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-   -   Monster esc refurbs for $100! (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22414)

kalbien 07.23.2009 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Revonut (Post 306763)
If you want to eliminate the switch the best way is to cut the leads about an inch from the case, strip the ends, twist them together, Spode them and cover with shrink wrap. This doesn't void the warranty since your not soldeing on the board. if you ever feel the need to put a switch back on there should still be enough wire there to solder to

so switching esc on/off by unplugging batteries is perfectly ok?

Arct1k 07.23.2009 08:08 AM

Perfectly ok...

hemiblas 07.23.2009 04:47 PM

Switches like the one found on the traxxas velineon are a bad idea. I have had some issues with them not working. Since they are used to program the esc it makes it that much harder. I think the gaskets for the watertight connection might have something to do with it, but they were constantly sticking in the on position as a result. I had to do a lot of wiggling to program them and turn them on and off.

This is a great deal.

If it saves a couple bucks then removing the switches isnt a bad idea. It might help with returns as a bad switch might make someone send in a perfectly good MMM for warrantly work that would otherwise not have happened.

redshift 07.23.2009 05:03 PM

"a bad switch might make someone send in a perfectly good MMM for warrantly work that would otherwise not have happened."

Ulterior motive? lol

Seems the micro switches die alot because they don't carry enough current to keep the contacts 'clean' -- I know this applies more to AC, but as an example I put LEDs in my bike's taillight years ago. They were the socket-type drop ins, and I had real problems with them flickering or not working at all, until I hardwired them. Figured out that there just was not enough flow there and the slightest corrosion was causing a broken circuit.

Now even under ideal conditions the switches seem iffy, add some salt, sand etc to the equation and.......

BrianG 07.23.2009 06:17 PM

There's not much current flowing through these switches - they are probably just grounding a pull-up resistor or something just to signify 0 or 1 to a logic input. However, if the circuit has a high input impedance (which this does), any resistance in the switch may not trip the circuit like it is supposed to. Corrosion, dust, etc all increase contact resistance, so instead of a solid 0 or 1, the circuit sees something in between.

If a switch is desired, go to RadioShack and get one of their closed frame toggle switches. I personally like the mini toggles rated for 5A. No, 5A is way overkill, but a higher current switch will have a much more solid "snap" actuation, which is helpful to prevent hard jolts from triggering it accidentally. Also, I cut down the toggle part a bit so there is less weight for inertia to act upon.

George16 07.23.2009 11:07 PM

These ESCs are back in Castle's website for ordering. I just ordered mine yesterday and received an email from Christy confirming my order and taking off 30% from the price because I'm in the military (Navy). I'm currently on deployment and having some RC withdrawal since I wasn't able to bring with me any of my trucks :neutral::neutral:.

Thanks Castle for supporting us in the military :party::party::party:.

big greg 07.23.2009 11:25 PM

damn 70$ thats good!

Jarvis 07.24.2009 12:47 PM

Hello Patrick,

I ordered one of these for a back up today. Will you make this a standing offer from now on?

Ex. Someone sends a MMM in for replacement and you guys repair and sale the used one for $100.

jzemaxx 09.10.2009 09:19 PM

Anymore left of the refurbs?....need another spare.


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