lol, I seriously dont think there will be alot of flex in a mainly 1/4 aluminum chassis:)

My bad i did'nt know it started out a 1/4 inch, there probably wont be any flew. That said the CF top plate would still look killer :L: .

lol, yeah, I am most likely anodizing the chassis black, and getting red carbon fiber for the top chassis.

Or you can anodize the chassis red, & get black or charcol gray CF. Either way it will look killer. I saw some gold CF a couple weeks a go that would look good also.

i always like blue, blue is teh color of assocaited! Well, to me it is!

Nah, Im not going to get blue. All of my projects I have a red and black color scheme since those are my favorite contrasting colors.

Your red & black color scheme will look great.

Glad you guys like the chassis. That was just a mockup, the final one will look much much better. Crazyphantom had the crazy idea of trying to sand off all the milling marks, which resulted in a matte finish. I would advise him to keep it the way it is for the final one, which will be much more shiny.

When looking at the amps on the lipolys, should I look at the continues, or max? how does it go to max? becasue if it goes to max, the controller (80 amp) wont handle the batts.

Let me know
-Joe

If you base anything off of the number of amps a Lipo can handle, look at the continuous. For a 380C 13t (on 4s Lipo?) something with 35amps continuous capability is enough, and won't get very warm. I run a Rustler with a Feigao 540 12s, which is basically the bigger brother to the 380C 13t (for kv), and I run a 3s 3300mah (33amps continuous) Lipo geared rather high. The motor takes the high gearing, and the highest temp the battery has gotten to is about 115 degrees, well within the limit.

Well I will be running dual packs both wiht a 37.2 amp continous. The packs as 2S, so im guessing 2-2S packs, that the motor will be able to handle it. So if Im looking to buy a 80amp controller, I only have to look for the continous amps coming from the batts then?I am also designing a cooling setup with a couple of fans, that will sit on top of the batteries to keep them cooler.

I'm at school right now, so I will get some more stuff up when I get home.

Don't base anything off of the batteries. Base everything off of the motor that you are running. In your case, you could get away with a controller rated at about 60amps continuous with the Feigao 380C 13t.

You shouldn't need to cool the batteries. In fact, it could be more harmful than helpful. The inner cells of a Lipo will get the hottest, so if you are cooling the coolest cells, then that means that the inner ones will suffer the greatest, causing them to fail earlier.
If a setup is capable of making the batteries hot enough that they need to be cooled, then the batteries aren't capable of handling that setup.

Chassis is being redesigned again because the measurements that starluck posted on their site for the lipolys wernt exact. The chassis should be done in like 20 minutes.

Here we go. FINAL CHASSIS!

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/chassis2.jpg

And here is one with the batteries mounted:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/chassis3.jpg

What you guys think?

I finally completed my motor mount design.

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Motormount.jpg

The weight is .5oz

Should be getting it cut tomarrow hopefully and then I will have some complete pictures.

Let me know what you think.
-Joe

looks good!

*Update*

Here is what the final mount will accually look like. Had to make a few adjustments for strength but it should be fine now.(I also plan on getting it anodized black)

Pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...motormount.jpg

Let me know what you think
-Joe

That motor mount is pretty nice, I need something like that, but I'm cheap and I just use bent metal :P

and with a chamfer..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...otormount1.jpg

E-traxxer, you wouldnt need alot of money for a mount like this. Go to Andrew at Cold Fusion Racing and he will make one like this for about 15$(maybe even cheaper depending on complication)

Would this be a better pick then the MGM 80?
http://www.starluckrc.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=135 if it is better, what is different in the truck Mtronics controller?

I definately wouldn't buy an 8 cell controller,just not as versatile should you want to do some speed runs or something.Definately worth the extra for the MGM i reckon although to be honest i haven't heard much about the Mtronics.

I'm getting a 3s pack with over 1000 watts available for my T1 and that'll be under 1200g RTR so i'd get the MGM or get left behind;) .Just kidding.

