So, is this controller more 5s capable than a MM? I have had great success on 4s with the MM, but have considered going 5s on my buggy (not sure I want to try it with MM, older one with fan).

Well mike's mod'ed one gave out smoke at the weekend on 5s...

The older MM are more likely to take 5s - I know jeff runs them on 5S and I now run my Truggy on 5s since the MMM died.

I'm actually debating if I'll bother to swap back...

Wait..... I'm confused. Mikes moded MM or moded R1Pro gave out the smoke. He has the only other GriffinRU R1Pro that I know of and I would really be disapointed to hear it died on him. I think you are talking about the MM though.

My experience with the R1Pro is even in stock form 5s is no issue for it as long as you have a proper 35V capacitor installed. So IMO yes it is more 5s capable than the MM The MM is hit or miss on running 5s. I have one MM that works perfectly on 5s with the LVC and everything, one MM that will run 5s with the LVC as long as the 5s pack is only charged to 4.15v/cell rather than 4.2v/cell, and one MM that wont boot on anything over 4s at all, period.

Sounds like hit or miss with them too as well as the MM.

Any mods to your MM on 5s (or jeffs')? All I have so far is a fan (older MM), runs real cool on 4s though.

No mods on any of my MMs. Just a 25mm fan and an external BEC. They are all older ones though. I dont have any of the newer versions.

I believe Arct1k is referring to Mike running a modded mamba max(and frying it Sunday on 5s) not a modded R1pro. Last time I saw Mike(not Sunday, I sadly missed going to the Barn with them), he was running a modded mamba max(on 5s) in his 8t.

Bye:mdr:

No it was mikes R1Pro that gave smoke out (not at the barn on friday/sat IIRC) - The guess was it moved and may have shorted against the case.

Mikes MM was playing up aswell on 5s at the weekend to - It kept thermalling on him - He was using an UBEC and fan but no extra cap...

I am saving up to buy one!

I also think the bottom case should have some tabs or something on it. Id rather screw it into my chassis, rather then shoe goo or something

I had phone conversation with Mike and we are not sure what happen to ESC, besides smoke and short. We do know the place where short happen, maybe related to pcb motion (I used different method for keeping pcb's from moving inside, when I built Jeff's ESC) inside. Aluminum cover was well insulated inside from shorts to power fet's boards, but apparently I missed something on brains side.
I will give you updates on Friday, but one thing for sure it is not related to overload or thermal and I am pretty sure Fet's are good.
Newer enclosure would have better layout and there is no reason to use heatsink grease on the bottom, I can use silver epoxy to fix pcb's from motion inside the box.

In future we are going to have much better cases (top and bottom) anodized and pcb's are permanetly attached to case with mounting tabs.

Jeff, Thank for you time and feedback.

I will be ready to buy one in later aug

Either way, im running one! No doubt.....

Artur,

You are an artist when it comes to modifying ESC. I can't wait to see your own creations. I have something for you to fix for me. I have a nice 60A controller that was working wonderful in my Recoil with my Mega ACn16/15/1, but I changed the timing on the controller by mistake and it fried a couple of FETs. The controller uses the On Semi's NTMFS4833N and I would like to know if there's a better replacement for it. Sorry to bring an off topic item to this thread.

So, can I get a modified R1Pro from Mike?

How costy is it?

I really like that heatsink with mounting tabs that the ESC is mounted to. :yes: Do you know where I can get one of these? Or do they sell them at most hardware shops?

Honestly I have no idea where I got it.:neutral: It just happend to be laying in my parts bin and it fit perfectly. I couldnt get another one if I wanted it.

Artur how far off are you from selling these modded R1 Pros .
I have communicated with you over PM at RCTech but since then i have fried my MM trying to run it on 5s in my X2 conversion.
I have backordered two MMM V2 ( second one for my RC8 conversion) but if your not too far off i will cancel one of the MMM back orders.

I received blown ESC from Mike, and this one is tricky, after checking it out I am still not sure what happen...I can clearly see the short on brains pcb but where it came from not clear. Fet's looks good but not tested, brains are toast. I cannot see how new enclosure can do that, but something triggered this event. It is possible that short happen via mounting screws and enclosure, weird but very possible if screws touching pcb. I am going to study layout further and work on new enclosure with mounting tabs and fins.

Give me a week or two, this weekend was loaded with couple MM's and Quark's mods. I would like to fix blown one for Mike and then let him re-test the mod. I am pretty sure he would get good results, but I want to be 100% sure that enclosure design is perfect and flaws free, while ESC itself is great.

Artur,

Should I be expecting a similar occurance with my ESC?

So far everything is still looking great. Just wondering if there is anything you see that would make you think I might have the same result.

Totally understand Artur , good to see you are making sure these are 100% before selling .
Great that these are going to have some kind of mounting option.
Looking forward to trying one out :yes:

Hi Jeff,
While I am in the woods, in terms of what happen to Mike's ESC, I would recommend to pop the top cover and apply couple drops of 5-minute epoxy on all three sides in-between ESC pcb's and enclosure. This will reinforce pcb's assembly position within enclosure. Entire pcb assembly can be moved inside if you pull hard by wires or by vibration, original plastic cover has support ribs to hold pcb's in-place, ours proto-runs didn't.

Or you can send it to me and I will check it out, yours was modified slightly different.

Artur,

You are an artist when it comes to modifying ESC. I can't wait to see your own creations.

OT: I have something for you to fix for me. I have a nice 60A controller that was working wonderful in my Recoil with my Mega ACn16/15/1, but I changed the timing on the controller by mistake and it fried a couple of FETs. The controller uses the On Semi's NTMFS4833N and I would like to know if there's a better replacement for it. Sorry to bring an off topic item to this thread.

Hi Luciano,
I do not have any particular part number in my mind, haven't looked yet for better replacement, but at current moment 4833 FET at 5S is hard tro beat performer.
Onsemi has a newer fet in the same form factor with enhanced thermal properties but so far I cannot find how it is better then 4833.
While DPak-7 is still thes best, but that wasn't the question. right?
You need to be very good with control circuit, while talking to DPak-7 and I am not sure what you are looking for either so far.
Bottom line for 5S ESC I do not have any better fet then 4833.
Anything better then that requires pcb layout with super heavy copper or different approach for power leads.

Patrick is not helpfull here, at least for me, he likes to talk but in reality he is just a business-man... I guess he is very proud of his 11 million business

P.S. I am TUI :)

I need a ESC to be fixed. It's a small 60A controller that uses the OnSemi's 4833. I burned a couple (Maybe a few) and I would like to get it fixed, but I wanted to know if there's a better MOSFET out there. The ESC that I have is only rated for 3S (Maybe 4S) and I don't want to send it all the way to China.

Regards.

Send it to me i'll fix it for you...

Ok, but do you have the FETs there? I haven't been able to find small amounts of the 4833 and that's why I asked if there's a better FET available.

Regards.

I thought you can provide parts:)

You can get samples from ON Semiconductor...

I do not have them.

I can, but for large quantities. I'll give my rep a call tomorrow to get some samples. He'll be a bit shocked :lol:.

Artur,

I have the 4833 coming in probably tomorrow.

Please look at the following datasheets:

http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/BSC014N...1a38f5a96704e8
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/BSC016N...13de4a19bb0334
http://www.st.com/stonline/products/...l150n3llh5.pdf
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NTMFS4833N-D.PDF

Which one looks to be the best out of the 4 listed? This is what I was asking before, if there's better MOSFET then the 4833.

Artur sorry to hijack , R1 Pro is on the way which i will want to get modded like Jeffs .
Check your PMs from yesterday:wink: , i will send you my MM to get modded when i get that back i will then send you the R1 pro.

Artur,

I have the 4833 here with me and will ship it and the esc out to you soon.

Regards.

Edit: I sent you an e-mail with confirmation number Artur.

Mike's ESC is operational again
 

Well, as promised, Mike's ESC is fixed and ready for testing again.
Still not clear what went wrong with brains pcb...

Meanwhile, I am in process of moving, so cannot accept any orders until I am done and my place is ready.
I am hoping to be back in October.

Just a little update on the GriffinRU R1Pro I am running. Ran it again this weekekend at round 3 of the Prarieland Shootout. Once again It ran with no issues. Temped a 154F on the esc after the 15 minute B main. This is with no fans at all. So all is good. I dont forsee ever removing this spedo from my 808. :mdr:



If anything changes I'll let you guys know, but to date this by far my favorite 1/8 buggy race esc.

How much of an improvement is the modified version over running an out of the box version with the upgraded cap?

I'm loving the hell out of my R1 Pro to the point of recomending them to everybody and ordering five more. I'd be interested in having the mods done to all of them if reasonably priced and improved performance.

Thats a hard question to answer exactly. I ran it before the mod mostly on the indoor track in the winter when it was much colder and got similar temps. This last weekend the modified esc got a pretty good workout and temped very well at only low to mid 150's with no fan after the 15 minute main. Thats pretty good even for the big escs I was ruinning. Edumakated was running his buggy in the same conditions on 4s rather than 5s and getting higher tmeps on his MMM without a fan. The 4s may have been harder on the esc than 5s as far as heat goes though so, if I had to compare it I would say it is at least as good as the MMM without a fan.

Not sure if that helps you or not.

Keep running it as is. If you have temp problems then have Artur mod it. He out of buisness for a bit right now anyway so you might as well run it. By the time he is ready to go again this thing will have been throught the paces a number of times and I should have a better long term assesment. So far its has been stellar for 2 race days. I still havent been to my regular track with it though so that will give me a better sense of how it performs against the MMM.

What cap did you use in the 1st post?
Anyone know what size the G11 Cap is?
http://www.teamtekin.com/cart2/asp/i...11CapSmall.bmp

Here is what Tekin said about using the R1 Pro in 1/8 scale on their Forum
The R1pro is not designed for 1/8 applications, period! However we know that people are using it in these applications so we are offering information to support it. It does work pretty well if you understand what needs to be done. We are working on the Rx8 which is designed for 1/8 scale. We are also working on 1/8 scale motors.

We started this thread just to save us a lot of warranty replacement costs on the R1pro since we know people are using it in 1/8, but do not admit it when they send them in for service. We can't really stop them so we might as well give them information to save us money and save them disappointment. Another reason we are willing to support the R1pro users in 1/8 scale is so we can learn as we go and see what changes need to be made to make the Rx8 the shiznit.

With 4s lipo or higher you must use a larger and higher voltage cap then comes with the units. The cap supplied is only 16V and can be used up to 3s lipo. It is a very impressive little stud, but only 330uf. Even on 2s lipo we recommend 2 in parallel with extreme loads.

We really like the Panasonic FM series. We are offering them in our online cart. You really cannot go to big, but 2 decent sized caps in parrallel is always better. Also critical to keep the leads short. Dangling them on long wires kills most of the effectiveness.

The BEC cannot supply very much power when it has to step down the higher voltages. You must use a separate BEC module and unplug the red wire in the receiver plug.

Many people report that the R1pro handles the 1/8 scales with no heatsink or fans. This is very dependent on your setup, traction and driving style. Outdoor temperatures can also have a large effect. A fan blowing on the solder posts can remove a lot of heat. The solder posts are very good heatsinks since they are directly connected to the power planes.

We have raced competitively in 1/8 buggy and truggy with the R1pro on 4s lipo. Geared to about 45mph and seeing around 15min runtime on 4s, 4800mah lipo batteries. 5s lipo runs cooler, 6s is pushing the fet limits and we do not have much testing at this level.

Please feel free to post your experience and ask questions. We will provide as much good information as we can. Remember this is not really the intended application, but you guys always push the limits and we are willing to support it. If we can not stop it, we might as well join in and learn from it.

That is a 16V 1000uf cap for 2s applications.

The standard cap on the R1 is a 16V 330uf for 2s applications.

We sell...

TT3543 Power Cap 25V 1800uF 5Slipo (2)
TT3544 Power cap 25v 2200uF 5Slipo (2)
TT3545 Power Cap 25V 2700uF 5Slipo (2)

TT3552 Power Cap 35V 1500uF 6Slipo (2)

Short leads and or 2 in parrallel is always good stuff. Mounted securely, these caps leads were not really designed for the abuse of being bounced around.

has anyone tried running a modified r1 on 6s with any luck? would like to try one in my buggy. i have owned many tekins over the years with good luck and in fact still have a functional G12c i purchased when it hit the shelves looooong ago (whenever that was). Other than the caps and the external bec is there a chance this might work?

6s would be pushing it! For sure

It might work, but wrong gearing, or shock will probably fry the thing. If you ran mech brakes, and had it geared conservatively it probably would work!

Modified one would work with 6S with no problem as long as your battery voltage below 27V, otherwise it would clamp it to 27V level.
Stock ones, if you can keep temp down then probably, but I won't recommend that...
And would agree with BlackedOutREVO about setup, keep it conservative and it would work, try to push it - it would fail.

i do use my mechanical brakes and run a 1512 3d at 15/46 in my rc8. was just pondering seeing it actually move on its own again........