Did the previous owner stick it in a blender?

Nice repair job Arthur :yes:

Artur, Great job with evader's ESC.
Hopefully you can help me too. I have a 15020 that is cogging horribly. I have tried everything in thread with no help. It also does something wierd. If I remove the BEC (black jumper) the ESC does not work at all. Have you ever had that problem?

What are you using to power the reciever when you disable the BEC ? Perhaps your UBEC or RX pack is not supplying power correctly to the RX ?

I am using a 4 cell pack of AA's.

A Rx pack or a quality BEC device is your best bet. I use Rx pack for most of my over 3S set up.

PM sent.

I will check for 5-6V at red wire on ESC's interface cable. If you do not have correct voltage here then ESC would be in Off state.

To all:

Thank you for comments,

I received my stuff back from GriffinRU on Monday and it looks great...looks brand new!!

I am still having a problem programming it though. I follow the steps for programming it that I found on this site. I pull the red jumper off and then plug the batteries in. After 5 seconds it beeps and I'm supossed to give it full throttle and then it's supossed to beep again then I'm supossed to give it full reverse and it beeps again. Well it beeps the first time after I plug in the batteries but after I give it full throttle it doesn't beep or do anything at all.
Even when I hook up the batteries without taking the red jumper off it beeps like it's in programming mode.
It's probably something simple that I'm doing or not doing but I can't figure it out...can anyone help me? I was hoping to get it to the track tonight to get it set up for our club race on Sunday.

Thanks

Have you tried a receiver pack yet? I have also heard BK's prefer 5v over 6v. What is your ubec running at?

Can you publish a picture of your setup-testing?
If I remember correct BK-Electronics ESC's were sensative to TX channel polarity, can you reverse it?

Ok, so I figured out that it wouldn't program until I reversed the direction of the throttle on my radio. So now it will go through all the steps of programming...however it keeps going through those steps now. What I mean is even if I don't take the "little red jumper" off to program it it is always in the programming mode (even when the "little red jumper" is still on). What the heck is going on??? Am I missing something?

Here's some pictures.

Good, I was correct on channel polarity.
Next step, why you are still in programming mode?
-Check if red jumper actually shorting two pins together, sometimes metal clip inside jumper falls out.
-Make sure that you turn power off after you put jumper back on, not oppoiste.
-Cross your fingers :)

<TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 187546" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=left>krunk</TD></TR><TR><TD class=alt2 align=left>Have you tried a receiver pack yet? I have also heard BK's prefer 5v over 6v. What is your ubec running at?</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I soldered UBEC directly to ESC power plugs and disable internal BEC. BK ESC prefers 5v only when internal BEK is not disabled, I cannot see any component inside which would cost a grif at 6v. Let me know if I am missing something.

it doesn't appear that the 2 pins are touching each other or anything like that.

I don't understand what is wrong with it when it worked for you when you tested it?

Just to make sure I have everything plugged in properly...the steering servo plugs into spot 1 in my receiver, the ESC goes into spot 2 in the receiver and the UBEC goes into the battery spot...is that correct?

Sorry for confusion, two pins need to be shorted when red jumper installed, if the jumper is bad then controller would be always in programming mode. Make sure that your jumper are good or replace it with known good one.

I'm pretty sure it is going to work for you as well, there is nothing wrong with ESC.

All the connections are correct, just to make sure you are getting all 3 beeps for entering in programming mode, for full power and for full reverse.

Artur

is there somewhere I can purchase just the jumper to see if that's the problem?

Just short to pins together with bare wire, that should prevent you from entering into programming mode and will check jumper as well. You testing with 12cell's NiMh, right?

ok, I will try that when I get home from work today.

Yes, 12 cells and they are NiMh

I just noticed when I was taking the little red jumper off that one of the 2 pin wires isn't soldered to the esc. Here's a picture....I've circled the one that isn't soldered on there.

Could that be why it is always in the programming mode?

Can you get better focused shot?

It's hard because of the glare from the shrink wrap...but here's what I was able to get. The first one shows where it is supposed to be (I think) and the second picture shows that I can just pull it out...I could pull it out all the way if I wanted to...

That is how it should look like:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1215135100
And looks like you correct the wire is loose...not good.
You can try to resolder or attach this loose wire to black (negative) battery lead connector.

how exactly would I connect it to the black battery lead connector? It's not really long enough

Black wire sticking out of the ESC is right there you do not need to go all the way to the battery, sorry if I wasn't clear.

took the shrink wrap off and this is what mine looks like. Notice how the green is missing from the circuit board where the red wire is supposed to be soldered on? Where am I supposed to solder the wire...onto that little round metal part the arrow is going to in the picture?

I don't think it's so much of you not being clear as me not really knowing what I'm doing.
Sorry for all the pictures...but again I don't really have a clue what I'm doing so I want to make sure I do it right.

So I can take that lose red wire and solder it to the black battery lead that is coming out of the esc...like the arrow is showing in the picture?

Why you do that?, but you have done that...
It would be hard and as you noticed it doesn't stay there, so no.
Try to solder to black power wire which is on opposite side of ESC, but do not try solder to pcb unless you confident with your soldering skills. I would recommend to strip wire and solder far from ESC and heatshrink or tape it.

Yes, this is correct.

took the shrink wrap off because I thought I was going to have to solder it back on...already wishing I didn't take it off :neutral:

So should I solder it to where the black wire is soldered to the esc?

Strip wire where white arrow points and solder there, it would be hard to solder directly to pcb.

-or if it helps try to solder to the brown wire (blue arrow) from 3-pin rx-cable, same ground reference.

Awesome...thanks man. I will do that tomorrow and let you know if that solves the problem :great:

sorry, one more question...what's the best way to strip the wire in the middle like I need to?

Razor blade, two round cuts and one longitude cut.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

well it appears the other jumper has come un-soldered aswell:grrrrrr:

Since the first one is going to the black battery lead does that mean the other one can go to the red battery lead?

Hold on!
What other jumper???
Do not apply any power before attaching picture. Do not solder in random order.

the red one that isn't being pointed to in this picture has now come un-soldered

I am just wondering what you do to the controller...
Send it back I will fix it and epoxy everything around, so you can pull entire truck by wires.
If anything this last, unmarked wire, must be soldered to the tiny SMD resistor, cannot be soldered anywhere else. But then you can crack it if not done properly, carefully.

sent you a PM