:yipi:
got my parts today!
Mike, the cd/motor mount locks insanely amazing! :surprised:
great pice of work that one, really!

Pictures! Now! :yes: :lol:

Y.A.G. (yet another g-maxx)
 

Sorry for the delay!
Here's a little oversight over the parts from Mike's packet.
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling.../lieferung.jpg
This is the ingenious CD/motor mount:
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...motormount.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...otormount2.jpg
This is how it looks right now:
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...chenstand1.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...chenstand2.jpg

That'll do nicely, cheers! :yes:

So, Mike read my mind and stole one of my CD mounting ideas I see. If you ran a smaller spur (assuming you could), and maybe cut a slot in the chassis tray, you could perhaps lower the whole CD unit a little bit more. I like it alot though, very clean and incredibly simple- I wouldnt mind notching the insides of the X-braces to run a larger spur either, its such a clean and symterical layout it makes me all warm and fuzzy inside just looking at it.

Looking forward to more pics, especially some side profile ones when you get the motor installed, gotta see just how low that motor can go, and how much clearance their is between spur and chassis plate/rails...

PS, how much did the CD unit cost just out of interest?

Your Max looks purty kewl ! The Lightning diffs is a fantastic idea.
Ofna makes a great cnc'd shock stand-off,very cheap and super sturdy. 5$ for 4 in a pack.

Well, the spur gear would fit between the X-braces, but if I'd lower the CD-mount, the motor would colide with the rear plate. As it is right now, the motor (with a 12t pinion) sits above the rear plate by just 3,5mm.

Concerning the price, I'll send you a private message. Since I've never seen Mike directly answering to one of the "how much does a CD/motor mount cost" posts in the forums, I won't do it for him...

edit: PM is sent.
@Bondonutz:
Thank's, but what do you mean with "The Lightning diffs is a fantastic idea." ?
And why would I need Ofna stand offs?

I think he means the HB 1:8 scale diffs for the hybrids- I have the Lightning buggy diffs myself, great items.

No reason to change the shock standoffs though, they look fine (I need to do something with mine as the hole in the top shock cap is larger than the little inserts supplied with the GorillaMaxx suspension that is designed for normal maxx shocks, not 8T buggy shocks that I use).

Doesnt leave much room for the esc, but it should just about squeeze in behind the motor- uber short wires which is always good :yes:

Sorry for the confusion, I also have 2 LSP's.

I still don't get what the fantastic idea is in choosing the diffs mike has in his shop anyways :neutral:
And different shock stand offs would simply not work with the shock towers I'm using.
But never mind!

What do you guys think of this?
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/rad.jpg
I think, considering how cheap a trick this is (5€ for a tyre marker), the effect is remarkably :yes:

Even though it looks spiffy and was lots of work(time consuming), It'll get scrubbed off the first run. :neutral:

It looks good and isn't a lot of work :wink:
And how would I know how well/bad something works if I never tried anything because there is a posibility that it wouldn't last long. Based on this I shouldn't have built a bulletproof g-maxx, as there still is a chance that it could break.
So I'll stay with the "you'll never know before you try"-principle :yipi:

I agree, Nothing's bullet proof in this hobby. Gears in general are almost first on the list to go.

Little update:
As the Bigmaxximum has a 3mm muff(?) on it's front, I designed a sort of 3mm spacer for the rest of the motorfront because I wasn't satisfied with the overlapping of the pinion and the spur gear resulting from this muff.
Furthermore I ordered some shims from a lokal nitro-truck-shop (will most likely be the only thing I'm ever going to order there:lol:) and some dogbone springs and HB output joints from tower (because german dealers seem to think they can rip me off and demand three times the price:oh:) because I don't like how the 8mm drive cups are fastened on the hb pinions.

