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I would be interested in one for sure, add me to the list. I already have the big bores, and I don't think there's too much changed on the suspension but I could be wrong. Does anything swap over? I need to find out. I know the 6 series plastics wear even better than the 5 series so it would be nice to swap out my plastic for 6 stuff later on.
5.5T sounds awesome too :mdr: The SHIFT body is really sleek, very good on a track. Oh, and I'm very close to making my own chassis with milled cutouts for the battery trays, servo, motor, etc. It would be just like the setup I'm using now, but I might go with Mike's mount for easy mounting and less holes in the chassis. The Tekno mount is pretty light though, so maybe I can do some weighted tests between Mike's mount, the Tekno with plates and center diff plastic piece, and that Elite RC mount. That is, of course, if Mike doesn't make his 5.5T chassis. |
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Mike did say that a simple switch over to a 6T chassis w/5T components would not work...differences in more than was first hoped for so it is not really a feasible idea unfortunately. (Would've been too simple.) |
the biggest benefit except the new geometry on 6 is 10mm longer chassis.
my MBX5t has BCE chassis, mbx6t pillow balls, shocks and mud guards and now I got the new MBX6t bulldog body. however I still think that MBX6T will handle better out of the box. Still 3 months before racing season start so I will probably get MBX6T so I can compare. |
Yes, please do! I have the BCE chassis as well, but never had the stocker to begin with - is it longer? I'm not sure if I would benefit from a longer chassis, I'm not on huge tracks. The one pictured above is by far the biggest I'll be on until someone expands or makes a much larger track in my area, which is doubtful.
What's the low-down on the 6T pillowballs? I have the teflon coated balls in the front of my 5T, not sure if they're stock or aftermarket. I need to get some of those mud guards when I race outdoors though, I got some mud on my rear CVDs when it rains. You got any more tips for the 5T wallot? I heard there's something called m2 braces for the front and rear that allow access to the diffs in like 4 screws, heard of those? Any good/worth it? Oh, and what are you runtimes like? |
BCE is 5mm longer making the truck more stable over bumps. also jumps better.
6T pillow balls are lighter. any hopup balls will do. I run buggy +1mm offset hubs to make my truck more narrow. By mudguards i mean the chassi side guards :) Just had to drill one hole in the middle. Font a rear fit ok. 6T guards are taller in the front so less dirt gets in. for rear axle guards just cut piece of lexan. slipperential, diffs 20-20-5 oil 350 front 300 rear hardest RC8T springs (bronze) truck handles great however I still miss bit of corner speed and I think that 6T will be faster through corners |
Ah I see, so did the BCE chassis come with an extended rear or front CVD? I got mine with the chassis already installed on the truck.
My pillowballs were pretty light, I'll leave 'em alone. I usually race on indoor clean tracks, so I'll leave the mudguards alone and add some axle guards out of lexan. How do you like 20K in the front? Does it push? How is off power steering? On power steering? What kind of tracks and conditions do you race on? I'm on a dusty track while I'm visiting here and the AKA city blocks in soft compound seem to be the ticket with the 7K front. Perhaps your corner speed is a result of the 20K up front? |
BCE is 5mm longer in the rear and the stock CVD works fine - no need for extended.
20k in the front works great. I run calibers VTR or revolvers VTR . Truck steers great both on and off power, however as it is bit more narrow it likes to traction roll like buggy so i need to be bit more carefull Tracks are mostly hard packed, dusty. I really like how the truck handles as it is quite light for 5T 4200g RTR with 5s 3300mah hyperions |
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Hopefully by having several of us interested in one, he will be more open to the idea |
the great benefit of 6t is the new steering geometry. just the chassis is not worth IMHO
and I already have BCE chassis. extra 5mm would mean new rear CVD |
Right, I don't think I'd need the new chassis now that I know the BCE is longer. I would search for one of those magman. Otherwise it's time to go to a 6T for me when I get he chance.
My 5T is pretty light too even with the extra battery tray. I would like to see how much lighter the VTR Revolvers and Calibers are compared to my Jconcepts/City blocks combo, which is already pretty light. |
AKA tires - ~220g per wheel - same as other LPR
Calibers/Revolvers VTR ~200g Holeshots VTR ~185g |
So they are lighter, good stuff, I'll have to try them. Just got back from racing and broke my shock mount on the drivers rear arm, looks like the arm kracked, screw fell out, shock went through the bottom of the arm. Easy fix, but I don't have enough batts to race the main anyway so I just left. It was fun while I was here though! Time to rebuild the truck, I have a few ideas I want to try out including a new placement of the ESC and Rx.
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Wow really? I saw an entire truck with the BCE chassis go for $150, maybe I should have bought it! hah! I guess you'll have to find a whole truck then part it out.
Here's one for $200 with some good stuff on it- http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ing-headz.html Another for $200 with BCE http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ssis-sale.html Saw another one with the BCE chassis for $125, the whole truck |
I actually just found BCE's site and it does appear that they still make the 5T chassis...although it is $ 98-. A lot of $ for just a chassis.. http://www.shop.bcespeed.com/main.sc
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Yeah they've always been $100 though. If you're not racing, I wouldn't worry about it.
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The second listing on RCTech is actually a good deal if someone is inclined especially considering you could have a complete spare truck for the price of a complete set of new diffs As far as overall handling, does it make a big difference...even for just bashing/jumping...just curious |
for jumping yes - car is more stable, however things like backflips are much harder. I cant make a backflip with my racing setup - tried it with standard racing LPR tires. Heavier tires will be needed. (and I tried during a show for kids during a BMX race so I was on very big jumps)
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I tried it too, more possible to land on my lid than on all fours. I can do front flips though :mdr:
I don't think the BCE is a good chassis for bashing. It's meant to be raced and the difference will be so small you'll probably be disappointed. Save your cash and get more lipos or something unless you're in love with the BCE stuff then go for it. |
Getting faster on the small tracks with this truck. Dialed down the expo, little less EPA, getting it dialed in better. Might need to put different oil in the shocks but we'll see.
Oh, and the RX8 died last night...not sure why. |
Well I sold this beast last week. Moving onto new things. I gotta say, loved this truck and I'll own another Mugen someday.
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Did you see my new post in this forum? Arrrr seeee ate teee!!!!
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