Most definitely. 44,400 rpm's and a fast FDR sounds like a high speed running rig. The standard flux f/r diff ratio is 3.3 and the bulletproof is 3.22 so they are relatively high speed compared to Truggy(4.3).
In order to run a CD would would need a lower KV motor or big spur/little pinions, which tend to wear out faster. Even on 6s with that motor, you would need about a 15/51 pinion spur combo and still push 50+ mph.

Mmms, you'd need a different pinion for the front and rear diff. Instead of a 13 tooth pinion, you'd want to use a 10 tooth pinion. This would give you the same gear ratio with a center diff as a truggy. Or if using the bulletproof diffs, you'd need to run a 7 tooth pinion instead of 9 which would give you a 4.14 ratio so you'd need like a 47 to 52 tooth spur and a 11 or 15 or so pinion.

Basically you'd need someone to machine a replacement for parts #86031 or #102246. Or try and replace the diffs with something else. What is the ratio of the Cen diffs?

Uuug, more comlpications
Maybe getting the Flux trans to work is best then.
Thank you for the explinations on the gearing aspect gentlemen.

The cen also has a 9t pinion. Be happy they have the BP diffs now, as the CENs are 26/9 (2.89)

On my heavy xl, I have a 1050 kv 1521 on 8s. FDR is 17.1. That's only 40ish, but I'm still pulling enuf amps to make the esc quite warm (90A.) The motor can take more power tho.

This sound s like a very impressive set up Mr. Finn, could I burden you for some pictures or a link pleeze ? Very curious of your ESC choice .

Sure Mr Nutz ;)

Just down a bit is my 4ws thread. I didn't build the truck for super high speed, I just wanted a big, powerful ground pounding MT. I'm pretty happy with it, tho I haven't got to drive it since Thanksgiving due to life and kids getting in the way.
All I have time for now is harassing Harold and posting up in conspiracy threads.

Warmer weather approaches, so I'll have to think of the next step. I'd really like to get a slipperential in there, just so many PITAs to do so. Initially I sat and stared at it for a month figuring out how I can get a 15 series inside the XL tvps and/or make a CD mount. Eventually I said F it and just got the Kershaw mount. Not very elegant, but great for what I wanted to do (ie 4WS)

BTW, here is another thread talking about mounts. Linc made his own mount for a 36mm motor and it turned out well. He mounted it very low as well. Obviously a 44+mm motor will have to be mounted higher, which will also push it out sideways to mesh, and the extra width will tickle the TVPs. You may get it within a few rch's if you match the motor just right.

I'm curious about these 5T kits, it seems they are marketed to get people to use existing electronics (albeit more volts) in them, last I checked neither the Savage Flux or E-Revo Brushless were known for being reliable from an electronics standpoint, the MMM speedy still does seem to like to become a flaming pile of molten plastic a little too easily. Heck even on a 50f day outside on my box stock Flux with standard tyres and gears the ESC fan seems to be on more than it is off and that was running 4s Polyquest Enerland 5100mah 30C lipos. Is this project well advised while we don't have "reliable" 1/8th ESC's about or are the Tekins more reliable than the Castles? Obviously with the MMM still having a 2-3 week wait time on repairs / replacement it's still an ongoing issue.

Your point? Don't do it if you don't think its worthwhile.

I have had a few failures myself but I beleive most failures are from user errors.

I cannot believe everyone let the "stabbing in the dark" quote go.... Tssk, you are all slipping in my absence...

As for Finn being all knowing, well he is a legend in his own mind, that has to count for something... Right?

And FDR was a president, no idea what that has to do with tiny cars, maybe FDR was a closet fool like Harold?

Well, I have had good success with the MMM, but I chalk that up to knowing what I am doing with brushless electric. How anyone expects to have success with anything while maintaining their dumbass ways always makes me laugh.

Back to the point here. I do not think CD is a good idea, you really need the reduction offered by the trans. This beastie will be heavy, and the longer wheelbase will place more load on the motor and esc as the traction will be higher. With the 1515 motor I would think 6s lipo and gearing for 40mph would be the best bet. Using a small spur, such as the 43t and the appropriate pinion (which should be less than 20t) you may have success getting a neu motor down below and to the side of the spur (like I did in that like someone already posted).

Now I think that hpi offers a different trans gearing option that basically replicates the 2nd gear gearing that the nitro 2sp uses. The original flux was basically locked in 1st gear, and that required the larger pinions and smaller spur to get the FDR (paying attention bondopants?) -final drive ratio- where it needs to be. Good idea on some levels, as the closer the pinion gets to the spur in size the less wear you get on the pinion.

My plan with the 5th scale savage (I have hpi 5t tvps here...) will be to use the GH al bulks, with std buggy ratio gears, and the std flux trans. I may have to remake the tvps, or maybe just 1 as I would like to use the flux motor mount, as it fits the smooth can 15 series neus I have. Either a 1521 or a 1527, I have both.

Still wondering if the 1521 2y on 10s lipo will do... I would really like to go up to 12s, but I only have a 10s capable car esc, and would prefer not to go with mech brakes. I do have a 1717 motor, and a good 6s lipo but I again wonder if the MMM will keep up.

Using buggy ratio diffs, flux tranny and 43/20 gearing the 1521 2y on 12s will give me right at 40mph with 6" tall tires. I may run taller tires, not sure yet. My plan was to use moab xl tires, sectioned to fit std mt rims. Which gives a little over 6".

Or I could go with the 1527 2y, leave a 2sp trans in there and run 10s lipo. Mech brakes would be a must, and I would have to can reverse (or really get freaky with the m11 programming...). No idea what to do, a good CC 12s capable car esc with big numbers would be handy, although I do not see a 1527 2y pulling much more than 60 amps. 60amps at 12s is 3.5hp...

Interesting information. Only one note, the standard Savage diffs are the same ratio as standard buggy diffs. :) If you were able to swap out and use truggy diffs then you could go with the center diff but yeah without going to lower ratio diffs, I don't think you can go with a center diff.

Oh and Moabs are more like 6.9" diameter. And the XL version are 7.3" (6.9" according to tower, but Brian's speed calc has them at 7.3"). Both which are bigger than the 6.88 (by a hair) badlands for the Baja interestingly enough. Pro-Line Trenchers for the 5T are 7.55" according to Tower.

Posted some pictures of my battery tray holder mount.

I don't see any pictures of the battery tray holder??

Posted in the gallery that was mentioned in the original post.

A wooden Savage?!

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/S4...0/IMG_4829.JPG

Well maybe not. It is a wooden mockup of a 22.4" front mounted tranny bolted up. Was almost perfect, however tranny mount needs to go back by about 1mm. Now just to find someone who has better metal skills than I do to do it. :)

Well, I got the 5T conversion finished (for now). Updated the album (http://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodo...ux5BConversion) but here is a shot of the "finished" project.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/S7...0/IMG_4924.JPG

TCS Crawlers 5T TVP Conversion.
ProLine Badlands on Maximizers (for now).
2200kV Tork + Mamba Monster ESC.
5S 5800 Zippy Flightmax batteries.
Custom internal battery mount.
Ofna buggy wing attached to the rear body mount.

Weighs in at 15.8lbs fully loaded. Not too bad considering I think in nitro format it was around 12 or 13lbs.

It ended up being more of a 4WD buggy! And I've decided that going to the 7.5" diameter 5T wheels are probably more than the Savage 8th scale driveline can handle, I'll probably go with the buggy tires which are no bigger than the Big Joes I've run on the nitro savage. Not to mention it saves having to buy a $150 body!

Looking towards the buggy tires, I'm probably going to drop to a Castle-Neu 1600kV. This will of course mean grinding out the motor mounts and will means some material removal on the TVPs to let it fit.

This would look cool with some LST shocks.

http://rcdriver.com/images/toc/RC-Dr...y-10-Cover.jpg

I will also put a 1520 in my XL Flux. Any issues running the Big Joes?

Nice hadn't seen that may need to go pick up a copy. :)

And no, if I am going to change out, it'll be to Baja shocks.

Thye Baja shocks are much longer than the Flux shots.

I know. :)

Hmm, Not saying it can't be done but it will be a challange to get them to work well. I would love to see pictures when the mod is complete !

Check out rc-universe, the HPI Monster Truck section, there were a few folks that had done it over there.

Sounds cool and I'd like to see them. I'd rather wait for yours then search through that huge forum.

Lazy git :lol:

Heres a good how-to:

http://www.rccoh.com/rc.how-to/savage.5b.shockmod.html

Yeah I've seen that before...

