no they would be fine...

so are they basicly the same motor as the CC neus?

seeing that the CC Neus are only $140 on here, and come with the warrenty, etc. what would be better for me, the 2200 or the 2650??

I'm leaning more to the 2200 because the H7 is a HEAVY buggy, and I can alwase gear up a bit.


would my tekin RS pro have any issues with that motor? external bec, bigger caps, etc...

also, i can get Neu 1512/2.5D/S<!-- google_ad_section_end --> for ~$140 would it be worth it to get that instaid??

All are good choices - the 2200 castle - would be good as would allow you to use in a MT in the future...

Not used that tekin so can't comment - Jhautz runs the R1Pro I believe - not sure how that one compares...

the RSPro is a R1Pro with a sensor port.

so I should gear it for about 45-50?

Start at 40 and work up...

so with the 2200 a 15t pinon looks to be about right

is there any diffrence between the RR and novak pinions, RCM, losi, etc?

any experiance with the speed passion motors???

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/34149
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/34150

http://cgi.ebay.com/USED-NOVAK-HV-7-...QQcmdZViewItem

will a 7.5 be a good choice??:whistle::oops:

No. Just get the CC 2200 and be done with it.

but $140 for a motor... the buggy isn't worth 1/2 that much...

note to self, servo tape is not an acceptable way of puting batts in a 1/8 buggy:lol::rules::oops::whip:

the 4.5 works realy good on a 2 cell with a 12t pinion, after 10min, it never got hot, a lil warm(~100) but not hot enough to bring out the temp gun

esc never got past 1led...

WARNING, these photos will make you cring...
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMGP4663.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMGP4664.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMGP4665.jpg

well, you guys sucseeded in makeing me buy the singal most expensive RC item I own, a NEU 1512 1.5d 3300KV, a little high but it has the finned can and was only $100

the next paycheck has a 48t spur and a 11t pinion....

do they make a plastic 48t spur for a 1/8 buggy? It sounds like a chainsaw with the metal gears:whip:

Funny, you beat me to that motor... Good deal, it will make some power on 4s.

Kyosho make 46t plastic spurs. I ran a motor of that kv (hacker c50 8l) in my hyper7 on 4s. Used 11/46 gearing and it was spot on for mid 40s...

For $40 I would have taken the one from RCM...

Sort out that rear brace...

???? the novak trays are on the way


46/11 won't fit with the motor mount :(



the rear brace and the chassis needs to be replaced... skateboard ramp+overgeared .28+open road+ME!!+"hey watch this*"= "thats AWSOME, holy mother of... oh *****************

still finding chunks of the cooling head and other random parts a year later:whistle::oops:



will the RCM LST 2 speed pinion work, or does anyone make 2 speed pinions?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...50025&viewitem

BTW I did not buy that for the 2 speed, more for the CNC knuckals and the masive amounts of suspention parts...


* Famous last words of $$$$$ worth of stuff, the same goes for, "what happens if..."

I got the bat boxes in and I'm going to mount them sometime this weekend, but I have a new problem, were do I mount the RX and esc with 2 batts???:neutral:

IDK but I'm thinking of keeping the RX were it its and put it in one of THESE or THESE and then mounting the esc on top of it. would I get any interference issues with a 75mhz FM system??


so whats everyone else doing?

this is the basic layout, but with another batt on the other side too

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...c/IMGP4663.jpg


my neu should be here sometime soon:yipi:

Unless you run 2.4ghz keep the rec away from the esc and motor, as they will mess with reception.

I generally place the esc near the motor and put the rec on top of the steering servo. Do you have the lay down or stand up servo on that hyper? I cannot remember what my 7 had... I think it was a stand up type. So lay it on its side and you will have some space to mount the rec on top of it. Can you move the fuel tank side tray forward and mount the esc behind it on the chassis? Layout will look a bit funny, but it will be closest to the motor. Or you could mount it in front of the tray across from the servo, but your motor wires will be long, which is never a good thing.

Ok, I looked at the pic... I would move the fuel tank side battery box forward, and mount the esc behind it. Get some servo mounts and lay the servo down and put the rec on top of it. That will keep the rec away from the motor and esc. Best layout I can come up with...

the big thing I'm worryed about with mounting it back that far is that area is allwase filled with dirt and crap...

what if I mounted the esc on the novak battery strap??

wouldn't having the RX over the servo and the esc were the RX is be far enough apart?? the power wires would be going over the motor to keep them from geting chewed up, and the motor wire arn't that long...


just thinking outloud here, but I can flip the motor mount around and have the motor facing the other way, the spur clears the chassis, and the motor is moved slightly to the servo side, my main worry would be the motor clearing the body, but I could alwase cut a hole and get more air over the motor, then move the esc to were the motor is now via plate between the batt boxes:neutral:

I guess I will play around with it when I get the motor in:whip:

I would put the esc in the back. You can make a small mudguard out of some scrap plastic to keep the dirt out. If you put the motor in the front it will stick out of the body and the first time you flip it over you may damage the motor and mount.

