because i am new to the large and nice of a ESC, i can use my new MMpro in a 1/8th scale buggy application?

Yep. It was designed to work in 4S 1/8 scale buggy setups.

very nice!
I was torn on this esc or the SW. Glad i picked this one up instead..

im useing the HS 7955TG (s) in almost everything i own, includeing my 8ight


honestly i may not need that much power but then we dont need 6cell in buggys either:lol:

well i ran the MMP in my 1/8 buggy D8 and all i can say is WOW ! smooth and fast no heat problems what so ever ! here is my set up
MMP
castle 2200kv
hyperion 4s 5000 g3
15t pinion
50 spur i think what ever stock is
the motor never got up past 100 and the esc would come off at 115ish after 7min
hats off to castle you guys did a great job !

:party:

So Fat kid Joe's problem was the servo? He said he added a cap to the reciever and the problem went away, his Beta version didn't show the same problem and 2 other people have the same problem he had. He (I guess) put the MMP into another car and doesn't have the problem (I guess with a different servo)?

Jeff

I think I'm one of the "other 2 people" that you're referring to......

The problem I was having was definately a messed up servo and had nothing to do with the ESC.

Since replacing the servo, the ESC performs GREAT! :yes:

It's in a Rustler now on 5S. It's alot of power and the esc doesn't seem to mind at all. :yes:

Way to go Castle! I think you hit the ball out of the park on this one.

yes i still run the cap , it helps alot it wont shut off anymore :)

So Joe, have you checked out your servo?

sikeston34m, Yes you and Joe's friend are the other 2 I was refering to. What was wrong with your servo?

Jeff

I believe it was a factory defect. I took the servo apart and it's control board was burnt.

This tells me that I "over amped" the BEC inside the MM Pro, without damaging it.

I also believe the BEC has over amp protection.

As a servo's gears begin to wear, it draws more current. If a person is having problems like this, my advice would be to check your servo.

So it was a new or pretty new servo in your case? I am wondering why adding a cap "fixed" Joe's problem.

Jeff

WARNING: Long boring technical explanation follows: :sleep:

We've seen the same thing on the bench since this problem was reported. Apparently, some of the JR servos draw peaks (short -term) of several (5-6) amps for a couple milliseconds when changing direction. (We have speculated that the drive transistors in the servo are shooting-through during direction changes, but haven't yet verified that.) It's just barely long enough of a surge to trip the BEC over-current protection in the MMPro, and it shuts off the BEC for about 50ms. Adding a big capacitor to a servo connector (like a stutter-stopper) supplies enough current during those big surges to keep the MMPro from tripping the over-current on the BEC.

We are bench testing a hardware change that will add a very slight delay to the over-current shutdown on the MMPro to compensate for the JR servos.

Note that we have only seen this behavior on two specific JR servos, and adding some capacitance to the BEC line seems to be a good fix for the issue.

Patrick

Thats why I love this forum and CC, where else and what other manufacturers would talk as openly and get as detailed technically as Patrick and crew do here. You guys rock!

No such thing as a long boring technical explanation. Thanks for the info.

So could the same thing be happening on the hitec servo as well? What is the minimum amount of capacitance you would recommend?

Thanks

Jeff

Cool info Patrick. I wonder what causes this current "shoot through"? Could it be a timing issue with the H-bridge on the servo driver circuit? I suppose it doesn't matter since there is little that can be done short of getting a new servo. I just hope adding a delay doesn't mask a true problem because repeated current bursts from a legitimate condition could overheat the BEC and eventually cause a true failure. The BEC looks like it has foldback current limiting, so that's good. Adding a simple capacitor to an unused servo port on the receiver is an easy and cheap solution IMO. Anything between 1000uF and 4700uF @ 10v rating should be sufficient. Any higher capacitance may actually trip the BEC's overcurrent protection when the cap intitially charges. And even though the BEC output is virtually noise-free from the MMPros I've looked at, a cap would also filter any noise which some receivers are sensitive to.

The same thing could happen to any servo really. Or, it could happen if a servo stalled because of radio EPA set too high, simply a faulty servo.

yea i tryed it on my old hitec 5955tg and it did it , i got a brand new 7955tg and still did it , so it was not a bad servo , but looks like you guys are on your way to fixing it :) for now ill just run the cap

Hello,
I have the same problem with a SAVOX SC-1258tg and I have to had a capacitor on my Spektrum receiver.

No more problem with the Capacitor

So basically if you're running a large servo, put in a glitch buster capacitor and you're fine.

Had no issues with mine on 4s in the Slash with a Futaba S3050 servo. ESC didn't even get warm running a 17.5 motor. (But my highest amp spike from the motor was a whole 64 Amps lol!)

I run a JR DS8711 in my Muggy with the MMM (same BEC as the MMP, according to Patrick) which puts out over 400 oz/in. of torque and the MMM's BEC handles it perfectly. I personally don't think there's anything wrong with their BEC.

Cool info patrick, it feels so great a manufacturer shares the "know how" technical detail with customer. I don't remember anyone else did that better than you.

but the bullet connectors for the 2200motors are 6mm and the bullet connectors on the MMP is 4mm, so you just soldered 4mm bullet connectors on the 2200 motor cables?

other question:
4mm = up to 75amps and 6mm is up to 6mm amps.
What does that difference do to the relation ESC - motor?