When all those parts arrived, I'm going to disassemble the whole truck and rebuild it again but with threadlock on the metal on metal threads. And I'm going to seal the hybrid bulks with Dreibond. So the diffs should stay free of dust and generally any other kind of debris.
Dreibond is like silicone for sealing purposes like in a bathroom but it doesn't get that sticky and is easier to remove if you need to, great product I know from my years as car mechanic :yipi:

Finally a short question: Do FLM diff cups for HPI Savage diffs fit with the Hot Bodies diffs? I thought, since HB is a part of HPI, the parts might be 100% compatible.

Good question, dont know the answer. Im fairly certain there are metal cups available for the HB diffs though, seen em mentioned on another forum a while back, havent been able to track them down though...

Have you checked nova for those diff cups?

Nova has HPI diff cups, but no word if they are compatible to the HB stuff:neutral:

Update:
I mailed FLM about their Savage diff cups yesterday:
"I just wanted to ask if those diff cups (FLM44000) for HPI also fit the HotBodies Lightning pro diffs? Since HB is a part of HPI I think there is a possibility the diff parts may be compatible."

That's the answer I got today:
"Their is actually a difference. We do have a diff for buggy gears, but I cannot say for certain if it will fit the pro diff."

I fear this is no that helpfull information...

yay:yipi:
*tripplepost!*

On Monday my shippent form towerhobbbies arrived and with it the last needed parts to get my g-maxx ready to roll.
So from monday evening till yesterday night I completely disassembled the g-maxx an rebuilt it, but this time using threadlock, sealing the FLM hybrid diff cases and shimming the pinions.
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ondhybrid1.jpg
Hope this keeps any dust away from my diffs.
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ondhybrid2.jpg

Furthermore I had to modify the shock mounting system / shock stand offs because the I wasn't satisfied with the way you had to tighten them.
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...ferpfosten.jpg
You can see the flat spots I had to dremel to get a grip with tolls, before it was completely round and you had no way to lock the bolt while tightening the hex nut.
I assume nobody has an idea what I'm talking about or how this system works, I'll take detailed pictures of that later, as I'm going to take pictures of the whole chassis later today.
And I'm going to put this monster on a scale and look how heavy it is.

To do:
Tape the tires and get some venting holes into them.
Waiting for money to rain form the skies so I can go buy some batteries.:whistle:



edit: would really love to edit the title of this thread by adding something like "g-maxx build starting page 3". But it seams this is not possible with the used board-software :sarcastic:

(Sorry for yet another post in a row but when I wanted to edit this into my last post there was something with "you got 17 pictures in you posting, 10 is maximum".)


Took the pictures and weighted it.
The chassis as it can be seen on the pictures below weighs 3235 gramms or 7.132 pounds if I converted it correctly. Is this ok or too heavy?

First the promised pictures of the shock stand off construction:
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling.../standoff1.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling.../standoff2.jpg

Secondly, especially for Neil, the requested side profile shots with mounted motor:party:
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/forneil.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling...x/forneil2.jpg

And finally some pics of the wohle chassis, if anyone want's to see some more detailed shots of certain parts, please just tell me.
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito1.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito2.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito3.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito4.jpg
http://home.arcor.de/tsjmnordgerling/g-maxx/finito5.jpg

I thought I jump in and post so you dont have a 4th post. So far everything is looking awesome. I am also building a g-maxx the silverback build . I just want too let you know you are lucky to get one of those center diffs because I have been looking to get one for over a year. I emailed mike multiple times and never get a reply, well at least about the cd. Maybe the old mighty dollar isnt worth as much here in the states anymore. OH yea! it isnt lol. I just bought some zippy lipos 2 3s 5000mah 30c for around $140 shiped I obviously havent used them yet but everyone says they work great and are probably the best bang for the buck. Maybe you should check them out as an affordable option. I didnt pay extra for the airmail option and still got them in a week.


Edit: too late Wow! that looks great a couple of questions though. Doesnt the ecm have a built in power supply for the reciever I was wondering why you are running a extra bat pack for it. Who makes those towers? and did you have to drill the towers for that thick bolt or am I seeing things wrong. Can you lay the ecm down I think it would look better. Over all looks awesome and that stand is cool.

