Nice one Patrick. If you take a hammer to it, eventually everything will break.

I would actually cable-tie the wires down to the body so that no flex happens to the connection.

The male plugs should have a very snug fit when going into the female and any slop would cause such a failure. So everyone make sure your male plugs are somewhat hard to push into the female to prevent this from happening. If the male plug comes off easily, carefully spread the contacts apart a little to give you that very tight fitting.

Yeah, well that's true. -- :whistle:

We've built about 4500 MMM V3s to date (on the machines) and finished and shipped about 1500 of 'em.

If we see failure rates above about 1%, I'll be very surprised (and I don't expect actual failure rates -- not user-induced failures -- to go above about 1/4%). We have not seen a single "It just died" BEC failure like we did on the V1 and V2, and we have yet to see a complete FET failure like we did on the V1 and V2 -- so I'm pretty confident that the V3 is going to prove to be fairly bulletproof.

ive had bullets come apart on me on the motor side for no apparant reason. now i use long heat shrink so it covers the motor side also and put a wire tie around it.

I very thankful Castle Creations has ventured out into the 1/8 scale ESCs. It just takes a while for people to find out the all the design issues. I’m sure Castle will come up with a solid design. I personally think the V1 design was better with the wires connected directly to the ESC. I also think any fan on an ESC is a bad design. The voltage should be increased until no fan is required.:yipi:

I've run both my MMM v3's now racing on the track for about 2hrs each and they have been solid.. I mean these babies are NICE! I have so much more torque with these vs my MM/bec as well.. it's just crazy, it's odd but even top speed seems a bit faster (no gps sorry). I would have loved the wires coming off the ESC myself.. you do save one joint be it solder or bullet with Castles approach on long runs, but in most cases you can keep the ESC close enough to just plug the included wires into the motor w/o an extension.

patrick. can we solder the wires directly onto the female bullets (without voiding warranty) cause the bullets for me dont cut it in this situation. they have only been unplugged 5 or less times and already they are getting loose. +1 to permanant wires like the MM!!!

thats great to hear. thanks for taking time to let us know how things are going. My v3 seems to be holding up fine but i have noticed that my truggy seems slower since putting it in. i am sure it very well could be something else and i dont want to raise any issues but is there any type of change in the v3 that could cause my truggy to be slower than it was with the v2. also, the responsiveness is sometimes twitchy. unlike my v2s which were lightning fast and responsive. thoughts?

all males like a tight-fitting female.:lol: well said lutach.

Mine was shipped back to me on the 29th of october. Once I get it I will be testing the heck out of it. I had a bec failure and I will know in about 10 minutes if its good to go. I'm pretty excited to get it back.

I appreciate the response to my concern. I feel much better now(and worse, for jumping to conclusions and making that false accusation about Castle QA). :)
Honestly, I don't even know what would happen if a pair of the motor leads were to short anyways.
I had just been reading a paper on Nikola Tesla's monopolar motors and how he was incorporating aluminum in some kind of dynamo he was working on which reminded me that even though aluminum isn't magnetic, it is still conductive. But if, as you said, shorting the motor leads isn't an issue, then no worries after all.

If I scraped some of the shrink wrap from the side making contact with the heatsink, this should relieve the pressure that I am concerned about also.

Thanks again. :)