe that will give you a general idea as to whether it's the motor.

yes the motor turns.

how do i test the AA method exactly? touch one end of the battery to one wire and the other end of the battery to another wire? making sure to touch the +end of the battery to all three wires? i want to do this tonight to eliminate the motor. but then, how can i test the MMM to make sure that isnt the problem or make sure the MMM and the motor are both bad. just my luck.

I thought it was mechanical until now, now I have no clue as i have never had to troubleshoot the non obvious. My issues have always been mechanical, very obvious (look at the pics of my quark I posted somewhere), or easilly determined with the help of you guys (bad bec in my MMM).


I am at a loss here and can help him no further.

ya, great help you are DickyT, great help.. thanks for NOTHING!!!

;)

Gotcha. At first I thought it was between a diff issue and a motor/ESC issue. But I guess after looking at those diff gear pictures, I'm definitely leaning more towards motor/ESC. I wonder if the MMM has an achilles heel!:gasp:

Well now my friend, you are on your own... good luck.....:na:

I think Dicky T needs some help getting that knife out of his back.....:lol: