That looks pretty sweet. On 18 cells, it should be a beast! Try charging your batteries and see what happens. they could need a few cycles. The glitch could be one or more of several things. The antenna could be touching metal, a capacitor could have come loose on the controller. It could be weak transmitter batteries or a bad servo or receiver or crystal. I would start with the simle things like location of the electronics and go from there.

Hmm.. I think that the antenna is touching the TVP's which are metal :/. Im using a synthesized transmitter/receiver, so no crystals to check :) The servo is fine, the transmitter batteries were just replaced (shows 12.3 volts) all the capacitors are in place, so it must be the batteries. I'll cycle them a few times and if that doesn't help, I'll transplant a receiver from a different car real quick to test it out. It's too late to try anything out though, so I'll give an update tommorow.

The antenna and the batteries may just be the trouble. Lets hope so! Looking forward to your results tomorrow!

Me too! :D Oh, and I also forgot to add that I stripped my plastic spur gear.. two of them. Is it OK to use the metal one that came on the center diff? The plastic ones strip too easily with the cogging and all the torque!

you would need a hardened pinion. if not the pinion wouldnt last long at all.

Does anyone know where I can find a 5mm bore mod 1, hardened pinion then? Preferably 10-12 teeth :) I think this truck is just too heavy to have a plastic spur. Im pretty sure it weighs in excess of 13 pounds, my heaviest truck to date!

Um, here, for one. Go to the storefront site and check out the gears section, I think it's in there.

Better get a plastic spur!

i thought about this option too, with the FLM ext. chassis and the skid as diffholder.. How is the ballance like this?

With 18 cells in the back, the back is a bit heavier. However, if/when I get lipolies this truck should be balanced well.

Dabid, are you sure those are "Hardened" pinion gears? I need a hardened one to stand up to the hardened spur, the plastic spurs just can't handle a truck this heavy!

get those ofna plastic spurs. they will handle the truck for sure. if you tend to brake one, you can get the delrin machined one. (not needed imo) it's not that heavy... and thos ofna spurs are quite something.


you have got a rather light savage. no gearbox, and allmost no aluminium..

somewhere on here i read that if you stip them often try boiling them before you use them. something to do with it making it not so brittle. i think dabid was the one that posted it.

They are tough as nails already..

Yeah, I boiled my Ofna 51 tooth spur for 10 minutes before mounting it, but my lehner 2800xl still managed to strip it somehow.....maybe in one of the crashes or something. I can say that it did soften the teeth up a little, because this time most of the gears were laid over instead of full on sheared.

Hmm.. looks like I'll boil the next spurs that come in the mail.

E-Traxxer, nice savage! I like your center diff and the batterys inside the chassis.

But what is the advantage of the center diff modification? You lost the 2 speed, so will the speed be slower? Did you have to make special drive shafts?

I'm asking this because I have got also an BL savage. But with the 2speed.

I used a center diff because I wanted to shed some wieght and be able to fit the batteries inside the extended chassis. Another advantage of the center diff is that it somewhat improves handling, although it is much tougher on the drivetrain because it does not have a slipper. The speed is probably a bit slower than if I used the two speed, but once I get my new BL setup, I won;t be worrying about speed, just a way to handle it!! I'm going to make a center slipper that will replace the center diff and use the strobe slipper, as well as mount the motor more securely. As for the driveshafts, I went to my LHS and loooked at different dogbones. I used the extended dogbone that came with ny chassis in the back, and a rear dogbone from an X-Factor in the front (116mm I beleive).

I also got out for another test run today at my usual bashing spot. I added a motor brace to make sure that the motor didn't move around with the somewhat flimsy mount. That seemed to fix the spur-stripping porblem, but disaster struck, and I stripoped another one. I was coming off of a jump and the nose went up in the air, so I did a quick reverse throttle (thinking that I didn;t have reverse, just brake), and "CCCKKK", stripped spur.

Thank you for the information E-traxxer!