Edit;i just saw it says 4s lipo,how's that then? Unless the 8 cells NimH is a misprint.

yeah, im running 2, 2cell lipoly packs

Yeah i should've read your thread,sorry.In that case if you decide to get the Mtronics i'd make doubly sure it can handle the 4s(i thought you were running 2p2s though)because it should handle more than 8 cells then.i'm confused. Oh and that was a blatant lie about the t1,i just weighed it.it's gonna be like 1350 grams.might stop it flying so easy though 'ey.

LOL, I would of ran bl in my T1, but I dont think belts and brushless mix

1/8 onroad run belts no problem and they run much higher belt rpms.you should have tried it.it's got eccentric bushings in the bulkheads to tension the belts(which are high quality)plus i got a seperate tensioner/roller for the main belt.I thought the same thing but reckon it'll be fine(maybe).An interesting test anyhoo.

There's another thread in this section called 'my slow project' and that's belt driven.I don't think it's been tested yet but it's running 6s lipo in a 1/9 i think.I was hoping for an update on that one.

The Mtroniks controllers can handle 4s Lipo (have the cutoff for programming) and 12 NiMh cells. IMO, they are better than MGM controllers. The case is a heatsink, they are completely waterproof (sealed), have soldering posts (easy replacement of wire), and Mtroniks is an English company with good support (unlike MGM). Only downside compared to MGM controllers is the lack of braking strength adjustability and dead-band size.

Ok, Kool Metalman. What is the difference between the Mtroniks pro, and truck? WHich one should I get?

The pro can handle 12 cells too not just the truck?i figured either the 4s or 8 cells had to be a misprint.Being water proof is a major bonus I reckon,plus it's British made;) .Just when i saw only 8 cells was the concern.Maybe Mike would consider selling these then.

The Truck has a HUGE aluminum base that makes the Truck weigh twice as much as the Pro. The Pro should be fine for ALL 1/10 applications (12 cells/4s Lipo or under). They are also VERY smooth!

The Pro and Truck can both handle 12 cells/4s Lipo. It is my guess that they are both the same, but that the Truck can handle more amps because it has the large aluminum base for more heatsinking capability. The price and the fact that it is completely waterproof are the two things that sold me on it ;) (the Truck version).

Ok, thanks, I will be receiving it for christmas, so now I will have to wait till christmas to accualy use it. Thanks for the help tho guys. I will be getting the pro one.

Thanks,
Joe

Makes sence about them being the same,you can see the bigger heatsink the truck sits on.Got me thinking about a little some thing for when the snow comes.:cool:

Just make sure to put a balloon around that receiver! I have actually been running around puddles of water and wet grass a lot more recently, and the best thing is that I am able to! The screws might rust, but I buy those in bulk, so replacements are easy to come by :p.

Lol, yeah, dont forget about that receiver

I'm sapose to be getting all of the final parts machined tonight. (Chassis, servomounts, custom servotop plate(to mount receiver on top of cleanly)) and hopefully my lipolys will be in this week.

Cool.

MetalMan,you're using an Mtronics?

It has become the major worry at the moment when running,worrying about shorting stuff.It's very sludgy and horrible here.That used to be why i kept a Nitro running,for crappy weather,sealed radio box so only keeping the air filter dry to worry about.Nitro way too irritating though so looking for another solution.

Yes, I am running one. Got it a month ago, when the Warrior 9920s were out of stock and I needed a good controller for my 1/8 buggy right away. Now I just need some new Lipos for my buggy (one of the series blocks puffed up, so now it's a 3s Lipo).

Hey, I got my Mtroniks pro controller and my Lipoly's for christmas. I was wondering what charger I should get, I dont want to spend too much on it either.

Please let me know,
-Joe

I have not gotten my final chassis machined yet because of a file issue, but it will hopefully be done this week. I will also have pictures

This is a pretty good charger:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...charger&cat=19