Hehe thank's for trying though:lol:
About the centerdiff mount: first I had problems contacting him by e-mail as well, but then I sent him a PM here in the forums and told him what I wanted and that there seems to be a problem with my e-mails. He then told me I should try again and at the same time send him another PM so he could check his spam-filters. From then on it worked just fine:yes:
And it has definitly nothing to do with you paying him with dollars since that's the same sort of money he took from my credit card account:rofl:

If you try to contact him like I did with PM and everything, keep in mind that he's away till next Tuesday!

Regarding the LiPos, I'm going to get mine from Stefan from SLS (look at post No. 5 in this thread). I have one of his 5000mAh 3S 30/55C LiPos for my little Stampede VXL and it just rocks!
Regardless of that it's not that easy to get LiPos from America to Germany, Tower for example wouldn't ship over seas.
Anyways, Stefan's shop is only 38km away from me, so I'm going to get my batteries from him. Depending on if they fit into the chassis 1x2S + 1x3S 5000mAh 35/60C or if they are too big the same combination but with 30/55C like I have one in my Stampede.

The shock towers are from a German company: xtreme cross racing (possibly needs IE to work properly)
If you go on "Produkte" => "Shock Tower Kit" you can see the tower and you'll see that I had to drill nothing:wink:
They don't produce the parts anymore but still have a few left, but only in red and blue I think. And compared to the FLM and UE towers they are quiete expensive. I got mine from a guy in a German RC-forum. Got the polished (were originally red ones) and for about half the price because he didn't necessarily need them as they were form his show-truck. I chose them because they were the highest shock towers I could find which I needed because those are rear ofna/super shocks.

The Schulze ecm has no built in BEC so I woud have to use an external BEC or battery either way. And I prefer the battery solution.
Laying the ECM down would prevent the airflow through the cooling fins. As it is right now, the fan of the motor should suck air right through the cooling fins and help the ECM (isn't it ESC?) to stay cool. And with me it still is form follows function. So I prefer the ECM staying cool to the ECM looking good:mdr:

The stand is a cheapo 6€ plastic pice form an otherwise overly expensive electronics/RC shop:lol:

ESC = Electronic Speed Control

ECM = Electronic Control M..something.

ESC is the much more commonly used abbreviation :yes:

The weight as it currently stands is pretty much the same as my truck, so its prettymuch what you'd expect; add 4 wheels & tires, and the lipos, and it will probably be around the 10-11lb region is my guestimate...

Looks seriously sweet so far :mdr:

ecm = electronic control module I have also heard it called a speedy lol

speedo. I'll catch up 2nite on this thread. I just thought I'd drop in. HA

When did he make you the CD/motor mount?? I've sent him quite a few different messages quite a few different ways and have gotten very little out of him. I'm not the only one either. I want it soo bad. Very nice.

I first mailed him on 24.03.2009.
And parts were shipped on 09.06.2009.
I took quite a while I admit but within those three months Mike released his slipperential (loads of work for him), Flextek and Maxximizer took their time to get the parts to Mike as well (was quite a big shippment, not only the CD mount) and there was a rc-show where Mike participated (took at least one week of his time).
Sometime in this timeframe Mike made the CD-mount and the center driveshafts I asked him for.
But I can't imagine why he wouldn't make those CD mounts for everyone who asks as he made one for me. I have absolutely no special connection to Mike other then being registered in the rc-monster forums (not even for a long time compared to most of you guys) and having sent him an e-mail and asked if he could make one.

So if I were you, I just would ask him again and make shure he recieves the mail.
Even if my CD mount would have been the first of it's kind (I really can't imagine that!), from now on it should be easy for Mike to make additional ones since he only has to reproduce parts he allready designed and sell them.