Anywhere he's a shot of one design for using a center diff with standard truggy motor mounts. Does require custom dogbones...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/S7...ge5B.2.png.jpg

Have another one that I've working on that utilizes the TCS Crawlers 12" dogbone that I have, and another one that uses Mike's universal motor mount. Only thing with the latter is that it raises the CoG but it does fit within the TVPs much easier!

Thanks for pointing out that mag... picked it up; not very detailed writeup, but still gave me a few ideas!

That was interesting Neil, Thank You
If I consider this there are several things I'd do a bit different tho.

Mr. Lazy

OBTW, whats a "GIT"

There is more detail on the rcdriver forum and you can chat with David

What might you approach differently Bondonutz? Always good to have different insights.

Mmms... may have to go poke a head in there. Couple of things I did like:

The Baja body, does give it a bit more complete look. Wasn't going to put the Flux battery boxes on as mine battery is inboard, so I'll have to get creative.

The lexan shield. Would probably have holes and use some zipties to tie it to the support posts. Dunno will have to see about that.

Was also planning to put a lexan 'top' on mine, just haven't gotten around to it.

I honestly don't have much to add just yet, only ideas and what I certainly will do differently

I have to build my FLM tranny forward kit first and see how happy I am w/it.
If I elect to keep the format I will consider LST shocks or possibly the 5B jobbers. I'm not certain that the 5b shocks are worth all the extra work and weight, let alone another 100.00 for them when I have new and paid for LST aluminum shocks in a drawer.

If I go with the DesertBoy 1/5 chassis then the 5b shocks would be the cats meow !

Either way aluminum shock towers and plastic bulks don't mix well. So FLM or someone elses bulks would be a better idea I beleive.

No way in hell will I buy FlexTek arms so I have to decide what I'd do about that ?

I had a few smaller ideas in mind but I don't know about the feasability because I have have yet to pull the first screw from my Flux yet.

Yeah, I've had same ideas and thoughts. I'd go with the DB 1/5 chassis over the TCS Crawlers one if I was to do it again. However, thats only if you don't plan to run the 5T body as its like an inch to short for a "perfect" fit. I liked the buggy look that the creation ended up with and 125+ for a body was gnawing at me.

Start pulling! Its fun! When its together, pull it apart again! Mine started life as a used Savage X SS nitro, then became a Savage XL with the K4.6 engine, then a Savage XL with LRP28/30 engines, and now its a 1/5th scale Flux. Soon I'll have enough parts for at least one more Savage, probably back to having a nitro brother.

Damn hobby! :)

I like the look of the TCS chassis but the DB chassis will allow a much bigger motor.
I will be running a 1527 or 1717 on 6s.

Curious to how the 1527 will fit in FML chassis ?
I'm in the imddle of remodeling my house so RC projects have to wait a couple weeks. :no:

Wanna come paint my kitchen after you are done?! :)

Yeah, ain't no way a 1527 is gonna fit! CN 1520 will, you'd have to cut out some of the chassis. Same with 1717. But thats also a larger diameter engine, might have issues. Why not just go with the 1520? Only 20kV.

I'm planning on running the 2200kV on 5S til it pukes. Then probably try a 1512 as that will drop in pretty ok. For my center diff I'm looking at doing either the 1512 or 1520, but think the latter really needs some 43/10 diffs for better gear reduction.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=git :lol:

Dam, I thought it was a term of endearment ? :no:

Since it was asked in another thread, thought I'd just repost it here...

The space that can be used to hold batteries internally has the following dimensions:

73.86mm wide.
64.9mm deep.
209.28mm length.

Here is an updated shot of the conversion. Switched to the Baja 5B wing; the mounting holes are a prefect fit for the Savage body mounts.

Also are the ProLine Bowtie front/rear Baja 5B tires and wheels. Currently am using ProLine 23mm hex adapters wrapped with metal tape until snug in the wheels. If you go this route (24mm hex adapters from HPI are still backordered) you need some M5 lock nuts (HPI #Z682 lock nuts the 14mm hexes work great; I used some flanged M5 lock nuts I had laying around from Traxxas) to secure the adapter onto the axle.

Total weight fully loaded is now 16.4lbs.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/S8...0/IMG_4928.JPG

See my gallery for some more shots.

Q, 16.4 lbs with a single 6s 5000mah lipo ?

16.4oz with Zippy Flightmax 5S 30c 5800MaH (http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9934). The 5800MaH 30C 6S (http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9935) and are only about 62g (2.19oz).

Might go with 2 of these http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=10097 next time, only 5000MaH 3S, but 35C instead of 30C.