How do you like the turnigys?

love em. the best packs i have, i will only buy those from now on. For only 10 bucks a cell, its insane! i might be picking up a 6s 5000 20c soon. for 60$ its almost just worth buying it for the heck of it!

Well i have just brought a 5s 5000mah 30c Turnigy and a 300x100mm 2.5mm thick sheet of carbon fiber to make a battery tray with. Still debating designs.

You can look here at my project. Last battery tray is best one, it can stand enought forces and it has rubber sheets to protect and keep battery from moving and lexan on side to protect battery from stones.

Thanks mate :)

How does that battery tray work? I don't really get it. lol

Well i dont change batterys much, so it does work perfectly for me, it can be done also with clips or something like that.
Top deck is removable, its hold down with screws, there is thin rubber sheet betwene battery and topdeck so it basicly pushes battery against tray. Tray is made specialy for these batterys so only empty space is at both ends where rubber sheets are now placed.

Ah, i have brought two Velcro straps to hold the battery down. I want easy removal.

Well today i got my 5s Turnigy and my carbon fiber. I only waited 3 days too!

Only need my tower order now then im ready to get this thing screaming down the road :)

Your going to love it on 5s the power is amazing. What oil are you going to run in the center diff?

I just put 50k Diff oil in the center diff, seems pretty good now.

Im also working on the battery tray. Its a mix of ally and carbon fiber. Its going to look very shiny and slick :)

Pictures will follow the next couple of days.

Well i am 50% finished my tray but i'm a bit worried about the balance of the truggy. I have the motor mounted the right rear side of the chassis and the battery the front left side....Would it be better the have the battery mounted opposite the motor up the rear end?

I was thinking the same thing I wish I had a pic of my current setup but imagine a long rhino pack(I think it's like 174mm) and a the motor on the back right hand corner.
Here's an older pic:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/DSC00600.jpg

i would make a tray and space it up from the chassis, drill and tap holes in the chassis, so you can secure the MMM with zip ties to, it will come undone like that for sure

Big Boi: I dont have an RCM motor mount so my motor weight isn't being put at the centre of the chassis, its put at the rear right side.

The battery tray is finished and it looks sweeeet. All i need now is my tower order which is due to arrive any day now.

Pictures will follow tonight.

Pictures:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_0326.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_0327.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_0329.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_0330.jpg

So very close to the spur in this photo, might need a guard.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_0331.jpg

I will use some sticky back foam to give the battery some padding. Also need my battery straps from tower.

Balance should be ok with motor (right rear) and battery (front left).truggies tend to lift the front wheels up,and go nose up over jumps.I'd leave it and see if it suits the way you drive it.

sexy battery tray! definitely protect the side near the spur. good work.

Well it will look better once i have cut a new piece of CF square.

My MMM arrived today :) Need to fix the motor mount AGAIN or just make another one...

Pictures aren't top quality but they will do for the time being :)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo161.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo162.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo163.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo165.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo166.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/Photo167.jpg

Yes i know the motor wires are being stretched but i have unplugged them and i'm fixing that tomorrow.

Any one know what plastic spurs will fit?

That looks nice. do you have plans to make the battery tray a box, rather than a slot of sorts? Because if your velcro lets go during a run that'd not be good...

looks good besides the novak sticker:whip:

Yes i may make a battery box, but i;m very happy with the velcro im using as its very strong.

Novak sticker in on the because im using novak pinions. $22 for 3 pinions!!

Just took it for a run and all i can say is WOW! This thing has so much power its just not funny! F/R balance seems pretty good on the road, maybe just a tad nose heavy.

yea you are right the novak pinions are about the best thing they make for 1/8 scale! lol

I seem to have a meshing problem so i need to make a whole new motor mount design....AGAIN!!

The RCM mount looks good right about now...

YES! RCM mount FTW!

that's what I have thought in the first place.
but, a new and solid one is not a problem. just make it a bit "wider", so the mount reaches to the plastic mount of the center diff. you can use the mounting holes of the mechanic breaks, and with two screws the mount is also connected with the diff. like that, meshing is impossible. w. some fresh saw blades, driller etc. it's no big deal at all, but cheap and solid.

The problem i'm having is that the motor is sliding away from the spur gear no matter how tight i do the two screws up. I have come up with a way of using two long grub screws. I will draw up a picture of what i mean. (i cant explain things very well).

hmm, i think I know what you mean, I had the same problem.

first you should use some (light) loctite bolt lock (not the hardcore stuff!!), and some proper washers. with the washers you have a larger surface for the bolts/screws. I know there is only little space for washers, but it works. I think at the moment you have only very little survace with that bolt.

further I think the polished surface causes that problem, too.

I don't think that you need to make a totally new mount.

but later you probably could add a metal plate (just inbetween motor an the mount, with the same holes for srews and motor-axle), that braces the mount to the center-diff. like that you keep the acutal mount, and just have to make new mounting holes in the chassis.
I don't know how to explain that, a bit like that:
http://s1.directupload.net/images/09...p/is4pgmkn.jpg
http://s8.directupload.net/images/09...p/wk3ppbiq.jpg

hth
florian

Pictures don't work.

I have solved the problem by using a mount i previously made. It's a beefy version of the RCM mount. Just need to fix a small problem with the mount and clean it up.

I also have the problem with the pinion coming off the shaft all the time. I have put loctite on the grub screw and will test it tomorrow.

Any other ideas if loctite doesn't work?

maybe the mount is not parallel/in line to the diff, so it pulls the pinion off.
loctite should help. is the flat area on the shaft still ok?

Yeah flat area is fine....

I had a successful day of running the Hyper ST. Pinion hasn't left the shaft all day.

A problem i will try to sort out tomorrow is getting the wheels balanced so my truggy isn't getting shaken to bits.

Also my 30c 5s Turnigy lipo is performing very well and doesn't get too warm. Takes 128mins to fully charge. Loads of power!

hey mate ,great work ,good to see you got it all sorted:yipi: ,when will we see a vid....:whistle:

Hey, Not today. We are having the worst weather down here at the moment.

Jas when you ran this ST were the wheels really unbalanced for you?

Pictures:
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_4338.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_4339.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_4335.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_4336.jpg

11t pinion is the smallest you can fit with the 2200kv Motor.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...o/IMG_4340.jpg

Cool pics mate,sorry mate can't remember if they were or how it was....hexes may need shimming maybe.

Your steering rod end popped off.... :lol:
Looks good mystro, the new mount is lightyears ahead of your other ones.

Fixed the unbalanced problem by using fishing lead weights :) Works really well.

I take the steering rod of when its not in use because it doesn't turn left when there is no power.

One little problem i'm having is that i'm not getting much range with my DX2.0 Radio. I can drive the car about 40metres up my road until it starts to glitch. Ariel sticks out the body shell and batteries are fully charged....it may be the powerlines, but i would have thought being a 2.4ghz system it would go ALOT further than that.