Well, I just got 2 sets of the mip1665 cvds ( these are huge{the same size as the ones that were on my lst2} and harden steel) They were $65 for 2 so it was $130 total. I just went out to try them and wow they worked like a champ! I bet I will kill the diffs before these cvds!
P.S. They also fit the extended arms with out issues.

thats good to hear, hopefully they will hold up for you. If they do i might have to consider a set for myself.

I have put another battery pack on the cvds. I was afraid that I was going to break somthing b/c I was really hard on her. I just want to make sure they are going to hold up! I was harder on the trucks drivetrain this last battery than I have ever been. I pulled off a tripple back flip off a ramp too! It was sweet. I took off the wheely bar to do a few standing backflipps. The mips are doing well so far.

The vantage racing cvds have a 4mm shaft and the mips have a 6mm shaft! The cups are 2mm thicker(much more metal) on the mips.

Well I wanted to do more testing on the mip cvds and all I can say is wow they are strong. I now have to get another rear diff and bulkhead. Does anyone make a aluminum rear bulkhead? This is my second broken one :) ! Also these cvds are the shizznits. I knew something was going to give today and I am glad to say it wasnt the cvds. I think I might have to put the settings on the mmm back on low !

Edit: This thing flys on 6s too. I think landing will full throttle with the 6s is what killed the diff and bulkhead. Just a thought!

If you have the money these cvds rock and seem to hold up to crazy amounts of punishment

yeah i have broken 1 rear diff and 3 rear bulkheads, not too mention the numerous driveshafts and a chassis. lol, the E-revo is tough but i guess i drive tougher!!!

But those MIP cvd's seem like a good option for me, by the way what is your setup in your E-revo (motor, batts, esc)? if they are working for you on 6s than im sure that they will hold up to my setup on 4s and 5s.

Am running the mmm 2200 combo with 20/58 gearing(running 6.3inch tires aka losi super bolt-ons) normally I run 6000mah enerland 25c 2s lipos but for the 6s I have a set of 5000mah 20c maxamps. I prefur To run 4s b/c it has way to muck power geared that high on 6s(just sold the maxamps batteries). I have since gotten a new rear diff and killed it and the front diff too. Oh and another rear bulkhead and the center skid. Still had all the settings on the mmm on high. That was my last test for the cvds. So I am waiting for my new diffs to show up so I can run again!!!. So I can say the mips 1665 cvds will take some punishment.

thats awsome, im glad to hear that your having success with virtually the same setup, i run on 4s for now, and eventually will try a 5s parallel setup (i was looking at the new lipos here on RCM). But before i do that i think i want to get all the weak links out of my drive train because i know that since im having issues now 5s will only make it worse. so on my list of things to do are cvd's, and from your input i will most likely be going with the MIP units. I also want to get the RCM/fastlane Diffs, though $250 is a lot of money i think a virtually bombproof drive train will be a nice thing. i cant wait until ill be able to get through a couple sets of packs without breakage issues!!!

Thanks alot for the Updates on the MIP cvd's E-fanatic, they have been very helpful. And as soon as i get money they will be on there way to my house!!!

No worries man. Glad I could be the ginnie pig for ya :lol: . I am thinking about getting mikes 1/8th diffs too. Next will be center dogbones or cvds. Then I will try to find a bulkhead that will not break when I look at it :no: . I want a bombproof truck that I can bash and race with! Is that to much to ask?

I forgot to mention I had to dremmal .4mm off the back of the mips cups so they would not bind on the driveshafts and diff bearing. Other than that they are solid. This thing rocks on 5s by the way(I like it better than 6s to be honest). I use 5s in my planes. They are only 3200 30c flight powers but they do ok!

Any updates on those cvd's?? Im finally considering dropping the $ on them and just want to make sure they are still working well for you.

They are still holding up great. I had one of the diff cup start to ware really fast but mip said it didnt get hardened somehow and replaced it!

Has anyone tried the Traxxas cvds? I like how they have dust boots on both ends. Less dirt means less wear.

Well I just broke my third stock slider last night. What's weird about this, all 3 broken ones have been on the front. :oops: I always thought the rear received the most stress. Hmmmmm............

My setup is:

E Revo:

Monster Mamba ESC
18/52 Mod 1 gearing
Medusa 36-60-2000

All this on just 4S, 5000mah 20C and 7000mah 30C.

I've been thinking about 6S, but I can't do that until I get this problem solved.

Some people have said the Medusa 60mm is too small for a Monster Truck, but I'm not getting that. LOL

Temps are well in hand, and it's snapping sliders.:whistle:

I like how the THS set looks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKSJ9&P=ML

When I upgrade to cvds, I will install my RCM diffs with buggy gears. Then it's just a matter of changing the spur to compensate.

How about these??
 

I like how the THS set looks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKSJ9&P=ML

When I upgrade to cvds, I will install my RCM diffs with buggy gears. Then it's just a matter of changing the spur to compensate.[/QUOTE]

How about these axles?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPNJ8
I have a set on one of my SeuperMaxx trucks with the Revo carriers and they seem to work pretty well. I have not really punished the truck to find out about durability yet, but I would think that they are fairly strong. Just a through.

