Looking forward to the build DickyT, as usual.

I'm kinda leaning in that same direction as well.


Have fun !!!!

Will a hb or ofna diff fit in the mugen bulks?

I think but am unsure that the HB diff does. In the interim, what is a good way to lock the diff? pack with saran wrap?

The HB and mugen both use a 8x16 bearing for the CD, I am uncertain on the length or what shimming might be needed.

Jb weld...:intello:

I think silly putty will work, as it appears t be the same consistency as the diff lock putty I have seen...

If out drive cups never wore out, or were changeable with out taking the diff apart I would have jbwelded it last night.

I have thought about silly putty, but it gets very malleable when warm and I live in south FL. I do not know if it would hold.

I lack the disposable income to make the diffs "throw away" by jb'ing them.

I am going to try wadding it full of saran wrap tonight and binding the gears that way.

just get some 500k diff lock, is should only set you back $5

That is what is in there.. it is not holding.

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I'm not sure why you're having a problem with it. Your center diff may have some issues if it unloads with 500k in it.

The diff is in good shape, the gears are solid, not worn, it spins very smoothly, no gaps or grinding. I have a feeling it is a combination of my heavy finger and the massive torque of the 1515. I wish I had a 1512 or medusa 60mm can to try.

The engineers at my job have some rubber putty stuff that we will fill it with tomorrow should the saran wrap idea to bind it not work.

Before putting something non-removable in the diff, I'd head to the thread on rctech about 1/8th conversions and ask there. I know some of those guys have run 1515's in buggies and I don't think they're unloading that badly.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...sion-kits.html

I would never put anything non removable in. This putty goo stuff the engineers have is rubber. it could be cut back out :) I'll check that out though thx.

It looks like Kyosho Center Differential Assembly MP-777 p/n IF344 will fit, that will give me the quieter plastic spur!

I will check my LHS for it after work. I'll take the muggin with me to verify sizes.. I have to rip the MM out anyway since my v3 showed up today.

Huh? 500k not enough? I have 100k and the front end wants to come up. Any thicker and wheelies will become a problem I would think.

Might be better off getting a spool...

Looks good. Glad it finally came. Now all we need is a little video footage

I stopped by Toy's r Us, got silly putty, and the lhs that carries kyosho and mugen. I picked up stiffer springs front and rear, a kyosho mp 777 center diff which is a direct fit, and a jconcepts illusion body. Mike was out of plastic spurs :bad: so I ordered the plastic kyosho spurs from amain. By next weekend it will be silent! and not as HoovHartid described sound like it's dragging chains down the road. Time to get wrenching!

I run 10k in the center on mine and it works great. :neutral:

I hate the sound of steel on steel gears... I run plastic spurs on everything, and do not have any issues...

My SH Z-Car is somehow as quiet or quieter using its stock steel spur with a Robinson pinion than a Kyosho spur on the same pinion.

I agree with others, if your front end is unloading with 500k something is wrong. Perhaps the company that makes the oil measures it differently? I have seen some brands will multiply their # by 10, so 1000wt. they say is 10000wt. If that's the case you would have 50k, which should still be pretty stiff for a buggy. I dunno.

My truggy is running 30k in the center, and likes to wheelie.

the 500k is ofna and very thick. idk. I have silly putty in there now :) It feels as it will hold just fine :)

Last night I got the MMM put in, swaped the springs and shock oil, silly puttied the CD, found out the kyosho diff needs .5 mm more clearance in the mounts (I'll work on this later). It drives MUCH better!

I still need to change the front and rear diff fluids, according to the setup sheet that came with the buggy it has 5k front and 2k rear. I want to put 7k front and 5k rear.

I also need to move the battery tray just a bit further forward, and find some rx box to squeeze in behind it, clean up the wires and paint the new body! I'll take more pictures when I get the rx box figured out :)

edit: I brought it to work today, I just came in from a run outside. it wheelies on surfaces with traction. none in the dirt or grass, but on coarse asphalt it pulls the front end right up if I peg it hard. anything less than just pegging it and it digs in and accelerates like a rocket.

hey dickyt do u know about how much it weights. i was just trying to figure out how much mine might weight when im done.

8.1 lbs rtr on the digital scale at my jobs engineering dept :) heavier than I wanted, but oh well.. I was hoping for 7.5'ish. where can I scrub .6 lbs?

wow thats not bad. when mine was nitro with no gas it weight 8 pounds.

if you really want to lose those .6 pounds just go out and buy the titanium screw set for it. the upper and lower. it it well lose about 1/2 a pound. but they are not cheap. its like 20$ for the lower since there are only 12 screws. and its 50$ for the upper since there are like (i think 32) screws. but it makes a big difference.

my buddy has them on his 5r and i dont on my 5r and its a day and night difference.

You can't... It sucks when you know that your buggy can't be any lighter. I supposed you could drop down to a smaller motor/battery, but there's no fun in that.

Ti Screws and Aluminum pivot balls seem to be my only options. Smaller motor? NAH :lol: and my battery is not big. 4s 5000 mah neu power. I would not want to run any smaller in here.

A 1512 instead of the 1515 will save you just over 2oz.

very pricey solution...:yes: i'm just a basher, it is honestly ok as it is, mugen are known as tanks too. 7.5 was a goal, 8.1 is acceptable. I can't get over how nimble this thing in compared to my revo.

u can get 7.5 with those ti screws. mine weights 8 pounds and my friend with ti screws weights 7.5 pounds.

I picked up a traxxas e-revo\slash rx box today and finished off the conversion. All the wires tucked away nice. I dremeled a channel in the bottom of the battery tray to run the servo to the rx box and ran the esc around the base of the rear brace.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...1-fin-left.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...-fin-right.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17.../1-fin-top.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...-fin-front.jpg

painted up a quick body to beat up: Jconcepts Illuzion for mbx5r

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...body-front.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...body-right.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...-body-left.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...-body-rear.jpg

Lookin good man! Are those bald spots in the tires from you or the previous owner?

Thanks, No those are from running 3 packs on asphault :lol:

Hmm... slight tire balloon issue? rofl

Last night I added carbon fiber mud guards and I just ordered the upper and lower titanium screw sets. hopefully no more stripped out screw heads and less weight is a plus!

When I first got my MBX-5 running I pulled it out and ran it on the street by my house.

After going back and forth like 3 times and the entire foam insert came out of this little hole and flew 20 feet in the air. :mdr:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edTires006.jpg

That was with a 1.5/D. I have now stepped back a notch to the 2/D.

lets see those new wheels of yours :)

im trying to find some to fit my Ofna 8 and cant decide. i would also like them mounted and have a few different options.
anyone know a site?