The CC 6.5mm bullet plugs are rated to ~200 amps. It is like putting a bigger pipe in your house to let more water in. It's possible to flow extra water through your smaller pipe but it will strain the system more, the larger pipe (bigger plugs) allow for more flow. Connectors aren't a huge deal with trucks, 5.5mm plugs are typically plenty for the motors and Deans can handle the batteries fine. In higher draw applications like a boat you really need larger connectors, I've seen Deans connectors literally melt together in a boat.

Also, smaller connectors (or lower current rated ones) simply have higher contact resistance. Higher resistance creates a voltage drop at high current, which makes less voltage available at the motor and also heats up the connector (v drop * current = power dissipated).

i just use the 6.5 bullets on my pro

Well overkill doesn't hurt.

Jeff

That does it. I'm putting 8MM plugs on my MMpro and run a neu motor in a dragster. :whip:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...p/DSCF4447.jpg

Lol the connectors are going to weigh more than the speed control. :na: I think you should just use the Anderson powerpole connectors, you know they make them in multipole now.

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-sb.html

Jeff

Coolbeans, I'll use a set in my pan car. I have to eek out every millivolt for my servo.

but how do you guys change the connectors on the ESC itself than I wonder?
fit the connecdtors on the Pro are 4mm, won't any connector that is bigger fit?

All you need to do is heat the connector up with an iron, the solder will melt, and then you can remove the plug & replace it with a larger one. Not difficult to work out at all. Only thing you need to do is add a little extra solder into the new connector before inserting the wire, then after its cooled down add the heatshrink tubing- heres a video for the hard of learning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9yY9Kk4bEA

You can stick 10mm bullets on 16guage wire if you so desire, it wont make the slightest bit of difference to how the esc or motor works- the reason why the MMpro uses 4mm bullets is because A) they're cheaper & B) larger bullets arent generally required given the size of motor and application the esc will be typically used in, I.E. a 1/10 stadium truck or 1/8 buggy. You've had all this explained to you atleast once or twice now, no need to keep asking about using bigger connectors, as at the end of the day its down to user descression; if you plan to use the esc in a setup that will pull a fair bit of current, then common sense dictates you should use larger bullets. Provided you dont do anything silly like use the MMPro in a 14lb MT with an XL motor and gear it to the moon, as CastleCreations have already stated what applications the esc is suited to I.E 1/10 STs and 1/8 buggies- the smaller cms36 motors use smaller plugs, so that makes life easier when connecting up the esc. If you want to use a larger motor like a ~1512 for example (ideal 1/8 buggy motor), then you will need to change the connectors to somethign more suitable.

5mm or dual 3.5mm plugs is the biggest I would go with the MMpro. But nothing beats a direct solder connection. I just wish the MMpro motor wires were a bit longer.

yeah okay but that movie shows how to solder it to a motor cables, but what I meant was how to solder bigger 6mm connectors to the MMPro wich has originally 4mm connectors...

if the ESC MMPro has prelocated space for 4mm connectors, how can a bigger connector be soldered on that prelocated space when that space is to small...do you know what I mean? :)

Don't worry about changing the connectors unless you upgrade the wires as well. What is being said is that there is no point unless you upgrad the wires. It would be like installing a large 3" (76mm) high flow muffler on a stock 1.5" (38mm) exhaust system, there is no point.

Jeff

I dont mean to be rude, but are you really trying to tell me that because the wires are coming off the esc and not the motor, that you cant work out how to change the connectors with EXACTLY THE SAME METHOD?!?

1. REMOVE 4MM PLUG
2. REPLACE WITH LARGER PLUG

It doesnt make single bit of difference where the wires are attached to.

Like I said before, and has been said to you by several other people (all with more patience than me evidently...), it doesnt matter what size the wire is, you can always use a bigger connector simply by removing the stock ones- you just have to use the same size male and female ones on the esc wires and motor wires so that they match up.

Or like other guys said, you dont even have to use connectors, just direct solder the wires together with a butt-joint or butt-joint connectors to make a more solid joint. IS NOT DIFFICULT TO FIGURE OUT, YOU ARE OVER THINKING THE 'PROBLEM'...


EDIT:

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/pictures/c...ba_max_pro.jpg

See the 3 wires coming from the esc that have the 4mm plugs on & that go to the motor? All you have to do is remove them, and solder on the larger plugs- I dont understand what you are talking about with regards to a lack of space? The plugs are not on the esc itself, they are on the ends of wires- there is no lack of space available to put on larger connectors- you just need a little extra solder in the connector before inserting the wire to take up any slack & ensure a solid joint; exactly as I said last time.

my bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so excuuuuuuuuuse me...no need to use capital letters, cause the way it looks is that you are from the traxxas board

for some reason I thought the plugs were soldered directly onto the Pro itself like on the MMM.................
http://holmeshobbies.com/images/P/mambamonster.jpg

That has to be the funniest exchange in a while :lol:

When you assume...

Ahhhhhh, I see! :lol:

Assumption is the mother of all f*ck ups :rofl:


Sorry about that, I just couldnt understand the issue about lack of space for bigger plugs- now it all makes perfect sense- carry on people, nothing to see here... :whistle:

lol :)
Steven Seagal fan huh? ;) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg4trPZFUwc

Yeah, but the original UnderSeige on the ship was sooooo much better... :yes: :lol: