CHC- dude, how did you put Mulchers on 40 series wheels? cutting the bead off? I got to say I wish they would make the mulcher in 40 series. I want some.

I have had HVMAXX and 14 cells, 9xl on 14 cells.

Too long to mount easily, I would need a mount that was extremly strong, even then it may flex and strip gears, and what do you upgrade to when you start tearing up 1/8 diffs?:027:

Nothing to show yet its all still pieces, I will post as soon as progress is made.

I would be satisfied with about 60 mph, I dont think I would actually go 60 mph often, I just want crazy acceleration whenever I lay into the throttle. Big power and speed is more important to me but I want to be able to put that power to the ground, thats why I chose the crt, less rolls wheelies and flips than the emaxx.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/images/large/ofn30774.jpg
are these the shafts you are talking about? These are the optional ones, they are alloy, I beleve the stock are steel, I am not certain. I may try to find them in titanium or get some made in tool steel if they are a problem.

The limit is batteries. You can have an awesome motor with cheap batteries and it still suck. 60 mph is not real bad to reach. Don't get me wrong it does take some power and money. At minimum I would run a xl. A 1950 would do better. I think the 22 series may be what you looking for. Consider a 2240 10t.

I am going to use lipos, 6 cell was the original plan I may go to 8 cell lipo if needed (space permiting). 2240 10t has 1480kv 22.2 volts would only take the motor to 32856 rpm probably 30000 rpm realistically, would 8 or 9t be better for 22.2 volts? Would a 1700kv 22 series on 22.2v pull too many amps do I need to go 10 turn and higher voltage if I want a 22 series motor?

Yeah those are the shafts,actually they look pretty strong,4mm and hard anodised,i thought they come stock,not sure.They should be fine really,though no transmission part is ever really safe with a 22 series around.:027:

Edit;going to 8s would only add about 200g and add 1cm ish to the pack height and bring the amps down.A 2240/11 or 12 on 8s would run 60mph with ease and run cool with long runtimes.i'd aim for between 35000 and 38000 max rpm.

Promod runs the 2240. I think he has like a12 turn with 8s lipo. I only have experence with the 2250. But the 2240 shouldn't be but so far behind the 2250. I wonder if it is more than i need. But then again I love raw power.

I am leaning towards the 2250 right now 5mm pinions are in stock right now and I ordered some; 1950 is a 4mm shaft. I am considering running 8 cell lipo although 6 is still more appealing to me. I hope the MGM 16024 is avalable soon so I can use it. I think I will mount the motor directly ontop of the spur with a L shaped motor plate attached where the brakes would have gone and attached to the chassis. I would also like to use a lehner motor mount like this
http://www.bk-electronics.com/catalo...rhalterung.jpg
at the back of the motor to keep the mount from flexing.
I will make a custom center diff brace.

I do not know which lipos to use I was thinking about Hyperion Polyquest "Lite Storm" rated 20C 74A continous I dont know if these are good enough, I really dont want to get the wrong ones and I dont know a lot about lipos. I would like some that have a built in lvc, and have balancing taps, I have no idea what charger to get either.

The 1950 comes with a 5mm shaft now,i have one.The other 19 series come with 4mm shaft i think unless you specify 1/8",my 1920 has a 4mm shaft.
You're right to support the rear of the motor,a must IMO with the heavier motors.You'll have to figure a way to adjust the height of the support for changing pinions.
My choice personally would be a 1950/10 or 11 on 8s.Same overall weight as a 2250 on 6s,but with more battery power available and lower current draw/longer runtimes.
If you go 22 series,2240 is overkill enough,the 2250 is excessive to say the least and the CRT is relatively light.

I am having a problem with spur gears with the 2250. I put a brand new one on it and it rolled 3 ft or 1meter. It tore all but 4 teeth off the spur. I am going to try some other spur gears now. I still have not got the cog straight but I will. The spur is not surviving now. The 2250 is down right a power house. I think the motor is going to spin if tires, rims or shafts do or not. It even spun the pinion on the motor shaft with a flat spot on it. Gustav is right on the 5mm shaft.

I am hoping with a lighter truck the gears will survive coolhand, my truck will be a lot lighter with lipos

I personally wouldn't make such a big step, from a mild power setup to real power setup, you need to know what speed you want to reach, and like Country says, 55-60 mph can be reached with a 1950. (which is quite a bit lighter as well)

I half agree, but I can buy a 2250 for a little bit more money now compared to upgrading and buying a 2250 after I have already bought a 1950. The weight is an issue though; I may use 8s lipo afterall in my mind it is 1950 vs 2250 on 8s lipo. I still need to decide which brand lipos to go with so I can estimate a rtr weight. The 22 series is more uncommon and that draws me to it as well. I will seriously consider your experienced advice.
Thanks

with eather motor it is going to be an awesome truck but if you have the money go with the 2250.

That is the reason I suggested a 2240. It is the 22 sereis but a touch shorter. You can run it on 8s lipo to. Well just get a video of this thing.

Yeah, there are steps between the 1950 and the 2250.

You need to know yourself, a 2250 IS big AND powerfull, that is the reason for me taking one, and i am used to a plettenberg bigmaxximum with 16 cells and a 7XL on 16.

Tue, the step in money isn't too big, but it just eats/abuses your drivetrain like nothing else. with power comes extra costs. as simple as that.

You need to consider what you want. it's up to you from here i guess.

Would the 2250 10 turn work well on 8s lipo it is 1184kv or would it be better to go with a little hotter wind? I guess the better question is where is the 2250's rpm sweet spot that I should shoot for?

aiming for the 65-70 mph?

I suppose, I want the limit to be my finger, not the truck.

I am strongly considering the lehner 2250 10Turn to use 8s lipo and 20/51 gearing, but the main reason I am considering the 10 turn is that I know someone who has one local and I can be up an running sooner, whereas I would rather go with a 8 turn if I didnt have to wait 3-4 weeks to get it, anyone know if mike can get one fast, like a week or so, from lehner?

i think i would go for the 10 turn. unless the kv of the 8 is only like 1200 rpms per volt...

I definately wouldn't use the 8 turn on 8s,too many revs,the 10 turn is much more ideal,that's the turn i'd get for 8s.

I am going with the 2240 10 turn with 8s lipo with 20/51 gearing projected speed of over 75 mph :dft002: , I will probably bash around with 16/51 still over 60 mph capability :028: Now I am waiting for adaptors for my 51 tooth spur, motor mount, motor, mgm 16024, lipos, and me to get the truck put together. I may get a custom chassis plate made of titanium I gotta see how much that would cost though, maybe get me some carbon fiber shock towers, waiting on my CrowdPleazer 2 body to get painted. I got some 40 series sand paw tires for the sand dunes, I am hoping belted/corded tires come out soon until then duct tape will be my friend.

my guess is that the topspeed of that setup is 60-65 mph.

Fast enough!

wise choice, that 2240 is up to something good for sure!

I calculated that the system can provide 2190 W continous over 3800 peak with the hyperion lipos I plan to use so I would agree 60-65mph based on the continous rating but if the system can generate 3800 peak watts then I would think I could go quite a bit faster.

I will not get a titanium chassis, I got the quote back and its over $500 :002:

EDIT
If they are avalable when my motor comes in I will use "CPKOK4800-20C-4S-DNS NEW! Cell Pro Kokam 4800 mAh 4 Cell Pack with DNS Connector (20C), size and weight TBD $254.95" Lipos
4800 mAh and 20C AWESOME!!!

Any update on this one? or is it still 'work in progress'

very interested to see the finish thing....:cool:

I need to get my motormount built, then its finished, the machine shop at work is too busy to do side projects, I need to find someone with a mill.

If you have a design drawed up. You may want to chat with mike. He may be able to hook you up on it.

I am also working on an electric crt, as far as the system i have is the warrior12020 and the wanderer 7xl. i will be using two 7.4 lipos, is the crt going to overheat the bl system? fans will be used of course. i am not looking for insane speed maybe 40-45 but plenty of bottom end. thanks

Cool another bl crt it sounds like a good setup you may also consider using a single 4s or 5s lipo pack and putting the lipo pack on one side of the truck and and the motor on the other mounted low to the chassis

Me too, after driving a smelly one at my track I was smitten.
I should have the truck next week,
what do you think about the brake set up, is it best to keep the front/rear separate, or just let the motor do it and bin the mechanical brakes?

A little off topic but I was just wondering about how a torque sensing (tor-sen) centre diff would behave with controller brakes,could it be a killer break setup,sending braking torque to the loaded axle or would it have the opposite effect and suck.

Cabking,i'm assuming,though i've never tried it, that with an open or std viscous diff that it would lock the rears as the rear tyres unload.That would be good or bad depending on your point of view/driving style.I was always taught 'off the brake and turn' and 'balanced drift-balanced throttle' so i wouldn't want to setup a car just for trail braking.

The weight oil you have in the diff has a big effect on the brake. i had 10K in mine and it did ok. I ran all motor brake.

Gustav, the theory sounds right, and if it worked it would be a killer, you could have a self adjusting brake bias.

As It comes with an open diff in the kit, I'll work with that and try a few weights.

I would buy a center torsen if the spur adapter mike made me would fit to it, I have never scene one in person if it uses the same spur gear as stock then the adapter would fit, but it looks like it comes with the spur gear already attached, I dont think I want to use a steel spur gear, although it may be a good idea with the 2240 if I can find a super hard pinion.

Mike started selling hardened pinions if thats the route your gonna go although I would stick with plastic.

nl12, your adapter plate wont fit a torsen diff. But actually it would be very easy to make an adapter for an (ofna) torsen, because the piece which holds the bearing and the output shaft is not part of the spur. You would only need to make a disc with a big hole in the center and 6 small holes around (the ofna torsen uses only 2 screws to attach the spur to the diff)

I will set it up without a torsen, hopefully I will get it running next week, Mike is helping me out on the motor mount. I am getting some titanium turnbuckles, King Headz parts, aluminum arm holders, shock parts, and a few other things today just so I can play with the truck, I like taking it apart and putting it back together :027: I would rather be driving it though