The rears are a little on the long side, especially since rpm a-arms dont give you many adjustment options (for ride height).

Something like these or these would be great, though the larger 16mm diameter shocks may rub on the inside of the a-arms and the drive shafts, so the 12-14mm diamter shocks would be best; 4-4.5 inches long is fine.

okey thanks. but is it okey to use 4 shocks whit RPM arms? i will not break anything?
are 4 ofna better than 8 big bore? i think i will by some of these, but help me to choose:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCWT4&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTCJ4&P=SM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP65&P=ML

do anybody now if some a-arms are made for single shocks, like the old GM and Flextek(?)? and can i find GM arms somewhere?

Its more than ok just to use 4 shocks instead of 8, nothing will break or bend - most people just place the shocks towards the rear on the rear end, and towards the front at the front end.

I really wouldnt bother buying new shocks that have to be assembled, its alot cheaper and easier to buy lightly used shocks or brand new shocks removed from an rtr vehicle- exactly like I posted before. I would wait until you have the a-arms with you to tell what diameter shocks you can use with them- 16mm body ones are a little on the tight side I know for certain as another member used them and said they rubbed on the stock driveshafts, and had to trim the inside of the upper a-arms for clearance.

okey thanks.

what is the difference between Maxx aluminum front and rear combo bulkhead set (FLM17500 & 18500)
and
Maxx front and rear hybrid bulks (FLM17700 & FLM18700)
is it the hybrid i should choose?

The combo bulkhead set is for the stock traxxas diffs as far as I know.
You need the hybrid bulks to use 1/8 diffs.

Yep, combos use 3906 gears- I wouldnt bother with them as they dont address the main problem with the stock diffs, which is only 4 spider gears.

okey. great.i mailed maike twice but he dont answer me... i need the chassi and the rest to start build.what should i do? some other shop?

Send him a personal message here in the forums.
I had the same problems that he didn't get my mails until I contactet him, I assume something with his spamfilter.
Mike really shoul take care of this issue though...

And try to be patient, this whole mailing, ordering and shipping might take a while anyways!

how much patient must i have??

is this servo to slow or is it a good for my car:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXTHR3&P=K
should i buy anotherone, maybe this:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXRJS4&P=K

I just meant it may take a few days and you shouldn't run off to another shop just because of this.
As I said, send Mike a personal message through the forums, your mails most likely got lost in his spam filter. Or did you do that allready?

edit: The hitec servo is more then good, I myself have a weaker one in my g-maxx.

yes i send mike an PM a few days ago...
nice tanks for the tips about the servo,
is it possible to use both zero offset and 1/2 offser wheels to the maxxtrucks

Yes it is.

Hm, then send him another message...
...or write in really big letters in this thread, who knows, it might work:lol:

can i or can i not use RRP DOUBLE DISC SLIPPER with the new emaxx tranny? i think it was neil that told me it was possible but not 100%
what is my option? i had that slipper in my g-revo and liked it.

It may be possible to use it with the new maxx tranny, but surely not without modifications.
But I have heard no complaints about the slipper from the new maxxyet, so it should be fine to just use the stock slipper.
But it might be an idea to get the 0.8 mod spur gear from RRP so you can use 0.8 pinions with the motor...

so the stock slipper is my best option?

Shoud be good point to start.
I think it was Neil (may be mistaken there, as he just is the probably most active guy round here) who modded a slipper from the e-revo to fit the old tranny, so it couldn't be too bad.

Yep. The RR slipper will only work on the old emaxx due to the input shaft designs being different (hex shaped vs smooth shaft). It might be possible to use the old emaxx input shaft in the new emaxx tranny, but thats only speculation; havent seen anyone try it.

If working with the new emaxx, I'd keep to the standard slipper really.

use revo input shaft with gorilla single speed conversion.
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...axx/th_1-1.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...axx/th_2-1.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...-maxx/th_3.jpg
then you can use the new emaxx slipper design

But then he would have to use the older, weaker and with the g-maxx single speed conversion more expensive gearbox of the old 3906 e-maxx.
And he would need adapters to use the old tranny in the FLM chassis because the chassis is designed for the new tranny.
To get a complete new tranny from the new 3905 e-maxx definately is the better choice.

Indeed, we're confusing him with the different slipper options- he's using the new emaxx tranny & aftermarket chassis, so the stock tranny and slipper for the new emaxx is what he needs.

thanks

hmm... gorillamaxx got the G4 in stock. witch should i buy??? FLM or GM G4?
i will never put this car on a track.

Oh dear...
Not that again:lol:

I thought you decided to get the FLM allready?
And if you only want to bash the FLM should have more advantages, like:
higher ground clearence, cheaper to buy and therefore cheaper to replace if you kill it while bashing:wink:

i dont now. from the beginning was it a G4 i would like to buy..

Then get it!
I'm thinking about getting a G4 myself, wouldn't know what do do with it right now, but 130€ just seems like such a bargain:lol:

maybe...will all the other FLM parts fit the G4? hybrid bulkhed?skidplats?

Yes they will, was no problem with the g3 chassis and the flm-hybrids, won't be a problem with the new stuff as well.
I'm pretty shure because the G4 chassis directly fits to the stock traxxas bulks and the FLM bulks directly fit the stock chassis.

Hm, no more skidplates included in the new gorilla chassis...
That's poor...

i mailed and asked GM if they have the G3 suspension. if they have one set i will buy it. then i will go for the FLM. i like "flo65"s FLMcar.

