I'll thread in the General discussion.

Also a good idea! :lol:

There are several problems with that.

#1. Even a 25 tooth gear isn't big around enough. A 30+ tooth would be required for the threaded holes to be into the meat of the gear inwards beyond the teeth.

#2. This is some HARD stuff. The good thing about it is, it is hardened by tempering. This means in its current state, it isn't drillable. The way to overcome this is, heat it up cherry red with a torch.(acetylene torch) Then let it cool slowly in open air. This removes the temper and makes it drillable and tappable. Drill and tap. Then reharden by replacing the temper. To do this, heat it up cherry red again, then drop it into cool motor oil. Quench it, as they call it. This restores the temper and hardness. IF you attempt this, wear eye protection and be wary since there is a violent reaction when you quench it. Spatter, splatter, sizzle.

#3. How would you be sure that your holes were perfectly centered? It has to run true you know?

How about modifying the outrunner's shaft to accept a gear hub (such as a slipper clutch)?
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14583

I was thinking mike could make us an adapter, not modding an existing gear. BTW the thread is up.

OMG! Dude! PM me with stuff like this! LOL

Did you make it a reality? Got pics of the prototype? If not, I have some ideas! :yes:

Never did make anything out of it because I never came up with a practical application. Even though I really enjoy working with outrunners (you know how much I've done with them), I prefer using inrunners due to their greater performance in a smaller package.

However, my XLB is still looking for a suitable motor and it has a center diff... Thinking something like a 4025-4035 might be suitable. The diameter is my only concern, because the motor mount was designed for a 45mm maximum diameter motor with 30mm bolt spacing and M4 screws.

EDIT:
Patrick, a suggestion for you: send one of your 40mm diameter outrunners my way for testing purposes in a car. Something with a stator length of 25mm-35mm and a kv of just under 500 and a shaft diameter of 5-6mm. Then we can see what those motors are really capable of :wink:.

I never claimed they would fit Castle outrunners, I was just responding to Metallovers postulation.

Ok, take a look at this. :yes:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC07344.jpg

What do you see?

Remake the motor shaft from a transmission input shaft. Then the slipper will bolt right on like normal. Both shafts are 5mm.

I can see alot more gearing choices this way. OR wouldn't it be different if the slipper was on the motor?

Hmmmm..........the possibilities.

Can you link us to a suitable shaft?, or have you not done this yet..

Nice..............

How are the tolerances on the input shaft (diameter)? I was thinking more along the lines of buying a die and modifying the original motor shaft, but your idea obviously requires a lot less work :oops:

The Tolerances are good! :yes:

The bearings of the motor AND the bearing used in the transmissions have the same ID. Very nice fit. I just tried the input shaft into a 2826 that I have here.

The 2826/8 won't work with this type of gearing, but a lower kv motor would. I'll have to plug some ratios/kv's in and see what pops out.

Hmmm maybe CC will take interest in this idea...

For my XLB I came up with:
-6s Lipo
-standard 43/13 front and rear diff ratio
-44t Kyosho spur gear for center diff
-36t Revo spur gear

A kv somewhere in the upper 400s to 500 would be suitable for this application. If CC's outrunners are like other typical outrunners then the kv choices will be similar. The motor I am interested in (about 4025-4035 size) will be offered with a kv in the range of 400-700.

I see a 450kv in the 34mm CC motor line! :yes: This line of CC motors is different. I'm sure intentionally.

The kv is determined by the wind. A huge outrunner can be rewound to a relatively high kv, but your system couldn't handle the startup amperage. On the other hand, a small outrunner can be wound to a low kv, but have torque out the wazoo.

Patrick was saying they ran a 30mm motor up to 1000 watts burst. Probably in an airplane no doubt. LOL

I wonder what the power handling ability of the 34mm line is going to be?

What is the stator size on the 34mm line of motors? 28mm x 34mm ?

Need more input! :yes:

Patrick is indeed going to have to give us more specs... WE NEED THEM. And some test motors would be nice :whistle:
Granted if we did test motors for Patrick, it would be more of durability testing than anything else.

I'd test a cc outrunner...

"WE", like you and me? Ummm.........you mean like Beta testers or something?