I have to say, I'm really puzzled that everyone want's a CD mount but hasn't gotten one.:oh:

I'm going getting my G3R done next week - I'll speak to him about it but the issue is it requires precise drilling I believe of the bottom plate - Mike has a jig or programme for it but I think he's nervous of just shipping them out and people shagging up their cars

Actually I think he has redesigned it . It doesnt bolt to the centerskid any more. It ataches to the bottom of the xbrace where the trans bolts too. Look at the pics youll see what I mean. I emailed about one of these in early 2008 and never got a response. The first one I saw was parylized's cd and I wanted one ever since.

Well with the maxx chassis it is bolted right in the place where normaly the transmissioncase sits. But I think this could become an issue with the gorilla-revo-chassis as bigger/longer motors would most certanly collide with the rear shocks.
But never had a G2/3R chassis so I don't know for sure...

Nothing has changed. The shape of the gorrilla chassis can fool you.

I guess the lower plates are the only difference. Ones for a maxxx style chassis (top) and the other is for a g-maxx style .
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...permaxx/dm.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...motormount.jpg
I want one bad! it isnt fair!:cry: lol

You know what you are right. LOL My bad.

It kills me also that I am unable to get one.

It might be worth seeing if MetalMan or Serum can help you out- they are both talented custom builders in their own right- look in Serum's photo album and you'll see the earliest examples of the G2 / G2r specific motor mounts of this type that he worked on along with Mike (there are also threads to match floating around someplace...):

http://picasaweb.google.com/buikpijn/RevoCenterdiff

So, the day of the first run is coming closer...
Went to Stefan yesterday and got me some nice LiPos.:yipi:
4x 2S 5000mAh 35/60C hardcase
So it's soldering time I guess.:lol::whip:

Went out driving today, after I replaced those stupid tower hobbies drive cup springs, which are an epic fail, with fuel tubes...
What can I say? This thing is an absolute blast!!!
Bit uncontrollable on gravel. Give it the beans and I starts spinning in tiny little circles despite the centerdiff.:intello:
Even managed half a backflip...
On gravel...
Uphill...
With a center diff:yipi::lol:

Handles like a dream, maybe a little more initial tension on the back springs.
Definetely need thread lock on the wheel nuts though.
As for the Bigmaxximum, it pulls away absolutely smooth, no cogging at all:yipi:

Really looking forward to drive this truck on a track!
As for a video, I'll see what I can do, have no camera my self, but IIRC a friend of mine should have one.

Hey guys!
Finally had a chance to give it the beans on a football ground, veeery nice!
No balooning even when doing wheelies, seems like tapeing the tires worked.
But two questions: The motor went up to nearly 80°C (~175°F) and the ESC stayed at about 60°C (~140°F), the LiPos didn't get noticeable warm.
First question: Whats the max. temperature for an e-motor (Bigmaxximum in my case)?
Second question: Does this mean it's undergeared? If yes, that means I could/should get a bigger or smaller pinion?

Only loss was the antenna end cap that I lost doing a sort of frontflip caused by hard braking. Everything else works perfect, only thing to do is, if you guys say so, changing the pinion and, since yesterday my DX3R arrived, changing the receiver unit.

Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared (either increase pinion tooth count or decrease spur tooth count)
Cool motor, hot controller, hot batteries = overgeared (decrease pinion tooth count or increase spur tooth count)
Warm motor, warm controller, warm batteries = happy components
hot motor, hot ESC, and hot batteries = overgeared

Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more

The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.

The list goes on, but this can give you an idea of things to watch for. btw I did not write this. The pinion needs to be bigger if you want to gear higher.

Hey guys!
I'm thinking of getting a tekno RC receiver-box and a sportBEC.
Question is: is the receiver box big enough to fit the Spektrum SR3100 receiver AND the sportBEC inside?

Other than that: the truck is running great but sadly not very often due to a lack of possibilitys, time and equipment (no 12V charger) :(

Went out for a drive today, a friend of mine filmed it. Anyone interrested in the results?

Of course... Dont keep us in the dark...