I have a g-4 and I think its awesome. I dont race either , just a basher. It a awesome design and so choice. All current emaxx parts will bolt on either g-maxx or flm chassis and about 90% of older 3906 parts will fit also. My unfinished g-maxx new improved all aluminum Silverback build below.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2556.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2557.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2558.jpg
Heres the doner:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2471.jpg

nice. is it just RPM or flextek arms you guys suggest. flextek are expensive and RPM looks boring...

I would have rpm arms over flextek. 2 reasons #1 is price #2 The truetrac design is the $hit! alot like my UE racer x rear suspension.

Well, you have to decide if you want a hardcore bashing truck or if you want a brilliant looking shelf queen.
Maybe you want to compare the prices of good aluminium suspensions and the price of the flextek suspension and see if the difference is really that big.

One thing you might want to keep in mind: if you build an all alluminium truck, you can't predict what's the most likely part to break. But it's allways going to be expensive.
If you do it like me, you have aluminium bulks which are pretty stable and stiff.
Have titanium suspension arms which are stable but can flex if you crash it.
And the plastic (RPM) axle carriers break if it gets too much, but are cheap and easy/fast to replace. Same thing for the plastic drive shafts, they keep the too hard punishment away from the hardened differentials, drivecups/outdrives and tranny.

Just my 2 €cents...

Actually, I believe the UE racer x cost more than flextek especially with the rear setback arms and front high impact arms. With flexytek you get cast titanium arms that are the same design and geometry as the stock arms. They flex when hit just like rpm does for alot less money. The down side to this is I have heard alot people complain they bent hinge pins like crazy including ti pins because of the flexing.I also heard cvd's take alot of punishment also with flexytek.
The UE racer x arms have improved geometry that removes bump steer and is completly adjustable. All UE aluminum is T6 7075 aq billet and is stronger and harder than any aluminum you can buy. Although brillant looking, I assure you they are strong and can take a hit. I have jumped 10' in the air and landed hard without any issues. If you do the same with flexytek you will probably end up buying another set of titanium hinge pins. That can get expensive over time @ $20 a pop. Stock plastic drives and diffs wont last a day with the power of my setup. That why I run titanium center drivshafts with UE hardened cups, steel UE cvds and 1/8 scale 8 spider diffs in UE ultralite diff cases, This is probably most bullet proof set up you can get for an emaxx. My truck is all aluminum but it isnt the cheap stuff made by integy. I really dont need to defend UE aluminum products they make the best parts money can buy period. You may pay more but in the end you know your getting strength and long lasting quality.

For one: Yes, the flextek stuff has the same geometry but are a different design.
But where you are wrong: UE doesn't make the best parts, they made the best parts. Sadly.
So just getting them, in a regular shop, not from any forums or from ebay, is practically impossible. Getting them from UE, if they had anything in stock or were producing anything at all, getting those parts from outside the US really sucks!
No paypal? No non-US-creditcards? Oh please...

So I don't see which sense it makes to discuss parts, for a new build, which aren't available...
I'm not saying UE is no good, don't get me wrong there! On the contrary, I really would like to get some parts from them.

Really they are not making anything anymore?????
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/10108.html
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/10109.html
The list goes on! lots of stuff in stock and plenty of guys in the forums willing to buy it for you and ship it too you.
Yes it is true they are not making alot of parts anymore, it not as profitable anymore thats why ebay and forums are your best places to buy stuff. My truck is about 90% used stuff and I paid ~50% on the dollar for it from retail prices. The stuff is availiable you just have too look. Nice set of racerx on the bay right now for a good deal. The ue forum has guys selling new or like new parts all the time. In fact I seen about 3 whole trucks be sold in parts in the last 30 days and some were new at discounted prices.

Oh, nice VBS/VBS-T parts available there!
Same goes for the driveshafts and the servosaver, in fact all the parts I would be interested in...:wink:
And those parts must have been out of stock for years now, that is what I call "not producing any more".
Sad but true. I really would like to get my hands on those parts, but I don't have the nerves to go through all the forums (rc-monster beeing the only English-speaking rc-forum I'm active) every day, because there might be some UE parts for sale. Even if I were to, allways the issue that not everyone is shipping to Europe.
And giving someone I don't know half way round the world loads of money to buy things for me and hoping they are good at heart and actually ship the stuff to me, I don't know...


But I think we're really getting offtopic here and should stop it.

YES! as a mater of fact there is one left: http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ad.php?t=22372
Question is do you have the money too buy it. Robin say its too expensive to produce those parts only the elite few will buy and its not profitable. I seen 2 new gen 4 ss go through the bst forum in the last 2 weeks. You keep giving excusses why you dont have UE parts and its bs there plenty availiable you just have to join other forums look and be willing to spend the cash. We have lots of guys over on the UE forum from different countries so you just have to step outside the box and meet them.

iam happy. mike send my an message and told me he almost have all my parts. i think he will ship in a few days.

i think a start with:
-FLM chassi
-FLM hybrid bulkheads
-FLM towers
-FLM skids
-GM battery strap
-FLM bulk X
-HB diffx2
-stock tranny
-RPM a-arms
-stock plastic CVD
-OFNA shocks (is this a god choice:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXCWT4&P=K
-badlands


what centershaft should i use?i get a center whith the FLM chassi but can i use it with stock tranny? HB diffcup i one end but what do i have in to the tranny? will the flm cups fit the tranny?

is this an okey setup to start with?