WOT!!! my motor came in today!!!:yipi::yipi::yipi::yipi:

I lil on the fast side, but I'm only driving in an open field right now.


did I enter the amp draw right?? 1000 cont. watts / 14.8:neutral:


cont.
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 border=1><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Differential Ratio: </TD><TD>3.3076923076923075</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Transmission Ratio: </TD><TD>1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Other Ratio: </TD><TD>1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Spur Tooth Count: </TD><TD>46</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Pinion Tooth Count: </TD><TD>12</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Voltage: </TD><TD>14.8</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor KV: </TD><TD>3300</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Diameter (inches): </TD><TD>4.6</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Ballooning (inches): </TD><TD>0</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor Current Draw: </TD><TD>67.56</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor coil Ω: </TD><TD>.004</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Spur/Pinion Ratio: </TD><TD>3.83 : 1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Ratio: </TD><TD>12.67949 : 1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Circumference (inches): </TD><TD>14.45 inches (367.06 mm)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Motor Speed: </TD><TD>47948.21 RPM</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Vehicle Speed: </TD><TD>51.75 mph (83.13 km/h)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Effective KV Value: </TD><TD>3239.74</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>KT constant: </TD><TD>0.41 oz-in/A</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor Torque: </TD><TD>0.14 ft-lbs</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Final Torque: </TD><TD>1.83 ft-lbs</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Final Power: </TD><TD>999.89 watts (1.3 HP)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

max
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 border=1><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Differential Ratio: </TD><TD>3.3076923076923075</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Transmission Ratio: </TD><TD>1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Other Ratio: </TD><TD>1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Spur Tooth Count: </TD><TD>46</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Pinion Tooth Count: </TD><TD>12</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Voltage: </TD><TD>14.8</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor KV: </TD><TD>3300</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Diameter (inches): </TD><TD>4.6</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Ballooning (inches): </TD><TD>0</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor Current Draw: </TD><TD>135</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor coil Ω: </TD><TD>.004</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Spur/Pinion Ratio: </TD><TD>3.83 : 1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Ratio: </TD><TD>12.67949 : 1</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Tire Circumference (inches): </TD><TD>14.45 inches (367.06 mm)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Total Motor Speed: </TD><TD>47058 RPM</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Vehicle Speed: </TD><TD>50.79 mph (81.59 km/h)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Effective KV Value: </TD><TD>3179.59</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>KT constant: </TD><TD>0.41 oz-in/A</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Motor Torque: </TD><TD>0.29 ft-lbs</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Final Torque: </TD><TD>3.65 ft-lbs</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD noWrap>Final Power: </TD><TD>1998 watts (2.7 HP)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

after its madin voyage, I have mixed fealings...

the pinion is a PIA to get on and stay on, I hope grinding a flat spot on the shaft solves this...

the esc gets a little hotter that I would like, 6(i think) LEDs after a 15min run, but yet the case wasn't hot to the toch and the hotest temp I got was 165 off of the solder posts. any sujestions on colling it down??

COGING!!!!:grrrrrr::grrrrrr::grrrrrr: its only a little going forward, but I can't back up at all, it just stutters:grrrrrr::grrrrrr:

OMFG I have POWER!!!!:yipi:

its at the track right now, so I'll get pics tomarow, but I realy like the way I layed it out

still sounds like a chainsaw...:whip:

anyone??/

Help with what? Cogging? Try changing your settings.

yes, but IDK what to change, the timeing is a 0, the current limiter is off, and it only cogs trying to back up

You timing can't be 0. Change it back to normal. That should fix it... Why the heck did you set the timing at 0?

the motor is a neu 1512 1.5d so its non adjustable timeing on that, nothing changes when I set the timeing to 5-15%

anyone know were to get the RC8 plastic spurs???


I think i found the prob, the CC bec is only set at 5.1v from the factory....

If it only cogs in reverse, what is the issue? It doesn't really matter in reverse. If you aren't overgeared I can't think of any more problems. Change all your settings backs to stock. I don't want to be mean, but if you set the timing to zero you probably set something else wrong...

I would see if your lhs carries or can order in rc8 spurs... It would be way faster and probably cheaper then ordering online. If they can't get any in, I guess you could get one on tower...

it doesn't GO in reverse, it just stutters(coging) and goes nowere

Would you mind posting a picture of your settings? If it isn't your settings, the only thing that comes to mind would be binding. Push the thing in reverse and see if it rolls as smoothly as forward. You could have a drivetrain problem.

What radio are you using? Sounds like you may need to zero everything to do with the throttle channel and recalibrate the radio to the esc. I am not familiar with tekin products, but if it works one way and not the other you may have a controller issue. Do you have the reverse % set very low?

its a JR XS3(75mhz fm), it has the same functions/adjustments as the spektrum DX3 without the whole spektrum thingy. I'm 100% positive that the setings on the controler are right...


the drivetrane isn't binding at all, so thats not it.





EDIT: I found the problem, the CC bec is set at 5.1v from the factory.:grrrrrr:I hooked up the esc without the external bec and problem solved...

anyone have a castle link I can barrow?

How is your bec causing the problem? If the esc works witout the bec then I guess it doesn't matter.... 5.1v is perfectly acceptable.

IDK why, but when I use the BEC thats built in with the tekin it works fine, and when I hook up the CC bec it cogs...:neutral:

So I need to review. Can you post any pics? I think you're using a tekin sensored controller with a Neu motor. Is the sensored esc and the sensorless motor the source of the problem?

img]www.postpics.com/likethis[/img]

nope, the esc is sensor/sensorless/brushed/brushless


what do you want pics of?? I'll get them tomarow

What the hell did you pay for the RS pro? I would never run mine in a 1/8th scale. That thing is too expensive to void the warranty by running on 4s. I'm getting ready to run my old mamba max that I paid $100 for (with the 5700 motor).

Maybe it would be a good idea to sell the RS pro and get a MMM?

P.S. if this does turn out to be a good idea please send me your cc bec so I don't have to duct tape my mini t battery into my MP777:mdr:

I bought it because I could get one cheaper than the retail price(ALOT cheaper):whistle: knowing what I know now, I would paid full price for one too.

when the RX8 becomes more avalable I'm going to sell the RS and the neu and buy one of the combos...

BTW there non warrenty repair/replacement> than castle's:wink::angel:

besides the RS goes back and forth between my mod class slash and the buggy


I still need to know what you want pics of...