But I have got a few more questions. How are the temps of the motor and esc? What gearing are you running? What lipo's are you gonna to use? How is the truck handling in the air?

I'm planning to build a custom chassis with custom TVP's and battery holders, just like the emaxx and revo conversion. I pick up a center diff from a 1;8 buggy. This diff doesn't have a slipper. Can you make this easily? Or is this impossible? And what is exactly a strobe slipper. Because on the 2speed I have got a slipper clutch. So what is the difference between these two?

I'm running a 14 tooth pinion and a 51 tooth spur on the 10XL on 18 cells at the moment. The controller gets pretty hot,only the 7020 though, shouldnt have any troubles with the 9920. I'm using some GP3300's right now, but once I finish off my center slipper setup I'm putting in my new 2240 14t on 10s lipoly in there. The lipolies I have are the Maxamps.com 4000 MAH car packs. The truck took a few minutes of jumping to get used to, but once I learned how to jump it, it flew really well, it has pretty even weight distribution, so it usually stays level when I jump it. Since that last update I have taken out reverse on the controller and everything is fine, it runs pretty quick and I'm getting about 20-25 minutes of runtime. If you're using a center diff, you shouldn't really need a slipper, if you want to use a center slipper like something I'm going to use, which is basically just a one gear tranny, you will have to put it together yourself or try the ofna dominator slipper.

I should have the new slipper setup in about a week. I'm currently upgrading the diffs to 6 gear spyders from UE, and after that the only thing I might ened to get is some of the heavy duty dogbones.

Aha, I get the slipper stuff now :)

But did you drive the truck also with the 7XL? Because that is the motor I am gonna use.

I did, but it ran too hot for the gearing/cells I had. If I geared down lower it would have been fine for use.

How's the weight with all the batteries in the front of the truck?

How well does it jump?

OOOOPDATE! Finally got this thing together!! Haven't run it yet, but I'm dying on the inside because I have to wait untill tommorow. :026: I still have to adjust the toe and camber/caster and such. PICS!!

Sorry for the blur on some of 'em.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01277.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01276.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01273.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01274.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01275.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...7/DSC01272.jpg

WOOHOOO!! :004:


RcBros- The batteries are in the back of the truck and it is balanced almost perfectly. It is one of the best jumping trucks I have had :)

Wow, I'm impressed! What motor is that?

Is that 8S i am counting?! :p

Not bad! I was surprised by those LST shocks. We hope to see a video!

That's one of the nicest savvy conversion i've seen. Very cool.

Time for a video don't you think?:p

VERY NICE!:004: !:004: ! we definately need to see a video of it in action :026:

No. It's 10s!!!

Thanks for the compliments. Everyone seems to be begging for a video, so I'll tape the first run of the truck... when I make it.

10S!!! shoot a vid NOW!!!!

:D:D

I'll shoot a vid ASAP, but it will only be on 5s for the sake of the drivetrain!

What kind of motor is that etraxxer? I know it is a lehner but what size.

Wow fantastic conversion, compliments,also I am in order to mount the fastlane parts, comprised the bulkless, wanted to replace the gearbox whit to center diff...

coolhand, im just guessing but it looks like a 1950.

To me it looked shorter. Maybe wrong. I was thinking a 2230.

i doubt it is a 22 series i would say either a 1940 or 1950

i'm pretty sure it's 2240 :)

yup your right. 2240/10 on 10s lipo.

COOL we really need a vid

BADLY need a vid - i'm moving to melbourne this weekend by the looks of it, and don't like PA internet.... spose... if i miss it - i'm going to a library when i get down there! -lol-

Thanks guys! :) It is a 2240 14t on 10s Lipo. I got out for a very late (dark outside) test run. The steering is VERY weak turning to the left, so I'm going to have to investigate. The slipper was too loose to offer any real acceleration or speed, but I'd say it was going about 30 MPH on just 5s Lipo, on 10s it should be insane! I'm going to try to get it fully operational by tommorow, and a vid will come once I get all the bugs worked out.