Nice.

I've spent countless thousands on maxxes, and all though yours wasn't a "bling" build, I love your truck. I'm a function over form guy, so to me that is prettier than any shelf queen.

Looks good!

Wow, thanks!!! I have a thread over on RCU called "The Beater Builds Thread" which is really what got me started on upgrading this truck. My main goal was durability and power, the only thing I wanted to really look good was the wheels and my body. Sticking to the goal of durability got the truck to where it is today. And I love it, but I am dying to run it! It hasn't been run in over 2 months because I was waiting on that motor and now I am back in school so it might be even longer before I can actually drive it again. But thanks again, I really do appreciate your comment, thank you.

Thanks!!

Well now the next step in this build would be to solder on my 6.5mm bullets on the motor and ESC, and use my braided metal wire shield on the motor wires and the steering servo wire, and replace the chassis with the new plastic one I got (Same as the one on there, but the current one is cracked at the mounting points up front), then install the front FLM hybrid bulk.

Notice how the BEC is not visible? I want to see who can figure out where I put the BEC. Ryan, Travis, Ben, and Ian, you are not allowed to say because I think I already told you guys a while back.

Next upgrade I plan to put on the Maxx are some aluminum or titanium skid plates. Preferably titanium if I can find some at a decent price. Anyone have some titanium skids they would be willing to give up for a decent price?

I hate to say this, but go integy. Integy aluminum is crap, but people have good luck with their titanium skids. I prefer plastic to absorb impact.

Is it under the ESC?

I will have to have a look at those! Thanks for the suggestion!

Damn, I didn't think anyone would find it! :lol: It fits right under the ESC quite well though.

NewEra and GARC have the best Ti skids going, especially since HCR stopped selling them:

NewEra

GARC

Have you ever concidered a different design of 3906 chassis, like the FLM one, or the this one? With a motor that powerful onboard, I dont think the stockers will live too long each time... :whistle:

??????????????
 

I was about to bust your chops on this one.

I have a E-Maxx build in progress worth over $3,000.00 including a Castle MMM, NEU 1515, and nearly a 100% UE Supermaxx parts list including VBS PRO bulkless.....

:lol:

GOod luck with your build buddy...

Pro.

Sold Mine. Sorry.

Check with great Assembly RC www.greatassemblyrc.com they make 2mm versions which is what you probably want. The 3mm versions I had were indistructable but heavy.

I guarantee you'll be happy with their products. I've owned their diffs, bulks, and skids. Their quality rivals Unlimited Engineering/Supermaxx! I say that with confidence haveing owned both.

Pro.

^^^^^^^^link to bulkless?? ...(whatever that is) i like that idea!!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ml?id=qVLmSEPd

Check out the link. "Victory Bulkless" IS THE upgrade for the maxx. Let me know what you think.

Bulkless systems are out of stock, and way overpriced anyway. They were the best of the best. Fastlane Machines makes "combo bulks" which use the same idea. (combined diffs and bulkheads) The flm units are sold right here at RCM and I have never heard a complaint. Worth the money IMO.

Thanks, I will look into those skids as well.

And as for the East End Machining chassis, I have seen it before, its really nice, but I have seen pics of it, and its really thick, looks heavy.


Thanks man!

I actually have 1 complaint about them... I had to dremel the cases a bit to get my GH Racing shock towers to fit. Not a big deal, just annoying.

New update, got my 6.5mm bullet connectors soldered to my motor and ESC. Next step is shrink wrapping all of the connectors.

Same thing with rc solutions shock towers. But I dremeled the towers instead. I don't call it a complaint, just compatibility issues with different aftermarket suppliers.

The hardcore racing chassis was very similar to the east end maching unit, but had considerably more material and wasn't that bad on weight. I think with all the power you have you won't notice the extra weight. You will break the chassis at the bulkhead mounts. An extra little aluminum brace there could help.

Yeah I really like the Hardcore racing chassis, but I haven't looked much on ebay for one.

And I will have to see what I can figure out for a brace.

and it goes a lil' somethin like this!

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l..._/DSCF0020.jpg

Looks great chris. I see your wait on the medusa payed off!

Only problem with something like that is because the stock chassis is tub style all around, I would have to cut out a big piece up at the front and rear of the chassis to make a brace like that work. But a good idea none the less.

Thanks Ryan! Yeah, I can't wait to run it, hopefully I will be able to run it by Saturday.

Bye bye MM...:lol: You need a stepped up ESC now.

Hey, don't be pickin' on my MM. If it lasts 10 runs I will be happy and it will prove that it is one hell of an ESC. :lol:

Alright so I got everything installed and did a first run tonight.

There was 1 bug, otherwise it was amazing. After long bursts of full throttle, and sometimes after wheelies and such, and after long bursts of full throttle, when I would let off and it would coast, or even on take off, the ESC would turn off, and then turn back on again and go through its whole arming tone stuff. And I didn't even run use my extra capacitor board and the ESC was only warm to the touch and the motor was slightly warmer and the LiPo's seemed to be just above room temp. (They are 30C constant and 60C burst, two 2S 4000mAh, in series for 4S.)

It could be a loose connection, the on/off switch, or I am pulling too many amps through the ESC. I also have my cutoff set at 13.8volts (I know, I am paranoid), and my theory was that maybe the battery was dipping below cutoff voltage cause the ESC to shut off and then when the voltage recovered the ESC came back on. Not exactly sure what it is though. Does the MM have an overamp cutoff? Maybe my BEC is drawing too much, should I lower the voltage to like 5.5 volts on the BEC?

What do you guys think? I am going to eliminate my on/off switch, I checked the receiver plug to see if it was messed up or loose, and it was fine.


But other than that annoying problem, THIS THING IS A TOTAL BEAST!!! It has some crazy power, will wheelie (if it can get traction) at 3/4 throttle. Haven't tried it on pavement yet but I dont have much doubt that this thing could do a standing backflip on pavement. Its tons of fun and more speed and power than I expected!

I think it might be time for an MMM. Seems my MM has given up the ghost. When I plug the battery in and it turns on, it turns right back off, then on and does the tone, and it does that over and over and over and over. And I probably need an MMM anyway due to the size of the motor and the amps it pulls.

I have a used XXX-T with a bunch of upgrades that I can trade for a new MMM if anyone is interested BTW.

Hmm, I would have said it was your LVC being set too high- 3.3v per cell is plenty high enough (13.2v total), but if the MM is now refusing to work once its armed, sounds like something important went pop inside. MMM it is then... :yes:

My friend put his new Medusa 36/70/2300 in my truck last night and it ran great. I am running a Mamba Max with a cap on 4s lipo. After 6-7 speed runs the motor was barley warm as was the esc. Oh and It is geared 23/64.

Glad your enjoying your Emaxx, BUT had to comment on your inflammatory title "my emaxx kicks your emaxx's butt" I'm with SuicideNeil on this one!

Have you seen some of the members Emaxxes here? There are some seriously clued up individuals on this site, with seriously bling cars, and have been for years and years.

Seriously, unless your running full UE and Gmaxx parts with some mind blowing home made additions like centre diff etc, etc, you just can't say that, and even if you could, you just shouldn't!

For the record here's my 2 year old Emaxx conversion which I'd rate as very ordinary, and truth be told hardly gets used as my brushless Truggies and Buggies are more fun to drive.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m...3/P1000084.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m...3/P1000074.jpg

Wow nice truck! What motor are you using?

I had a Feagio and modded MM in it when it was built (well before the Monster Max was out!), but replaced them ages ago with a Neu 1515 1Y, and an MGM 16018, but they're both in my 8T now.

The Emaxx has been relegated to the cupboard!

As I said, pretty ordinary build, Jordan's and George's and countless others are more bling, and would truely kick it's ass!!!!

Very nice^^.

Thread hijack? :no:

Quattro 83, the title was meant to be a joke. I have seen many of the Maxx's on this site, and I am well aware of the fact that they are amazing trucks and I highly doubt my Maxx could kick the ass of most of the Maxx's on this site.



Anyway, new update, going to mess with some more settings for this 2nd run and see if it helps any.

Dude, the guy was just kidding!!! He just did it for fun :lol::lol:.

Anyway, both of you have nice emaxxes but mine still looks better :na::na::na::rofl::rofl::rofl:.

Uploading a video now of the 2nd run. It still shuts itself off and on. :no: I will post the link once its done uploading.

Alright, here is a video of what this thing does.

http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=DSCN2045.flv

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i291.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid291.photobucket.com/albums/ll290/ChrisKrawlin/DSCN2045.flv">

sounds a lot like bad connectors between the esc and battery.

The problems make me think they are dean's connectors. Correct?

Although they may look good connectors go bad from the slight arc of connecting and disconnecting.

I had the same problem, new connectors solved it.

please try and report results(I'd like to know if I diagnosed it correctly, I learn from my mistakes!)

just watched the vid, its connectors between battery and esc

Did you eliminate your on/off switch? It sure appears to be loosing connection at the switch.

If you left some wire attached where the switch used to be, I would see if those wires are good all the way to the board. Maybe there is a loose connection at the board for the switch wires.

Hmmmmmmmm..........:oops:

pull the trigger, current flows, heat builds, the connection is lost. sit a second, cool, connection regained. lather, rinse, repeat