Hey guys I'm running Neu 1515 1.5y (1500 kv) 6s FP and MMMV3. Kershaw design center steel drive shafts and traxxas cvds. I too was going thru the stock diffs on a regular bases. If you want a cheaper diff, install the LST2 diffs in your e-revo. There are a couple of threads on this board about it. I have 50.00 total including shipping off of ebay. I did have to buy some 8 mm drive cups from mike (11.00 for two) You will have to rework your bulkheads and cut a small clearance hole in your frame (rear) to get them to fit. I have not tested this yet because of the 10 inches of snow outside. E-Fanatic how are you breaking bulkheads? Driving into cement walls? JK I beat mine pretty hard but no failures like that.

^^^ That does sound like a cheaper alternative to the RCM hybrid diffs, but i have already broken 3 or 4 rear bulkheads and the thought of them being weaker due to material removal isnt something i really want to deal with, especially since if you break on your gonna have to re-mod the replacements you get.

Good idea for some im sure, but as tough as i am on my truck i want my bulks to be as strong as possible, so i guess ill have to start saving up for the RCM hybrids unless something else comes out.

shizzon do you have any pics you can post of your broken bulkheads? Are you running a e-revo or a converted nitro revo? Not sure if the e-revo bulks are any stronger or any different. I really want to see what part you are breaking.
Side note is there any difference between the MIP "shiny" axles and the regular black ones that have been tested in this post? The "shiny" version is cheaper on ebay.

it is an E-REVO as you can see from the pics...
[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FilvsaVMjDsm18GCfGMmXg?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvsIHxPDI/AAAAAAAAANI/lifA8R71zIc/s144/DSC_0154.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xQiju1fTBh7VOrbS21Thkw?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvtRHA37I/AAAAAAAAANY/5PNs7gHhIXI/s144/DSC_0150.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ItffrYSCN7nRzqrLaWYMPA?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvt2R6nKI/AAAAAAAAANg/9CE5rKu_uQc/s144/DSC_0149.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

The jump that did it, there it probably at least 15 feet of drop that the picture doesn't show (so about a 20-25 foot drop) and i landed right on the rear end. definately not the trucks fault.

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KyHVnVMNSzz9JPKdntajYg?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPVORO-Pj2I/AAAAAAAAAM4/MpBnnH6wEO8/s144/DSC_0147.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

From the way they're breaking, I would suspect the rest of the chassis is flexing severely, or the shocks are bottoming out too soon. If it's a chassis problem, you might be able to find a way to reinforce the stress points somehow.

No matter what, that's a lot of stress you are expecting the truck to absorb!

from what i can tell none of the breaks happened from landing flat on all fours but usually involved an ass down approach to the ground from a good height. I did manage to break the rear of the chassis as well as the bulks on one occasion, i would like to make a center skid that incorporates the front and rear skids to act as a "spine" and increase strength and rigidity. As a student at oit i have access to CNC as well as a company that will water-jet anything i want if i provide the materials, so eventually i would like to make something like this.

yes the "shinny" kit's are for 2.5 sized REVO/slayer, the kit's that include one black/chrome are for 3.3 sized REVO's. i made the mistake when i ordered my centre CVD kit but MIP was nice enough to exchange them for me and sent me one of their clutch kit's to boot! :intello:

madmaxx
thanks for the info,looks like I will be adding to my revo collection of parts soon.
Is there anyway to run steel cvd's with the LT rockers on and the adjustable wheelbase arms? That is my current setup on my sons truck.

traxxas make's extended drive cup's :mdr:

Extend cups are meant for the adjustable wheelbase arms but not with the LT rockers and arms used together.

i think the reason im not haveing the sliders fail is the tekno clutch slips alot, im glad the mip cvd's are working out for you

Just for clarification on this. What was stated above is due to the extended length of the 3.3, so the center CVD's are a different length. However, the driveshafts (diffs to wheels) are the same between the 2.5 and 3.3.
I had two different styles of shafts, one was black and one was shiny, and that wasonly because it was an option when I ordered them. Not because of 2.5 or 3.3. But, I did not order the complete kit, I only purrchased driveshafts. I can't say if thats the case now.

The ones he used above post, in the 3.3 Revo is kit 1665. the shineys are 1600 and are the same. the Revo 2.5 uses I think the number is 1525.. 1665 and 1600 are the same except shiny.

On another note I have just bent my MIP 1600 cvd shafts on a big jump. Any ideas on how to straighten them? I have them in a vise and am heating them currently, will see if it works...I guess this means the shafts are not hardened, just the cups.

The THS and Integy read universals are total crap. broke in 5 minutes.

^^ sorry you are wrong, shiny kit is 2.5 only, according to an MIP representative and the package i bought and had to exchange for the correct one lol

the 3.3 center CVD kit has one shiny and one black shaft.

just to clarify i am talking about the center shaft's only.

:smile:

[QUOTE=madmaxx;276353
just to clarify i am talking about the center shaft's only.

:smile:[/QUOTE]

That's where the confusion came about. Doo540 asked about "axles", not centers.