Hey! That would be GREAT. As a matter of fact, I think I read something about that somewhere. :lol:

Where is Patrick when you need him? :lol:
But to be fair, Metallover would need one too :angel:

Yeppers, after all, Metallover was the one that sent the spark that got this fire going again. :lol:

That's too true. I'm the most deserving person on this forum.:lol:

But really...:yes: I am.:mdr:

And the most modest too. Wow you are definately a catch!

(the preceeding was complete sarcasm, no aminals were harmed in the making of this sarcasm)

Closed-captioning provided by:

http://thestrategicretreat.com/wp-co.../11/bchow1.jpg

I'm working on the Modest-ness. Off the forums I have started to show people my projects. I actually drove my crt in front of my dad the other day! I even revved my bad ass 318 for the first time!

:lol:

So if I remove the center diff of my truggy and replace it with the 770Kv Castle outrunner, it should be OK, correct? Max RPM with a fully charged 6S is about 19,400. Run times should be much longer than what I get with my Medusa 36-70-2000?

Thanks for your input.

Can't comment on the max. RPM of the Castle outrunners, but as a guess I would say that RPM is too much.
Also, assuming a truggy diff ratio, your theoretical top speed is past 60mph which is IMO too much stress to put on a reasonably sized outrunner.
A kv of up to 550 will net a top speed of about 45mph, which is the highest I think you should shoot for (again, my opinion). Outrunners don't make the same power inrunners do.

You are correct, with a CC 770Kv outrunner, the theoretical top speed will be about 66mph without any losses factored in. At 30% loss, top speed will be about 45mph. Of course I can set throttle EPA lower if it gets to be too uncontrollable. To me that point where I lose control comes in at around 60mph for a 1/8 scale. I am worried more about overheating and demagging the motor. I really don't want that to happen.

Now, when you say that outrunners don't make the same power as inrunners, does it mean that the motor will tend to overheat piddling around in my truggy? Or will the outrunner generate enough torque for a lower amp value (lower power) to move the truck satisfactorily?

Thanks MetalMan.

770 is definately way to high of a kv, i ran a Buggy with a 550kv motor and it was always smoking hot after a run.. but yeah they are torque monsters.

You mean like this?

Yes, EXACTLY like that. That looks great DLS II. What Kv is that then? Where can I get one? And what true speeds are you getting out of it? And how long of a run time?

DLS, how did you mount that motor? I love your setup.

Close up shots of the motor mount would be great.

This is a hard comparison to make, considering the use of outrunners in cars is still relatively new and untested. However, for the same weight as an inrunner, outrunners generally are rated for less power. They do produce a lot of torque, as noted above, but I can't make a direct comparison to inrunners.

Just remember that your truck will require a certain level of power to move/accelerate, which won't necessarily be dependent on the motor.

The motor is 600kv. It weighs 7.75 lbs. I've yet to test it. It should do 40-45 mph and run (I hope) 15 min. The mount was made by Monster Mike. I tried getting some shots of the mount, but they didn't come out so well. It's set up 6s A123. The outrunner is a Rimfire 42-60-600. The car is a Kyosho MP-6. I call it an EMP-6. The motor mount is secured to the stationary end of the motor with 4 screws. It bolts down to the front 2 mount holes of the center diff. It is secured by the top brace that runs from the top of the mount to the steering assembly brace. It came out very well. Mike's work-mount,brace,rear dog bone and design are superb! Don

Thanks for the info DLSII and MetalMan. Looks like I will have to keep running inrunners for the time being.

If the CC outrunners are as good as Patrick says they are, it may be worth switching over to them. But since we don't have any info. on them or samples to try out, we can't be sure.

Exactly. I'm gonna bide my time. My truggy is doing well on 6S and a 36-70-2000 Medusa so I won't be hurting too bad...

#5 needs more input! :lol:

So what's the advantage of outrunners? It's been said a few times that for their size theyre not as powerful as inrunners... it cant be the kv because you could just wind up an in runner to get super low kv... so what is it then? are they somehow heaps more efficent or something?

Why do people love running them in cars so much? IT seems lik inrunners are much better suited.

It seems to me that if outrunners have a lot of torque you could use it to your advantage and get rid of the center diff. This would save weight and should result in a more efficient overall drive line.

Of course you would pick a much lower RPM motor and you wouldn't have much flexibility in changing your speed if you use it in place of the center diff.

CC, would you be able to make your motors such that the center shaft is sticking out of both ends?